370 cid and 232/234 113+0, 12:1 SCR ~ 8.7 DCR, mostly race setup and doing pretty good with juice.
The right combo is the way to go, bigger not always better.

 

Great thread.
I should just make my customers read this before they order their cams.

I try and explain to most people, that most of those big cam numbers people are throwing around, are just way too big for the street.

We just got off the dyno(Mustang) with an LS1 with ported heads, 90mm-TB and JBA headers. We first ran my 226/226 .578"/.578" on a 111/115.
It made 422hp@6,200rpm and 366lbs@5,100rpm.
We then swithched to my 218/222 .578"/.578" on a 111/115.
It made 415hp@6,200rpm amd 376lbs@4,900rpm.
Even though it lost 7hp at peak power, the average HP over the curve(3,700-6,600rpm) was up 6hp. The torque was not only up 10lbs at peak, but it was up as much as 28lbs at 3,500rpm.

In this application, the smaller cam would not only be more streetable, it would be faster in the 1/4 mile too.

 

One reason I went with the cam I have. I don't care about peak numbers, drive ability plus good usable power is what it's all about for me.

 

Now I don't feel so bad about my Cartek 2X cam. Just a little 224/228 on a 114. It has been proven to work really well with ported stock heads, which is exactly what I have. A combo indentical to mine went consistant 11.0s in a local full weight (3,600+ with driver) F body.

 

My first cam was a TR 224/224 .563/.563 on a 114 and it is a great daily driver. I am running it with PP stage 2 heads with the 225 runners.

I am in the process of changing my setup to AFR heads and a custom cam (let's just say bigger, may not be better but we won't know until we try). I would love to leave my 224 cam and compare the #s with each set of heads and then with each cam but I don't have that kind of time or money.

 

Are there any real differences between a TR224 and TSPs 224R in power?

I know the TSP cam is ground on XER Lobes and have a higher lift, but everyone seems to swear by the TR224.

 

update- i been driving around for the past few days with the 228 232 cam and wow. this cam is awesum. no bucking-surging any where(parking lots, highway in 6th gear, whatever). instant power for the bottom of the rev range all the way to WOT. im extremly happyand the sound??? it sounds bad ***. chops like a ****

 

Ms3 Baby!

Drives Like ****, Pulls Like Hell!

 

But Really With A Good Tune And A Big Stall My Ms3 Is Very Streetable, It Took A Long While But No More Surgung Or Bucking

 

TR230 is for the person who wants a little extra out of a 224 grind, while still retaining 224-ish driveability! Always did me right, perfect for stock heads.

 

What'd you put down in your old 2k car with the TR230??

-J

 

Cam Only I did 404/392... never did a dyno after the build, don't ask about track time, that's my fault Here's a little blast from the past:

 

What do you guys think of this artice?
http://www.compcams.com/Community/Ar...ID=-2026144213

It says to pick LSA first. According to that chart, 107 is ideal for a 346 LS1.

Since the 224/224 112 or 114 is such a proven street cam, what about one on a 110?

So the specs would be 224/224 110 106.
Stock LS1 heads with a 0.040 cosmetic gasket will give a 10.67/8.64 SCR/DCR. My car is 99% street. Other mods will be 3600 verter, LTs, LS6 intake, ported TB, Magnaflow catback with a cutout(mostly for track). I'd like to shift before 6500 on my stock 2000 bottom end with 100k miles on it. Would this be easy to tune for a smooth idle? I don't mind raising it. I really don't care about peak dyno numbers. Want a lot of usable power. Thanks for the help.

 

Holy hell I love that torque curve! Thanks for the sheet.

-J

 

interesting artical, the one thing I question is how heads effect the theory. Whether a sbc with camalbacks w/2.02 intake flowing 200 cfm on a good day, vortec w/2.02 intake flowing 240cfm or ported ls1 w/2.02 intake flowing 300cfm all use the same cam??????? The heads are where the hp per $ is.

The theory of a smaller cam is in the artical, don't over cam. Still not sure on exhaust vs backpressure either.

I also think there is a realistic max tq for a cube size, after that its rpm and breathing.

 

That is the Kind of torque curve I want!!!!

 

I used to be one of those kids. After researching on this lovely site, I found out that you don't need such a big cam for that "sound"

Well put!

Andy

 

I DUNNO WHY YOU ALL **** ON BIG CAMS.. YEA I WILL AGREE ALOT OF FOLKS MISCHOOSE THEIR APPLICATION AND ARNT HAPPY BUT TO GO AS FAR AND SAY A BIG CAM WONT BE BETTER FOR BIG POWER IS KINDA STRECHING IT....

YEA WE'VE ALL SEEN PATRICKS SUPER COOL NUMBERS WITH HIS EXTREAMLY WELL THOUGHT SETUP THAT HAS TAKEN EVERY ASSURANCE TO ENSURE THE BEST NUMBERS FOR THAT SIZED CAM BUT AT THE SAME TIME WE'VE ALSO SEEN PLENTY OF FOLKS MAKEING ALOT ******* NUMBERS WITH THE SIMLAR SETUPS


AFTER READING THIS THRAD I ACTUALLY DUG OUT MY DYNO SHEET AND IT DOSENT LOOK LIKE MT EVEREST YEA I WIND MY MOTOR TO 6800 RPMS BUT THATS WHY I THOUGHT WELL ENOUGH TO BUY A 4000 STALL FOR THAT SIZED CAM.. FURTHERMORE, ALL JOKEING ASIDE MY CAR DOES RUN PRETTY DAM WELL WITH NO BUCKING AND SURGING OR STALLING (900 RPM IDLE)

FINALLY, I ALREADY KNOW I LOST THIS ARGUMENT BECAUSE ANYBODY SHORT OF A MOD OR A SPONCER CANT EVEN ARGUE WITH THE SACRED WORDS OF THOSE WHO HAVE POSTED ALREADY, BUT TO CLOSE I GUESS I CAN SAY THAT EVERYBODY TOLD ME ALOMNG THE WAY "O THAT CAM IS TOO BIG" OR "O THAT CONVERTER IS TOO BIG" YET WHEN WE GO OUT TO RACE MY 3800 LB CAR SEEMS TO HAVE NO PROBLEM TAKEING THEM DOWN... ALSO IVE SEEN QUITE A FEW DYNOS LOCALLY OF SIMILAR SETUPS WHERE 347'S WITH AFR HEADS PORT MATCHING ECT.. PUT DOWN LESS POWER WITH THEIR 22x DURATION CAMS THAN MY MS3 CAMED CAR WITH THE SO CALLED "TQ LESS" PRC 5.3L HEADS AND A STOCK BOTTOM END....

MOST EVERY "PROFESSIONAL" WHO HAS SEEN THE CAR WAS VERY IMPRESSED WITH THE POWER THE CAR MADE AND THE DRIVEABLITY.. AND FOR THIS, ALL I HAD TO DO WAS LISEN EAXCTLY TO WHAT TSP TOLD ME TO DO....

IN THE END, I THINK 75% OF THE COMPLAINTS WITH AGRESSIVE PERFORMANCE PARTS COME FROM IMPROPER INSTLATION AND CRAPPY TUNES.

 

I love how people with stalled auto's brag about big cams without cam surge, put that cam in a 6-spd and you'll find out real quick what cam surge is.

 

AND TO YOUR POINT THAT COULD BE EXACTLY WHAT IM TALKING ABOUT WHEN I SAY "HAVING A MISMATCHED PARTS"

FURTHERMORE YOU GO TO REMEMBER CAMS DONT JUST SURGE ON THEIR OWN, THEY ARE SURGING BECAUSE OF AN OVER CORRECTION IN YOUR PCM.. MOST OF THIS CAN BE SOLVED WITH A WELL THOUGHT OUT TUNE