Here is the removal of the motor...
Heads and intake manifold off. Starting the teardown...

With the heads off I was able to unscrew the O2 sensors, disconnect the headers from the midsection and pull them right up and out. Also notice I've freed up the rear harnesses on this side.

Removing the radiator shroud in preparation to remove the radiator and front engine accessories.

Pulling the bottom coolant hoses

Pulling the top coolant hose.

With those out of the way the front of the engine is stripped, including alternator/power steering and bracket and A/C compressor.
Then I went over the entire engine and made sure there were no sensor wires plugged in and all harnesses were free from their clamps.
Then removed the exhaust midsection and removed my aluminum stiffener plate.
Then supported the torque tube, unbolted the bellhousing inspection cover, unbolted the torque tube from the bell housing, and unbolted the front control arms from the chassis.
Then I removed my front sway bar, power steering rack, and unbolted the ABS module bracket.
Then I harnessed the engine to the hoist and pulled up on it a little.
Then with a jack underneath the engine cradle I removed the front motor mount nuts and the cradle mounting nuts and lowered the cradle.
At this point although it wasn't necessary, I removed the motor mounts from the side of the motor. The extra room it gave was worth it.
After that the motor was pretty much free except for the input shaft. A little jockeying with the height and tilt of the motor and out it came.

Got it lifted over the fender and out in the open.


So far I have to thank my buddy Steve (BLACKTOP2000) for helping me with the difficult parts of removing this motor. I couldn't have done it without him.
Here is what I'm doing.
Lingenfelter LS2/403: Dragonslayer crank, Compstar rods, Mahle -9cc pistons, ARP head studs, high volume oil pump, new LS1 oil pan, windage tray with pickup and tube, new front cover, valley cover and rear cover with seals, new LS2 lifter trays.
Tony Mamo is taking my 205's and working some magic to repair, port, and set them up to accomodate the larger bore. We also discussed the valve train and will be using Comp Cams 242/242 .612"/.612" 114LSA 112ICL, Cadillac race lifters, my Jesel SS rockers, my Tony Mamo ported FAST 90, my Nick Williams 90 Throttle body and my flow matched 30lb/hr SVO injectors. Thanks Tony.
Yesterday I ordered a set of Kooks 1 7/8" headers with 3" stainless xpipe, high flow convertors, and 3" stainless midsection. Also getting them Jet-Hot coated.
Sorry I couldn't do more detail with the photos, I was under the car more than Steve.
There will be more coming as I go along with this. Like, I have 4:10's. Nice for the last motor, maybe to much for the new one...

 

Started stripping the block today. Found a lot more pieces of the piston and the reason the cylinder wall cracked. Not pretty
You can see how the washer just crushed through side of the piston

The force of the washer crushing through split the skirt off and must have thrust the piston sideways into the wall.

The pieces of the skirt I pulled out of the bottom of the motor.

---
The good news is if I can find a shop that can resleeve the block for #7 near Bergen County NJ I should be able to rebuild it. Anyone know of a shop that can resleeve this for me?

 

DUDE! what did you do give it a couple of 5k revs when it started knocking?? lol

 

carnage

 

wow-yr a fast mover-good luck with the new build i always wondered what you do with the torque tube when you pull the motor. just prop it up and pull the motor off the output shaft? now do you get the new motor lined up and back on the outputshaft?

 

I am merging your threads.

 

Makes more sense this way, thanks. I should have thought of this myself.

 

Heh, actually I killed it as soon as it lit because it sounded like I ran over a pile of wrenches with my lawnmower and I had my hand on the key. But by then it was too late, probably hit 50-60 times by then anyway.

 

I'm thinking do it just the opposite of what we did to get it out. The trick we found out was to lower the cradle completely out of the way. That way the motor could be lowered to the height of the torque tube and made level. Once this was done the motor just about slipped off the shaft. If we line it up the same way when we put the new one back in, it 'should' go right on... 'Famous last words'...