I couldn't get a response in the Tools forum, so I'll try here.

I've seen write-ups where they recommend using the factory tools to align the front and rear covers on the Gen III/IV engines. But I've also seen others where they say to let the seals do the cover alignment for you (i.e., install the covers with seals in place, leave the bolts finger-tight, install the balancer, then tighten the cover bolts). This latter method seems to make sense to me, based on experience with other engines. But I was just wondering what experience others have had. I will be assembling my LS1 soon, and I don't want to make any mistakes.

Thanks!

 

I used the tools on mine, I had a friend who was able to let me borrow a set (thanks again chris / IrocSS85!). That's the way the factory recommends it, and thats the way I wanted to do it.

 

I just use the finger thread the bolts, seat pulley, then tighten bolts method for the front cover. If you've taken off the oil pan, just be sure to thread in a few of the 10mm bolts, then tighten the 13mm bolts that go through the bellhousing to line up the pan to the rear of the block and finally tighten the remaining bolts.

 

Nice set of Kent Moore tools...what the hell are those ugly piggies doin in the pic?

 

i have never used a set of those tools and have had problems. just make sure you get it as close as you can and it wont leak.

 

I am putting my pan and fornt and rear covers on in just a second. I should have the car running this afternoon. Last time I did no use a tool. I am not going to use one this time either. I will let you know how it goes tonight.

 

LOL! This is gonna sound completely retarded but I've been working on my car barefoot almost every day for the past 2 or 3 weeks

 

wtf!!

 

Jesus those are the ugliest toes I've ever seen
I work on my car barefoot too but my toes dont look like that

 

I put mine on with no tools and no leaks to date. I put the front cover on loose then the pulley to center it then tightened the bolts. I made sure that the front and rear covers were flush with the oil pan rail as described in the shop manual and it seems to have worked fine. I also paid close attention to how the rear cover seal went on on my old motor and made sure I had it the same way on the new one. No pinches or folds in the seal. I too was worried I would need the tools to keep it from leaking. A little RTV never hurt either.

 

Ive also installed the front and rear covers on my cars with out the tools and to this day no leaks. Thanks to copperseal and a crapload of silicone I have yet to see stains on my floor

Working on cars bar foot kicks ***!!!!!

 

Lol I have hobbit feet

 

You barefoot mechanics have more guts than I have! I have steel-toed work boots that I use most of the time. I once had a toe amputated by a barbeque-grill part. My son had cleaned it and asked me to come look at it one morning when I was still in my robe. He lifted the top off and dropped this big cast-iron griddle right on my toe - endwise! I'm telling you, there's no way to tell when stuff like that will happen. Learn from my mistake and be prepared! And, despite what you may have heard, severed digits do not always re-attach!