Forged pistons/rods
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Forged pistons/rods I would like to get forged rod and pistons for my turbo build and lower compression. Since I have only been a full bolt on/minor internal guy so far I have a question some may say retarded, ya sorry. Is it absolutley necessary to bore/resleeve when doing pistons? Or can you just upgrade with forged rods/pistons as long as there is no serious issues on the walls? I have a 2001 TA
Originally Posted by Websy21
I know the bottom end will take it just wish I could change out the pistons and rods with minimal work/money. What would be the cheapest way of doing this?
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ok, thanks, that is what I thought just didn't want to here that. I was telling a buddy that I thought you for surely had to atleast machine the block but he didn't think so.
you dont need to bore it unless there is alot of wear.....you need to mic the walls and see how much wear you have.
i doubt very seriously that you have enough miles on it to have too much wear, all you have to do is just hone the cylinders so the rings will seat. i know of people that have not even honed it and it was fine, but, i wouldnt do it. especialy on a turbo build.
actually i know a guy that has rebuilt a couple of motors and not used ANY new parts. im talking, headgaskets, headbolts, everythink, all he did was put new bearings in it...there was about 3 motors that was peiced together and it held up for about 5,000 miles. of hell...............lol
but, bottom line is, if it was mine, which i will be doing this soon too, put new rods and pistons, rings and bearings, and hone the cylinders and you will be fine....
i doubt very seriously that you have enough miles on it to have too much wear, all you have to do is just hone the cylinders so the rings will seat. i know of people that have not even honed it and it was fine, but, i wouldnt do it. especialy on a turbo build.
actually i know a guy that has rebuilt a couple of motors and not used ANY new parts. im talking, headgaskets, headbolts, everythink, all he did was put new bearings in it...there was about 3 motors that was peiced together and it held up for about 5,000 miles. of hell...............lol
but, bottom line is, if it was mine, which i will be doing this soon too, put new rods and pistons, rings and bearings, and hone the cylinders and you will be fine....
Originally Posted by Websy21
ok, thanks, that is what I thought just didn't want to here that. I was telling a buddy that I thought you for surely had to atleast machine the block but he didn't think so.
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Originally Posted by Websy21
Sounds good, how much do you think this would cost if done yourself? Parts $2000 plus honeing labour? Help me out
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Well what do the stock bolts hold for horsepower/boost? How much do the arp studs cost? I am sure I could roughly guess what the parts would cost, but what does a typical shop charge to hone the cylinders? Other than that part of it I am sure I could do everything else and save alot of money?
Youd prolly be looking around 500 for machine work (polish stock crank, hone block, line hone, and balancing. Assmy might add to the cost.
The APR stuff is mainly for peice of mind, altho I would strongly recomend getting their head studs. For the mains, the stock stuff might do, but thats something that should be discussed with the enginebuilder/machine shop.
The APR stuff is mainly for peice of mind, altho I would strongly recomend getting their head studs. For the mains, the stock stuff might do, but thats something that should be discussed with the enginebuilder/machine shop.
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from what i have read i think i would do arp studs for sure under high boost, so basically on a budget forged internal stock block build would be 3 g's minimum? Then you might as well go FAST 90/90 for 1000 and 6.0 ported heads for another 1000 and up to 5000 in a hurray