coolant leak, out of side of the block
coolant leak, out of side of the block Anybody seen a LS1 block leak coolant right out of the side of the block?
I got one thats leaking on the drivers side, right about #5 cylinder. No core plugs or anything near it. You can blow it dry with air and watch it come right out.
No signs of anything out of the ordinary. It just looks as if there is a pin hole in the casting.
And before anyone questions if its coming from somewhere else, I have verified repeatedly.
It only leaks when its got some pressure on it.
TIA
I got one thats leaking on the drivers side, right about #5 cylinder. No core plugs or anything near it. You can blow it dry with air and watch it come right out.
No signs of anything out of the ordinary. It just looks as if there is a pin hole in the casting.
And before anyone questions if its coming from somewhere else, I have verified repeatedly.
It only leaks when its got some pressure on it.
TIA
I have never seen one leak from the block but I am sure someone has. It sounds like motor rebuild time. 
It is not coming from the heads is it? That would be much easier to fix. 
Good luck.
Bill
It is not coming from the heads is it? That would be much easier to fix. Good luck.
Bill
Originally Posted by Bill Bowling
I have never seen one leak from the block but I am sure someone has. It sounds like motor rebuild time. It is not coming from the heads is it? That would be much easier to fix.
Good luck.
Bill
It is not coming from the heads is it? That would be much easier to fix. Good luck.
Bill
Originally Posted by tee-boy
If it is really coming from side of block, then it's a freeze plug. A new freeze plug costs about 50 cents. Time to change the coolant in that thing. You will also need to inspect radiator and rest of cooling system. Hopefully it is a plug that can be reached w/o removing the engine.
Besides, LS motors dont have freeze plugs
If you knew these motors you would know that.
I can blow the area clean and it comes right out, plain as day.
Looking for input from OTHER LS ENGINE SPECIALISTS ALL OTHERS NEED NOT COMMENT
TIA
Originally Posted by tee-boy
one way to ensure it's a freeze plug is to stick your finger at the source and feel around the block. If it feels like a circluar indentation, then it's a freeze plug and not the block itself.
Besides, ls motors dont have freeze plugs!!!!!
What year is it? I heard some 98 f-body blocks had oil seepage issues. The blocks may have been built a little to porous and oils would leak right through. Especially after a high volume oil pump was installed.
If this is the case, if the block is poarous near a water passage, it could be the same thing.
It might be the same for 97-98 vettes. Your sig doesn't list what kind of vehicle you have.
I sure hope it's something different.
If this is the case, if the block is poarous near a water passage, it could be the same thing.
It might be the same for 97-98 vettes. Your sig doesn't list what kind of vehicle you have.
I sure hope it's something different.
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Originally Posted by Dragula
What year is it? I heard some 98 f-body blocks had oil seepage issues. The blocks may have been built a little to porous and oils would leak right through. Especially after a high volume oil pump was installed.
If this is the case, if the block is poarous near a water passage, it could be the same thing.
It might be the same for 97-98 vettes. Your sig doesn't list what kind of vehicle you have.
I sure hope it's something different.
If this is the case, if the block is poarous near a water passage, it could be the same thing.
It might be the same for 97-98 vettes. Your sig doesn't list what kind of vehicle you have.
I sure hope it's something different.
Not sure what the year is, its not the original motor in the car. But I will find out and post up.
Thanks for the reply, and not asking me if I'm sure......
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Originally Posted by edcmat-l1
Look, Dude, I'm a master tech with over 20 years exp. No need to give me the simpleton approach.
Besides, ls motors dont have freeze plugs!!!!!
Besides, ls motors dont have freeze plugs!!!!!
Got to be a hairline crack. I would drain and dry the place off and put a thin coat of JB Weld on it. I use to have a 427 bb that had a 12 quart oil pan that use to love to scrub the pavement and I've had to stop and rub some soap on it to fill the pores up where it was leaking and I always threw a thin coat of JB Weld on it and it stopped leaking....until I scrubbed the road again. It ought to work. Oils harder to stop that water when its leaking.
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Some aluminum castings have porous "regions" where fluid will weep out under pressure...
I have read about this with engine block and transmission cases, and the GM recommended repair is to apply epoxy (I suppose this is ok since low pressures are involved)...
I've experience this with GM's electro-hydraulic-assisted ABS system where a replaced pump forced brake fluid out thru the porous aluminum housing; my point being that something changed to increase the pressure just enough to push fluid thru the already porous casting (edit: ...was it porous already or did it internally corrode...?).
I have read about this with engine block and transmission cases, and the GM recommended repair is to apply epoxy (I suppose this is ok since low pressures are involved)...
I've experience this with GM's electro-hydraulic-assisted ABS system where a replaced pump forced brake fluid out thru the porous aluminum housing; my point being that something changed to increase the pressure just enough to push fluid thru the already porous casting (edit: ...was it porous already or did it internally corrode...?).
Last edited by joecar; Jul 5, 2007 at 03:36 PM.
Originally Posted by joecar
Some aluminum castings have porous "regions" where fluid will weep out under pressure...
I have read about this with engine block and transmission cases, and the GM recommended repair is to apply epoxy (I suppose this is ok since low pressures are involved)...
I've experience this with GM's electro-hydraulic-assisted ABS system where a replaced pump forced brake fluid out thru the porous aluminum housing; my point being that something changed to increase the pressure just enough to push fluid thru the already porous casting (edit: ...was it porous already or did it internally corrode...?).
I have read about this with engine block and transmission cases, and the GM recommended repair is to apply epoxy (I suppose this is ok since low pressures are involved)...
I've experience this with GM's electro-hydraulic-assisted ABS system where a replaced pump forced brake fluid out thru the porous aluminum housing; my point being that something changed to increase the pressure just enough to push fluid thru the already porous casting (edit: ...was it porous already or did it internally corrode...?).
Thinkin about ceramic block sealer.
Looks like there might be newer blocks with the same issues.
http://www.ls2gto.com/forums/showthread.php?t=133171
http://www.ls1gto.com/forums/showthread.php?p=2605010
and read 05-06-01-034C below
http://www.cadillacfaq.com/faq/tsb/index.php?category=4
http://www.ls2gto.com/forums/showthread.php?t=133171
http://www.ls1gto.com/forums/showthread.php?p=2605010
and read 05-06-01-034C below
http://www.cadillacfaq.com/faq/tsb/index.php?category=4
Originally Posted by bsf
Please post what you do to solve the problem. Thanks and good luck.