Which valves are better ?
#1
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Ok guys here is my question. Which valves are better for power and reliability. The two valves in question are the GM LS6 valves (hollow stem intake and sodium filled exhaust) or Manley's "pro flow" style ? Just wondering what the best part is between these 2 choices. I'm leaning toward the GM valves but want to make sure before i purchase. Thanks for the help.
#2
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Manley pro flow. The stock LS6 valves are great but not on nitrous or FI (reliability) and pointless if you're running heavy duals.
LS6 valves with Beehive springs and titanium retaines make for the lightest moving mass and the best harmonic controling valvetrain. So if NA running a .600 lift cam or so, that would be my choice for racing.
LS6 valves with Beehive springs and titanium retaines make for the lightest moving mass and the best harmonic controling valvetrain. So if NA running a .600 lift cam or so, that would be my choice for racing.
#3
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Well i guess i should go with the Manley valves . I have been toying with the notion of spraying this engine once its in and running, i just hope the tranny will hold
. Thanks for the advice !
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#4
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Originally Posted by PREDATOR-Z
Manley pro flow. The stock LS6 valves are great but not on nitrous or FI (reliability) and pointless if you're running heavy duals.
LS6 valves with Beehive springs and titanium retaines make for the lightest moving mass and the best harmonic controling valvetrain. So if NA running a .600 lift cam or so, that would be my choice for racing.
LS6 valves with Beehive springs and titanium retaines make for the lightest moving mass and the best harmonic controling valvetrain. So if NA running a .600 lift cam or so, that would be my choice for racing.
Also the sodium filled exhaust valves designed to disipate heat faster than solid valves. Robert56's worked out fine taking bottle after bottle on a 225-275 multi stage dry shot on a stock longblock. He didn't even have headers. The only thing that took it out was user error as he had messed with the tune incorrectly.
I agree that a stainless valve might be better in some situations that the LS6 light weights, but not always.
#5
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Originally Posted by Beaflag VonRathburg
I'm going to have to politely disagree with some of this. It's not pointless to attempt to have the lightest valve train. Even if you are running heavy dual springs having light valves isn't a disagvantage. High RPM stability and reduced spring wear just to name a few.
Also the sodium filled exhaust valves designed to disipate heat faster than solid valves. Robert56's worked out fine taking bottle after bottle on a 225-275 multi stage dry shot on a stock longblock. He didn't even have headers. The only thing that took it out was user error as he had messed with the tune incorrectly.
I agree that a stainless valve might be better in some situations that the LS6 light weights, but not always.
Also the sodium filled exhaust valves designed to disipate heat faster than solid valves. Robert56's worked out fine taking bottle after bottle on a 225-275 multi stage dry shot on a stock longblock. He didn't even have headers. The only thing that took it out was user error as he had messed with the tune incorrectly.
I agree that a stainless valve might be better in some situations that the LS6 light weights, but not always.
If you have a stock solid stainless with PP duals for exemple and a lighter LS6 valves with the same springs, there will be 0 benefit at the rpms your average motor spins. Why? because those springs are overkill on 90% of the applications poeple use them for.
Ask 100 members here why they would prefer to use duals over a reputed beehive. The answer would be 9 out of 10 "for peace of mind". Maybe 1 will answer because the seat pressures conform to what the cam requires.
#7
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Good info guys keep the ball rolling. I guess i should give a little engine specifics to help with the discussion. I'm building up an LS4 block into basically an LS6. It will be bored out to 3.898 (99mm) . I plan on running a quality set of forged piston and H-beam rods (not sure which ones yet). The LS4 heads are the 243 casting and have standard ls1 valves and springs , which will be upgraded. I'm going to run a carbed manifold and ignition box from edelbrock. Still undescided on the cam and springs. I would like to have a redline around 7500rpm which works with the manifold. I'm still researching alot of parts so any help is appreciated . Thanks !
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#8
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Originally Posted by PREDATOR-Z
That is what I said, having the lightest valvetrain is a benefit, but putting heavy duals on a light valve is like putting a iron block in a vette, you scew up the whole weight distribution. Otherwise why didn't the Z06 come with duals?
Originally Posted by PREDATOR-Z
If you have a stock solid stainless with PP duals for example and a lighter LS6 valves with the same springs, there will be 0 benefit at the rpms your average motor spins. Why? because those springs are overkill on 90% of the applications poeple use them for.
There's of course also the huge new trend of ginormously oversized hydraulic cams on the market. Usually requiring 7k shift point to make power every bit of valve train stability helps. Especially with crazy cams like the MS4 that are pushing dangerously close P to V clearance as is. I believe you touched on that issue also in another post. Float a valve with one of those and
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Originally Posted by PREDATOR-Z
Ask 100 members here why they would prefer to use duals over a reputed beehive. The answer would be 9 out of 10 "for peace of mind". Maybe 1 will answer because the seat pressures conform to what the cam requires.
There's also the question of how well do your heads flow? I'm not sure of the comparable flow gain from switching from a 2.00 to a 2.02+ intake valve. 1 cfm is about 2.2hp and every little bit helps.
If you have stockish heads and are on a budget the sodium valves would be a better application as they don't require machining, they are about the same cost as aftermarket valves, and they're lighter.
Aftermarket heads on the other hand are built for maximum performance and the price reflects that. They usually come packed with all the goodies; dual springs, SS valves, and amazing flow numbers. In an application like that of course the SS valves are a no brainer.
#10
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Originally Posted by Bo White
When it comes to aftermarket valves, I run Ferrea....
#12
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I'm trying to find a reliable, lightweight valvetrain solution for a N/A 347 application.
Can I safely use lighter valves in the PRC 5.3L heads than the 2.02/1.575 valves which they came with? If lighter valves are available, what machine work would be required to properly mate them to the 5.3L heads?
The parts I was planning on using to ensure 7200-7500RPM reliability are:
- ARP rod bolts
- Caddy lifters
- LS1 Rev Kit from [not a sponsor]
- at least 3/8" x 0.080 pushrods (or maybe thicker wall if the oiling will not suffer?)
- The PRC Platinum springs which come on the 5.3L heads
- Stock rockers (because I can't afford a decent aftermarket set
)
Short of the rocker arms, is there anything I'm missing, or not considering?
Can I safely use lighter valves in the PRC 5.3L heads than the 2.02/1.575 valves which they came with? If lighter valves are available, what machine work would be required to properly mate them to the 5.3L heads?
The parts I was planning on using to ensure 7200-7500RPM reliability are:
- ARP rod bolts
- Caddy lifters
- LS1 Rev Kit from [not a sponsor]
- at least 3/8" x 0.080 pushrods (or maybe thicker wall if the oiling will not suffer?)
- The PRC Platinum springs which come on the 5.3L heads
- Stock rockers (because I can't afford a decent aftermarket set
![Sad](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/smilies/LS1Tech/gr_sad.gif)
Short of the rocker arms, is there anything I'm missing, or not considering?
#13
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Originally Posted by JimMueller
I'm trying to find a reliable, lightweight valvetrain solution for a N/A 347 application.
Can I safely use lighter valves in the PRC 5.3L heads than the 2.02/1.575 valves which they came with? If lighter valves are available, what machine work would be required to properly mate them to the 5.3L heads?
The parts I was planning on using to ensure 7200-7500RPM reliability are:
- ARP rod bolts
- Caddy lifters
- LS1 Rev Kit from [not a sponsor]
- at least 3/8" x 0.080 pushrods (or maybe thicker wall if the oiling will not suffer?)
- The PRC Platinum springs which come on the 5.3L heads
- Stock rockers (because I can't afford a decent aftermarket set
)
Short of the rocker arms, is there anything I'm missing, or not considering?
Can I safely use lighter valves in the PRC 5.3L heads than the 2.02/1.575 valves which they came with? If lighter valves are available, what machine work would be required to properly mate them to the 5.3L heads?
The parts I was planning on using to ensure 7200-7500RPM reliability are:
- ARP rod bolts
- Caddy lifters
- LS1 Rev Kit from [not a sponsor]
- at least 3/8" x 0.080 pushrods (or maybe thicker wall if the oiling will not suffer?)
- The PRC Platinum springs which come on the 5.3L heads
- Stock rockers (because I can't afford a decent aftermarket set
![Sad](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/smilies/LS1Tech/gr_sad.gif)
Short of the rocker arms, is there anything I'm missing, or not considering?
#14
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Originally Posted by JimMueller
I'm trying to find a reliable, lightweight valvetrain solution for a N/A 347 application.
Can I safely use lighter valves in the PRC 5.3L heads than the 2.02/1.575 valves which they came with? If lighter valves are available, what machine work would be required to properly mate them to the 5.3L heads?
The parts I was planning on using to ensure 7200-7500RPM reliability are:
- ARP rod bolts
- Caddy lifters
- LS1 Rev Kit from [not a sponsor]
- at least 3/8" x 0.080 pushrods (or maybe thicker wall if the oiling will not suffer?)
- The PRC Platinum springs which come on the 5.3L heads
- Stock rockers (because I can't afford a decent aftermarket set
)
Short of the rocker arms, is there anything I'm missing, or not considering?
Can I safely use lighter valves in the PRC 5.3L heads than the 2.02/1.575 valves which they came with? If lighter valves are available, what machine work would be required to properly mate them to the 5.3L heads?
The parts I was planning on using to ensure 7200-7500RPM reliability are:
- ARP rod bolts
- Caddy lifters
- LS1 Rev Kit from [not a sponsor]
- at least 3/8" x 0.080 pushrods (or maybe thicker wall if the oiling will not suffer?)
- The PRC Platinum springs which come on the 5.3L heads
- Stock rockers (because I can't afford a decent aftermarket set
![Sad](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/smilies/LS1Tech/gr_sad.gif)
Short of the rocker arms, is there anything I'm missing, or not considering?
Ferrea part numbers:
Intake: F1022P - 2.02, 4.900", .3135 stem diameter
Exhaust: F1021P - 1.60, 4.915", .313 stem diameter
Don't be surprised when you see the cost!
#15
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Ack! Right around $39/ea. The 1022P's are 100 grams and the 1021P's are 86 grams according to: http://www.totalengineairflow.com/te...ainweights.php
It looks like a custom 1.575 could be ordered direct from Ferrea: https://ls1tech.com/forums/generation-iii-internal-engine/367990-ferrea-hollow-stem-valves-s.html
Any idea what my valves weigh (short of pulling and weighing them?)
It looks like a custom 1.575 could be ordered direct from Ferrea: https://ls1tech.com/forums/generation-iii-internal-engine/367990-ferrea-hollow-stem-valves-s.html
Any idea what my valves weigh (short of pulling and weighing them?)
#16
TECH Junkie
iTrader: (9)
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Well Jason @ TSP said he'd weigh the valves last night. We'll see. I found this old post from 405_HPZ06 regarding some Z06 vs. Ferrea weights:
https://ls1tech.com/forums/showpost....2&postcount=10
https://ls1tech.com/forums/showpost....2&postcount=10
#17
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iTrader: (11)
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Originally Posted by JimMueller
Ack! Right around $39/ea. The 1022P's are 100 grams and the 1021P's are 86 grams according to: http://www.totalengineairflow.com/te...ainweights.php
It looks like a custom 1.575 could be ordered direct from Ferrea: https://ls1tech.com/forums/showthread.php?t=367990
Any idea what my valves weigh (short of pulling and weighing them?)
It looks like a custom 1.575 could be ordered direct from Ferrea: https://ls1tech.com/forums/showthread.php?t=367990
Any idea what my valves weigh (short of pulling and weighing them?)
2.055: 4.900" - 98.4g
1.60: 4.940 - 90.3g
#19
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No response from TSP. I weighed my valves today, but forgot the lifter & rocker arm:
2.02 Intake valve: 99g
1.575 Exhaust valve: 91g
Retainer: 11g
Total spring: 93g
Even if money was no object, I need help understanding the value of saving 5 grams on the Ferrea exhaust valve for $320, or saving 6 grams on a Manley 11362H intake valve for $375.
2.02 Intake valve: 99g
1.575 Exhaust valve: 91g
Retainer: 11g
Total spring: 93g
Even if money was no object, I need help understanding the value of saving 5 grams on the Ferrea exhaust valve for $320, or saving 6 grams on a Manley 11362H intake valve for $375.