jimmyducati

iTrader: (3)

i have an 01 ss M6 with all the bolt ons (ported tb, intake bellow, tune, lt's, ory, gears) and want to upgrade the cam. it will be a daily driver, so gas milage is a concern (i get about 10-12 city 20-22 hwy now). i want to keep the stock heads and intake and maintain decent driveability, while making atleast 400 rwhp. i am willing/expecting to upgrade the rockers, springs and anything else valve train wise to get the best combo i can. im new to the ls1 community so id really like some solid advise so i can get this right the first time.

homerunhtr21

iTrader: (18)

A lot of people have made 400 with a 224 or similar cam and kept driveability. I just ordered the 228r from texas-speed and it is supposed to make good driveability also...Cam packages can be found at Texas-speed.com , Lgmotorsports.com and Thunderracing.com just to name a few.

jimmyducati

iTrader: (3)

thanks for the references, ill check them out

c0ncEpT

iTrader: (4)

A friend of mine had a 6 speed car with bolt ons and a 224 cam and he made 395rwhp

01redws6ta

see my sig...

massls1guy

iTrader: (9)

Not a popular opinion but on stock heads I say shoot for around 380hp peak to give you good daily driving and torque. There are some good threads around here about folks that went too big on a cam looking for a HP number. At the least you should read a lot of threads here before you decide.

2000Hawk

iTrader: (5)

Well you dont need to go huge on a cam to make 400hp. I chose the the MS3 and made 386rwhp with an LS1 intake, i should be over 400 with an LS6. Just remember bigger isn't always better, i got my MS3 to spray. Now im more than likely going to all motor, so for me to get into the power range of the MS3 quicker i'll need gears. Don't see it as having 400rwhp but having the best possible numbers below the curve. And if your doing a cam your better off doing the valvetrain.
-Joel

orangeapeel

iTrader: (18)

My 244/248 cam is at 421rwhp and 378rwtq. That is with worked 241's milled to .030. So he is right. Bigger isn't always better. I made 388 with my 222/226 and headers with an LS1 intake. M6 of course. You should be able to do it. You will want the support of bolt ons however.

Websy21

iTrader: (34)

I would agree with these guys, I too have decided on the comp 224/228 and have it nib in my garage. Jsut waiting to get some heads along with it

Patrick G

iTrader: (14)

As a general rule, you want to stay under 6 degrees of overlap at .050" for good daily driving street manners. Once you exceed that, power doesn't rise nearly as fast as the loss in driveability degrades. Call it the beginning point of diminishing returns.

That said, you can either go with a smaller cam on a narrow LSA for best power under the curve (which will win more stoplight battles) or go for a larger duration cam on a wider LSA. This combination will give you a hero peak power number, but it will typically get smoked by a "power under the curve" cam.

Here's a power under the curve cam: 226/226 110LSA +2

Here's a hero peak number cam: 234/234 114LSA +2

Notice, both cams have 6 degrees of overlap at .050". While the "hero" cam will make around 10 rwhp more in peak power, it will be down 30-40 hp and torque in the 3000-4000 rpm range. For most daily drivers and street warriors, that is not a good trade off. Basically the hero cam does not pull ahead of the "under the curve" cam until around 6000 rpm. If the majority of your racing is above 6000 rpm, then definitely go with the "hero" cam.

01redws6ta

My car put down well over 300 RWTQ at 2500 RPM FWIW with cam in sig. Peak torque at 4900 and peak RWHP at 6200.

N4cer

iTrader: (11)

Tons of cars doing just fine with a G5X2.