Beaflag VonRathburg

iTrader: (176)

I appreciate the offer. The fuel pump setup this exactly: https://ls1tech.com/forums/parts-cla...ump-sytem.html I think the best way for me to set it up now would be pump 1 always on and 2+3 on by some RPM trigger or WOT switch. Open to well thought out and documented suggestions. Diagrams (even paint ones) are greatly appreciated.

https://ls1tech.com/forums/attachmen...-sytem-001.jpg

3 new Racetronix Walbro 255 lph pumps.
3 new Ford Racing large filter socks
Custom tig welded hanger and hat
-10 feed bulkhead fitting
-8 return bulkhead fitting
Custom ported and hard anodized 3 into 1 shower head distribution block
Flexible SAE submersible efi hose
Each pump has it own dedicated 12 gauge feed and ground wires
Fuel gauge sending unit

Shift light is your basic Raptor, but I don't have a tach wire with continuity right now because of the repinning. My body harness is 98, but my engine harness is 99+. I repinned the interconnects where the two meet at the firewall. You go from 3 plugs on the interior harness to 2 plugs and consolodate the wiring. Going through some really old diagrams I drew and haven't looked at in years... The tach wire is pin 230 D / white and the ECT is 220 K / dark green.

While the person who was guiding me through this was telling me about the process I wrote, "2 Wire ECT plug for coolant sensor. Need a 3 wire plug." As well as. "Run an extra wire through the engine harness. 220 Pin K cut off pin, solder a length of wire to run to ECT (runs to cluster)" That person who I paid $100 for the information, diagrams, etc... stopped answering the phone or any emails I sent him about the situation. I only need to figure out those two wires and I'm done with it.

Questions:
- Does anyone know the difference between the 98 and 99+ coolant temp sensors? What I can guess by reading what I wrote is that the 98 has a 3 wire coolant temp sensor. Something like (power, ground, + signal) and the 99+ has a two wire sensor (ground + signal) and that my engine harness being 99+ only has a two wire plug. I therefore need to run an extra length from 220 K and connect it to the 2 pin ECT plug to make it like a 98.

- I have the white tach wire coming out of my cluster that runs over to the interconnect, but it currently isn't connected to anything. My thought is locating the tach signal wire from the PCM out and simply connecting them.

Again, these are simply educated guesses and not having a working engine makes testing if these will actually work difficult.

Beaflag VonRathburg

iTrader: (176)

I was feeling a little motivated earlier today so I went down and popped open the hood to try and figure out some of the wiring questions I had. Which were:

Questions (ANSWERS UNDERLINED):
- Does anyone know the difference between the 98 and 99+ coolant temp sensors? What I can guess by reading what I wrote is that the 98 has a 3 wire coolant temp sensor. Something like (power, ground, + signal) and the 99+ has a two wire sensor (ground + signal) and that my engine harness being 99+ only has a two wire plug. I therefore need to run an extra length from 220 K and connect it to the 2 pin ECT plug to make it like a 98.
Answer: https://ls1tech.com/forums/pcm-diagn...ke-values.html That simply told me the difference about how they operate and you can see the diagram for the 98 setup on the 2nd page. The diagram shows a dark green wire (220 Pin K) runs from the cluster to the sensor. That is what I need to setup.My 220 K ends at the firewall and I need to run some wire from the firewall to the sensor. The issue that I have now is that my 99 engine harness has the plug on it for the 99+ ECT sensor. You can see the differences in the harnesses.

98:


99+


My plan is to buy one of the 98 plugs, connect that to the 99+ engine harness, and run 200 K to the new plug.

Helpful link for 98 ECT sensor with images: http://www.am-autoparts.com/Pontiac/...15/664210.html

- I have the white tach wire coming out of my cluster that runs over to the interconnect, but it currently isn't connected to anything. My thought is locating the tach signal wire from the PCM out and simply connecting them.
ANSWER: As far as I know this is what I'm going to do.

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Today's images:

98 3 wire ECT sensor and Tach signal from PCM discovered.


99+ 2 Wire ECT plug on harness that will be getting changed.


--------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Items I still need help with:

- AVIC-D3 head unit wiring (Remember some sort of aftermarket plug and I have 1/2 of them in the garage. I need to dig tomorrow and find it.)
- Battery cutoff relay finished (Have a diagram)
- Shift light, gauges, and fuel pump functionality / power LEDs (Little to no clue)
- Fuel system wiring (Absolutely no clue)

Answered:
- Repinning harness for the coolant temperature gauge and tach

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Again, if anyone would like to donate time in the garage, a phone call, email, PM, or any sort of help it would be greatly appreciated.

98Camarod

iTrader: (43)

I'm pretty sure that the shift light required a 12v switched source and the tach signal. Then you just had to have the tach operating for a v8. http://raptorperformance.com/Install...aro/camaro.htm

For the fuel pump setup: post number 10
https://ls1tech.com/forums/fueling-i...mp-wiring.html

98Camarod

iTrader: (43)

I'm pretty sure that the shift light required a 12v switched source and the tach signal. Then you just had to have the tach operating for a v8. http://raptorperformance.com/Install...aro/camaro.htm

For the fuel pump setup: post number 10
https://ls1tech.com/forums/fueling-i...mp-wiring.html

VodeAn

iTrader: (2)

Might I make a suggestion, buy ONE Automotive A1000. I personally know of at least 3 people who have had trouble with running 3 Wallies. One of them has a twin-charged 2003 Cobra and blew his motor when 2 of the pumps failed, they had socks on them and everything, and were properly wired with relays. Save yourself some time and money get one good pump, just insulate if your worried about noise.

xx_ED_xx

iTrader: (17)

you get this shitbox running yet? still use that basketball size turbo?

Beaflag VonRathburg

iTrader: (176)

Can't do it anymore. Car is going to be listed for sale shortly. All parts collected for the car as well as some others are for sale and located here: https://ls1tech.com/forums/parts-cla...onics-etc.html

Blue85350

iTrader: (1)

I was just wondering the other day if this thing had made any progress. Now I have my answer.

Beaflag VonRathburg

iTrader: (176)

I'm going to see how much money I can raise with the parts before I decide to sell the car or not. I may end up just going super basic with it, but in the end I don't really need a car right now. Especially, one that doesn't work and takes up a huge amount of space in my work area.

-------------------------------------------

All parts collected for the car as well as some others are for sale and located here: https://ls1tech.com/forums/parts-cla...onics-etc.html

Blue85350

iTrader: (1)

It looks like you have almost everything to get it together and running. Put it together get it driving, that'll rekindle the fire. That's what I would do anyway.

Beaflag VonRathburg

iTrader: (176)

I'm not even close. Still need: Heads, rockers, cam, pushrods, intake manifold, TB, intake, complete exhaust system, finish wiring, redo / hack cage, rear coilovers as there's no longer spring perches in the car, 4x tires, fluids, tune, etc... It's an easy $2000 with stock parts to $6000 with decent parts.

-----------------------------------------------------------------------------

All parts collected for the car as well as some others are for sale and located here: https://ls1tech.com/forums/parts-cla...onics-etc.html

01WS6/tamu

iTrader: (37)

[QUOTE=Beaflag VonRathburg;18246077]I'm going to see how much money I can raise with the parts before I decide to sell the car or not. I may end up just going super basic with it, but in the end I don't really need a car right now. Especially, one that doesn't work and takes up a huge amount of space in my work area.

-------------------------------------------

Put it the hell together already sit it in the driveway running dont part her out.

Beaflag VonRathburg

iTrader: (176)

If you'd like to donate all of the stock parts I list below, $2000-$6000, or a combination of the two I'd be more than happy to put it together.

Honestly what I'd need to put it together as cheaply as possible.
- 317 heads with rockers (Need 70+ CC chambered heads)
- Center bolt valve covers with bolts
- LS1 intake manifold, throttle body, bellows, and lid
- Exhaust manifolds, y pipe, exhaust
- Rear coilovers
- 4x 18" tires
- Help with the wiring (I'm color blind and as much as everyone rags me about finishing the car no one will help)
- Random wiring harness connectors
- Tune

EDIT:
- Stock injectors + fuel rail

01WS6/tamu

iTrader: (37)

What connectors are you needing? I have 15 harness' in various stages of gutted.
Color blind I could see making wiring a miserable job.
coil overs, tune, 18's, valve covers can't help with.

Intake, TB lid, ypipe and exhaust manifolds I do have just gotta get my car back from paint tore down and new motor put in heck I'd donate if it'll get forward momentum. Dont give up on her but I do understand projects that stall and languish due to lack of funds. Corner of our shop looks like a dumpster behind a abortion clinic from crap I've started on and stalled out or halfway done adult project ADHD what I call it.

Beaflag VonRathburg

iTrader: (176)

I need a 98 3 wire ect connector to change on the engine harness. I haven't figured out the tach wire yet. Those are the only two things I need to finish in regards to repinning the harness. The only other basic thing would be wiring the battery cutoff. The rest of the items could wait / be sold. Color blindness makes it near impossible. I also live by myself now. It's not like a couple years ago where I could ask my best friend / roommate to come tell me what color wires are.

I honestly really do appreciate the offer in regards to the stock parts. I may take you up on the offer for those parts. Getting this car running is the number one thing I want to achieve, but at this point I'm trying to be realistic. I need to raise about $9500 and most of that is only going to come from car parts. I'm going to try and avoid selling the car itself as if things work out I should be able to make back all of that money and then some to finally get the car running.

LOL, I can't even get to the laundry area in my garage because it is buried behind car parts, an engine, 8ft tall pile of boxes, and 36 steel shelving racks.

Beaflag VonRathburg

iTrader: (176)

LOL, as I type that I just sold a turbomolecular vacuum pump controller on ebay. Must be some weird sort of sign. PS: If everyone would just like to buy my scientific equipment instead I could avoid selling the car parts. Either that or I may just get creative and start something like a kickstarter for my car.

Beaflag VonRathburg

iTrader: (176)

Car is for sale. Information located here: https://ls1tech.com/forums/vehicle-c...ds-engine.html

Aftermarket parts not on the car are for sale here:
https://ls1tech.com/forums/parts-cla...onics-etc.html

DEFYANT

I can't believe it man... Will you get another F-Body?

82cetuner

iTrader: (9)

If you had just gotten a stock ls1 and done heads and cam you would of had a fun car you could of drove for past 7 years and slowly modded. with all the buying of brand new super expensive best of the best parts you were buying then turning around and selling them and losing money. you probably waisted enouph money to buy another completely running ls1 trans am. I knew this car would never be finished with your constant idea chaning seeing something new and better than what you had so selling off stuff you just got to get it. its rare most projects get finished if not back on the road within 3 or 4 years. you should have listend to everyone when they said just get it running now you have no money and no running car, and wont get near the 4300 your asking for that shell most likely with the stock 10 bolt still in it. even with the cage and wheel tubs. glws and hope you find yourself into another running f body sometime.

Beaflag VonRathburg

iTrader: (176)

Thank you for your amazing insight. I wish everyone on here was as helpful as you are.

PS: Buying and selling parts... I'm in the black.