Beau@SDPC

iTrader: (14)

On that acrylic, use tape on both sides, it will help you stay in a straight line and help keep the piece from cracking too bad.

white84z

iTrader: (1)

you can also clamp it in between 2 pieces of plywood. itll end up with a nice clean cut.

Duffster

iTrader: (103)

If you use a high speed sander on the acrylic, it will melt and kinda foam up without cracking it. Once the 'foam' has cooled, it solidifies and will snap off again, without cracking or snapping the work you've done. You can do round edges (inside and out) with this method.

unknown pontiac

3 years bro. My was broke for a year. I thought I never get it fixed. I want to see your car run.

Busy Mopper

iTrader: (4)

Sorry to hear bro!

chicagoboostin

iTrader: (4)

I just went though this whole thread....and the cars not done yet. GOD DAMMIT. I understand though. God speed my friend.

Beaflag VonRathburg

iTrader: (176)

I've been really busy lately and haven't had time to mess with the car at all. I've been working a really weird schedule and I had to help my brother move on the one day I could have worked on it. The parts I've ordered have been trickling in though. I have received my 200amp fuse, fuse holder, digital calipers, and the last of the 1.7 crane rockers so I now have a full set of 16, along with 8 extra 1.8s.

I am waiting on a few orders that I need to make some calls on as those items are kind of holding me up on assembling the engine. Hopefully, I can get that done tomorrow. I do have more work than I can complete right now with rewiring everything, but I would like to have the parts. Having the engine parts would give me something less time consuming to do that I could work on in short intervals.

John, white84z, and Duffster I'll try out a combination of those methods next time I get to work on the car. I was thinking at the time about using my dad's dremel tool, but I couldn't find it and I was running out of time. I think that would be easier trying to get small amounts of material off of the edges. I think I am going to cut the thing down a lot and try to set it lower in the car. I need to measure the passenger side and see if I can make them relatively even. That way one side isn't 6'' up and the other only 3''.

Unknown pontiac, Busy Mopper, and chicagoboostin yes, it has been over three years and it still isn't running. I've gone through a lot of things in life as well as changing my mind on the car. If I hadn't of lost my old job I would probably be darn close to firing up a solid roller, all pro headed, 408, 2 stage nitrous engine. A lot of things I didn't really have a lot of control over, but that's life and it shouldn't be too much longer.

Since I really started working on it a month and a half ago I've made a lot of progress. I should have a little time tomorrow night after my class and on Thursday to get back to working on the fuse and battery covers.

Duffster

iTrader: (103)

almost 3 weeks. . . . update?

Beaflag VonRathburg

iTrader: (176)

I've been really busy and haven't had much time to do any work on this car. I've been trying to fix a lot of things around my house and on my 95 to make my life easier. I've made the decision to part out everything I've been saving for my 93, sell that car, change my mind a little more once again, and use all of the money from that to finish this up.

Here is the new giant 39 item parts for sale thread. https://ls1tech.com/forums/parts-cla...tion-sale.html

My 93 will be listed here shortly as a rolling chassis. Support the build and get some awesome parts at a good price.

Duffster

iTrader: (103)

at least we got an update... been sitting here waiting...

Beaflag VonRathburg

iTrader: (176)

I wish it was more of an interesting one. I've got a new list that will make putting the engine together way easier, cheaper, and hint towards something coming a little further down the road. I've got it all priced out and if I can sell most of the stuff in the link above it will get me the whole car running minus one piece. Not to mention give me a ton of needed space, extra time, and just make my life easier not having to deal with it all.

98PurpleT/A

iTrader: (16)

Once I get things out with my car I may take those spindles off your hands.

Beaflag VonRathburg

iTrader: (176)

^ Sounds good to me. You should be getting there soon. I checked out your thread. All it seems that's left to do is deal with that knock sensor issue and get the tune done. I'm still not even close to firing anything.

Beaflag VonRathburg

iTrader: (176)

I haven't been feeling too motivated to work on the car, but I decided to take somethings out of my room and down to the garage. While down there I figured I would finally get the measurements for my Redline shift boot to be made that I had ordered around the beginning of May. The problem was I had been waiting for my straight shifter stick from Speed Inc. for about two months. Even after I was told it was shipped it took around 13-14 days to get here... I'll leave it at that. At least I got it though.

Since my car got pillaged and I didn't have a shifter on it I just dropped the new one in and went to work. I tighteneded down the four bolts and started trying to go through the gears. I figured that I had it in neutral because I could get 1, 2, 3, 4, 5, and 6 easily. The problem is that I don't think it is actually going into reverse. Here are a few pictures to help illustrate what I'm talking about.

Here is what I started with. I believe this to be neutral, but like I said I'm not 100% sure if I moved it or anything:


Now, here is where my problem arrises. This is the car in fifth gear.


Now, here is the car in what might be reverse:


It looks pretty much exactly the same. I can also take the shifter straight down and put it in sixth gear. Which, if I remember correctly I should not be able to do, but it has been a really long time since I drove my car. Sixth gear:


On the bright side it appears I won't be punching my CD player any longer trying to shift into third gear like I would with my B&M shifter. The downside is that I can't get the damn thing into reverse. I have an idea on jacking up the rear end of the car. If it is in reverse the wheels should only roll backwards unless I am confused. I could use some assistance with this.

Thoughts?

redbird555

iTrader: (14)

If iirc when driving by two buddies m6 cars they have a reverse lockout solenoid which prevents you from accessing reverse gear unless you have the clutch in and the key on. When you put the shifter over there it feels locked out of the gear then after a second of holding it there the solenoid will open and u can put it into reverse. key and clutch on and in providing...

Beaflag VonRathburg

iTrader: (176)

Ahh... A simple error then. I didn't have the key powered on. I was pushing the clutch in, but I have to hook up my battery to turn the key on. I leave it unhooked so it doesn't drain down. I have to hook the charger up to it after a while so I can keep working. I'll do that tonight and report back tomorrow.

Beaflag VonRathburg

iTrader: (176)

I haven't been able to mess with checking out the reverse lockout solenoid yet because my battery is dead once again. I do have it on the charger now though and am giving it a little time to get some juice in it. I plan on messing with the car once again tonight and as much as I can tomorrow. I figured last night that I should get working on it once again and actually suprised myself with how much I got done. It gave me some motivation to get to the grindstone once again.

I knew my battery was dead so I decided to pick up on working on cleaning up the engine bay. I started by working on finishing my driver's side fuse panel relocation cover piece. My dad let me borrow his Dremel tool a while ago to work on something around the house and I figured that if I used one of the metal cutting disk on the acrylic that it would pretty much mow right through it. I was right and slowly started carving down the large piece I had to fit. I found that was taking way too long cutting it down .25-.50 of an inch at a time so I decided to make a new cardboard template and just cut it once.

Template:


With the template made I went to work on cutting it out of the piece I had been trimming on. In about two minutes I had an almost perfect cover:

I cleaned it up a little after this and it looks damn good. I plan on painting them MTM to blend in with everything else. I also did some measuring and found that my future plans should work out exactly how I want them.

The next thing I started on was removing the factory hold down for the fuse boxes. I figured that if I moved the fuses why leave it there. It has a couple pain in the *** spot welds holding it in.

I got to cutting them out with the same metal cutting disk on the dremel I used to cut the acrylic.

Gone:

I plan on sandind down the rough spots and painting them.

After I got all of that stuff out of the way I decided to reroute the hood latch. I couldn't get the kick panel off without being able to move my seat or remove it. I made the decision to undo it at the latch instead as it would be easier. Once I got it undone I found a spot in the inner metal where there was already a slight gap. I found that I would only have to open it up about a quarter inch to fit the largest part of the hood latch cable through it. I used a metal carbide tool on the dremel and slowly made the hole just large enough to fit the cable through:

While I was doing this a piece of the dremel tool towards the front decided to eject off of the dremel and land right next to the fender vents. I had to take the inner wheel liner off to get it out and found a million leaves in there. I'm going to have to vacuum them out later.

I then flipped the factory hold down over so that it faced down and ran it throug the inner fender area.


Once it was through I just crammed the cable back towards the hood latch, reattached it, and made sure it worked. Here's how it sits right now:

Once it is all cleaned up it should look pretty darn good. I plan on working on the passenger side tonight.

EDIT: I also forgot that a few days ago I bought a new transmission that will be getting overhauled for some big power soon. I'm just waiting for the guy to ship it now. I'll post some pictures once it gets here. It's a pretty neat piece and something different than the usual viper main shaft builds.

Beaflag VonRathburg

iTrader: (176)

I left my battery on the charger for about five hours yesterday so that when I got home it would be close to fully charged. Come to find out that even after five hours on the charger it was only around 70-72% charged. Either way it was enough battery power for me to hook it up and finally be able to get my shifter measurements. I lugged my center console back into its place. I have to say that it is a rather long object to be spinning around inside of a small car with a person sitting in the driver seat. I managed to get it in after pinning my leg between the steering wheel and the console a couple times. I had to double check that it was in the right spot after I got it in because the shifter was really offset to the passenger side. I wasn’t sure if I had everything in there right, but finally decided that’s where it went.

Odd offset:


With the key in, power on, and the clutch pushed in I finally managed to get the damn thing in reverse.


I won’t lie and say that it went right in. I actually started to get mad because I still wasn’t able to get it to go into reverse. I finally got it on about the fifth try. I guess my shifting skills are just super rusty.

With the shifter in reverse I finally managed to get the measurements that I was supposed to give Maciek at Redline Goods when I ordered my shift boot on 5-27-10. I ordered the shifter boot about half an hour after I ordered the shifter and short stick online from Speed Inc. I was informed by Maciek the next morning that he would need specific measurements to make the shift boot. I told him that I didn’t have the shifter yet, but that the shifters were on back order from Speed Inc. and whenever I got it I would mock everything up and get him the information.

I got the shifter and short stick in on 6-9-10. Unfortunately, I received the angled short stick when I wanted the straight one. There wasn’t a spot on the order form when I ordered it and I didn’t mention anything about it so I guess they just sent me what they had in stock. I was also waiting on some parts from my original order that I placed on 5-13-10 so I decided to give them a call. The guy was really nice and told me that my parts I was waiting on arrived the day before and that they were shipping everything out today. He also told me that he would exchange the shifter stick for me. I shipped the shifter stick out and it was received 6-12-10. Then, as time went on I got to deal with a bunch of mixed up orders, shipping parts to the wrong address, and other crap that I would have preferred not to have had to deal with. Everything eventually got here after many phone calls and emails. This included my straight shifter stick which was on backorder and arrived on 8-30-10 over two months after I sent back the angled one. The other some what amusing thing is that I was told that it, “shipped USPS” the 13th yet I didn’t receive it until the 30th. * Keep this in mind*

After getting all of the shifter measurements I went upstairs, found some extra cardboard, and started making a template for the passenger side. This one was certainly more difficult and time consuming to make. I had to make a few decisions about how I wanted things to fit and if I wanted to keep the stock coolant overflow tank. I decided to keep it to avoid spending more money and worked around it.

Here’s the template:


After I finished the template I used my fancy pink highlighter to trace out the template and got to cutting. I used the same metal cutting wheel on the dremel. This side was more involved than the other, but it still worked well aside from spitting hot acrylic shards all over the left side of my body.

Trimmed up:



I’m going to smooth the edges out to make it look a little cleaner.

I took a complete engine bay photo too just to get an idea of how the whole thing is going to turn out.

I’m more likely than not going to raise the passenger side cover to be the same height as the driver’s side one. I realized that it is a little lower and I don’t want it to look odd. I think that the engine bay will look really good once all of the dirt, leaves, and spider webs are cleaned up, the engine bay dings, and covers painted. The last steps are getting the battery relocated, moving a couple grounds, and doing the wire tuck on the passenger side.

Out of those last steps the only one I could currently work on with the state of the engine bay wiring was moving the battery. It was the next task on my list and because I ordered all of the parts from Speed Inc. I though I was set… I read the directions and figured that even though I didn’t know where to run the positive power cable to that I could at least get the battery box mounted in the spare tire area. I told the guy when I ordered it that was my plan and he told me that they have a Moroso box and relocation kit that would work… Well, slight problem again:





*Refresher from the earlier material needed* No matter which was I turned it the damn thing still wasn’t even close to fitting. This set back of course made me upset because I was specific in saying that I wanted it to fit in the spare tire area, being told that this piece would work, and come to find out it isn’t even remotely close. It’s kind of along the lines of saying I want poly motor mounts, waiting over a month for them, receiving all of the poly parts, but one motor mount, calling, being told that I was only charged for a single motor mount, paying for a second one, waiting again, having my second mount I paid for shipped to the wrong address, waiting again for a replacement to be shipped, eventually receiving it on Saturday, July 10th, and the tracking number for the package I’d already received the following Monday July 13th. What was I going to do with one poly motor mount and now what I am going to do with a battery box that won’t fit where I was told it would? I’m not trying to bash Speed Inc. as they’ve made everything right up to this point, but this is getting really frustrating.

In attempting to make something positive out of this debacle what sealed battery boxes actually fit 100% in the spare tire area? Apparently, I am going to need a new one. I could also use some help in figuring out how to run the new power cable. I checked out the OEM battery cables in hopes of figuring out how to run the new one. I found that the positive terminal splits off with the red cable running towards the starter. The other side of the positive cable splits off with the red (+) side going to the fuse box and the black (-) side going towards the alternator. I’m not too sure how to run the new positive power wire. Obviously, the negative is just going to ground the chassis, but the positive….? I’m thinking about just some how connecting the new power wire to the OEM positive side of the battery cables, but I’m not sure if that’d work. If anyone has pictures or could draw a simple diagram of how they moved their battery I would really appreciate the help.

Beaflag VonRathburg

iTrader: (176)

Testing the waters. The 93 is now for sale.
https://ls1tech.com/forums/vehicle-c...l#post13951905

02 reaper z28

this may be way off topic but i just now saw your thread and the same thing happen to my 02 z28 i had saved up for a year and a half both my 02 camaro z28 cash. did a full tune up you name it i did it the last thing on my to do list was the oil/oil filter change i finally did it to royal purple and knn oil filter. well not even a month past after the oil change wen one day i was driving home in a bad storm going berry careful not to go thro any puddles after i got home i park the car and it sat for a whole day wild the storm past it rain so hard. after it clear up i went to start it but my z28 did not come to life it would not start turns out my engine got lock because water some how found a way to get inside couse off some bad head gaskets it had..i had no way off knowing but now i know how to check for bad head gaskets all you have to do is lift up your oil cap and if you see crap like egg on the cap you better go fix the gasket and fast other wise your fbody will go bye bye..but since then i both a nother ls1 drop it in and she runs like a chap now!! my z28 sat 3month with out and engine so dont lose faith bro she will come back to life