Cam Swap in Progress, Need Help Fast....
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Cam Swap in Progress, Need Help Fast.... I am in the process of changing the valve springs and having some trouble.... I am using compressed air to hold the valves up but as soon as I take the pressure off of the valves by compressing the springs air blows out the intake. I have tried it on two diff. cylinders with the same re3sult.... I am using approx 50 psi. Any help.... Also I got the duel springs from PRC and all of the vavle seals look to be the same and are the same color??? HELP....
Originally Posted by Blow03SS
what? 
Last edited by jmm98LS1; Sep 13, 2007 at 01:27 PM.
use this from ls1howto.com, B) This method is a bit more elegant. Rotate your motor over by hand until your cam gear and crank gear are dot to dot like you set them up as earlier. At this position, piston 1 and 6 should be at top dead center. You can change the 4 springs on these 2 cylinders now using the instructions below. After you change those 4, then, rotate the crankshaft a full 90 degrees, and the cam gear dot will turn 45 degrees, as if it is pointing to 7:30 if it were a clock. Now piston 8 and 5 are at the top and can be changed. Rotate another 90 degrees on the crank and your cam gear dot will now be at 9 o'clock. Piston 7 and 4 can now have their springs changed. And FINALLY, rotate the crank another 90 degrees and the cam gear dot will be at 10:30. You can now change your remaining four springs on piston 3 and 2.
Once again, that's 1 & 6, rotate 90, 8 & 5, rotate 90, 7 & 4, rotate 90, 3 & 2.
I did this method and didn't have any kind of problem.
Once again, that's 1 & 6, rotate 90, 8 & 5, rotate 90, 7 & 4, rotate 90, 3 & 2.
I did this method and didn't have any kind of problem.
I guess if you find changing the springs too easy you can follow these instructions. 
Originally Posted by o2camaross
use this from ls1howto.com, B) This method is a bit more elegant. Rotate your motor over by hand until your cam gear and crank gear are dot to dot like you set them up as earlier. At this position, piston 1 and 6 should be at top dead center. You can change the 4 springs on these 2 cylinders now using the instructions below. After you change those 4, then, rotate the crankshaft a full 90 degrees, and the cam gear dot will turn 45 degrees, as if it is pointing to 7:30 if it were a clock. Now piston 8 and 5 are at the top and can be changed. Rotate another 90 degrees on the crank and your cam gear dot will now be at 9 o'clock. Piston 7 and 4 can now have their springs changed. And FINALLY, rotate the crank another 90 degrees and the cam gear dot will be at 10:30. You can now change your remaining four springs on piston 3 and 2.
Once again, that's 1 & 6, rotate 90, 8 & 5, rotate 90, 7 & 4, rotate 90, 3 & 2.
I did this method and didn't have any kind of problem.
Once again, that's 1 & 6, rotate 90, 8 & 5, rotate 90, 7 & 4, rotate 90, 3 & 2.
I did this method and didn't have any kind of problem.
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Originally Posted by 8a8mfh
I guess if you find changing the springs too easy you can follow these instructions.
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I got the springs done.....WOO-HOO... Now I have a new problem.... I used two 5/16 metal dowel rods and slid them into the holes, after spinning the cam rapidly by hand several times in each direction. The problem is with the rods in I can spin the cam and hear the lifters still moving and varified that with putting a pushrod down and touching the lifter while a freiend spun the cam and the lifter is still moving some. Is this ok to pull the cam now?????HELP....
Originally Posted by madclown
I got the springs done.....WOO-HOO... Now I have a new problem.... I used two 5/16 metal dowel rods and slid them into the holes, after spinning the cam rapidly by hand several times in each direction. The problem is with the rods in I can spin the cam and hear the lifters still moving and varified that with putting a pushrod down and touching the lifter while a freiend spun the cam and the lifter is still moving some. Is this ok to pull the cam now?????HELP....
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I need to know that if when the dowels are in (which they are) if you turn the cam will the lifters still be touching the cam on the top of the lobe? The dowel rods 5/16 are in but I can turn the cam and feel and hear the lifters still touching the cam. My question is when the dowel rods are in do the lifters still contact the cam lobes at any point?
they might make contact on the highest point. I would suggest pushing them all back down and spin the cam HARD several times, then slid the rods in. They are mainly there to prevent a lifter from dropping out of the hole entirely.
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O.K. so it is normal for the lifters to touch at the tips of the lobes. So as I remove the cam i just spin it to release the lobes. I just wanted to be sure before removing the cam. I guess I pull it then....Thanks and hold your breath for me......
The job of the rod is NOT to keep the cam lobe from touching the lifter completely, but to hold the lifter up once you have removed the cam and keep them up until the new cam is installed.
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Well I finally got the cam in. I just had to grow a pair and do it...WOO-HOO.. So now I have a question for you guys... The cam seems to sit further back when its pushed all the way in as compared to the stock cam. The cam is the TSP 228R on a 112 LSA. It almost seems as if the new cam is approx 1/4" shorter than the stock one. Is this normal??? Help Please..... 
P.S. I also got the Pacesetter LT's on and bolted up........WOO-HOO...
P.S. I also got the Pacesetter LT's on and bolted up........WOO-HOO... Last edited by madclown; Sep 14, 2007 at 08:04 PM.
