marthastewart

iTrader: (1)

I have a 99Z and dont really want a stall. I like how the stock one is. I know that a stall should come before a cam and that it will hurt performance by not doing so. I was wondering how many have a cam (im looking in the area of 230/232) and still the stock converter? Will it still be driveable or will it over power the breaks at a stop?

PREDATOR-Z

That is too big of a cam for no stall and your car will be a dog.
Look for a low overlap cam, something like a TR224 114, CheaTR, MTI Stealth 1 and Stealth 2, LPE GT2-3 etc...
Or I can give you specs on a custom cam

marthastewart

iTrader: (1)

I know down low it will drag and not put out crap, that I can handle, and I would think that when it works its way up to the 4k rpm's and on it should perform the same as with a stall. Its just the off the line that is bothering me as far as it serging its way through my brakes. I am looking for more of a highway killer than a off the line fast type of car.

slowandrichws6

iTrader: (2)

why are you running 3.73's if you want to be a highway killer??

PREDATOR-Z

The low overlap is so it doesn't pull on your brakes, not only that is unpleasant it is also dangerous.

The cam I gave you will all pull nicely in upper rpms.
I would say get a custom one just tailored for the effect desired.
Basicaly you have to keep the idle under 700rpm

Eurospec2

iTrader: (2)

My question is what reason do you have for not wanting to put a stall in?

bowe1632

iTrader: (1)

i donno about him...but i personally believe that the stall converter is the anti christ.

lol haha.

silver-mod-o

iTrader: (15)

have you driven one properly setup and tuned??

transamfreak01

iTrader: (8)

i had my yank ss 3600 put in and i can hardly even tell it is in there. i wish i would have gone 4000 or bigger. like i said though you cant even tell on mine that it has a stall unless you floor it. but yeah i agree with everyone up top, GET A STALL!!!!!

marthastewart

iTrader: (1)

To answer the question about the stall... Well I have actually never been in a car with a stall so have no experience with one other than what i read on these forums. And from what I have read a stall makes you have to rev up the rpms to 3600 or so to move. Considering my car is a daily driver and will see the track maybe 1 time a year, I dont want to push the gas 1/2 way down to move. I also have read that it will kill some of your power.

Slowandrichws6- have you driven a car with 2.73? That was the reason I put the 3.73's in there exactly. It was probably the best bang/buck mod I have done.

red01z28

iTrader: (9)

thats not true at all i have a yank pt4000 with a ms3 cam and it moves fine you can let your foot off the brakes at a red light and it moves like it has no stall but once you mash the gas its a monster!! you need to drive one i think you would really love it once you did.

Websy21

iTrader: (34)

LOL, that funny, but not the case. Not even clsoe, you obviously never read enough. I believe in the auto sticky you read on how they actually perform. You nowhere have to rev that high to move. Like the above guy said, he hads a 3600 and can't notice it. Did you read that either? I ahve a 3200 and can't notice it either until I floor it, like already mentioned above. I bought the car like this and if I were to do it again, I'd definelty get atleast a 4000+ next time. Get a stall than the right cam but nothing wron with the tr224 like Predator mentioned either.

151ls1

iTrader: (1)

I drove around with the stock stall and a 233/239 cam for a couple weeks before my 3600 stall was put in and it made me wish I had done the stall before the cam. Even with the tune, the idle couldn't be set where it needed to be with the stock converter. Had a lot of problems with the car wanting to cut out and the rpms dropping real low when coming to a stop. Also the car would try to roll through the brakes a lot and I would have to hold the brakes down hard whenever at a stop. The stall fixed all of this and didn't feel much different when driving around regularly. With my Yank 3600, the car moves forward fine by just letting off the brakes and you don't have to rev to 3600 to get going. I only really notice it at wot, that is when you see the rpms jump up. You should definitely consider getting a stall, especially if you're going with that size cam.

ryansm1

iTrader: (8)

I am currently driving with the G5-x3 (234/242 on 112) with the stock stall (and 2.73s). It's temporary as I am waiting for the stall to be cut open and shipped back.

It's not as terrible as everyone made it seem like it would be, though driving untuned was a disaster. I have EFIlive so I have been able to get it to drive reasonably well for the fact that it is a crappy setup.

It sucks from a stop, and you will need to use a bit more brake pedal to hold it still. Mine is idling at 750-800rpm currently and pushes a bit, but it's not like you are going to go careening into the side of a building unless you are an idiot.

It can be done and isn't ideal, but if you never plan on getting a stall, don't get such a large cam. I would not drive this way forever, though.

Cliff: it can be done, but shouldn't.

marthastewart

iTrader: (1)

Well after reading this its decided for sure, Stall will be ordered.

Who makes a reasonable converter that you guys have had good luck with. I dont want the most expensive one either, remember this is for a daily driver that I am only looking to be in the low 400 hp range. The lowest priced with still being a quality piece is what I am looking for.

Websy21

iTrader: (34)

Vigilante or Yank are what I would reccommend, I've never priced them out but these are among the best and get minimum a 3200 or bigger

PREDATOR-Z

Always get the best or don't get it at all.
VIG or Yank and for a 23x/23x duration cam, VIG3200 (actualy stalls around 3500) is really good and Yank SS3600

dannyz

I have had my fuddle for two years now, w/o any issues at all.
don't know how many bottles of nitrous I have gone thru, but thus far my 'verter is working as good asd the day it was put in.
I also sport 2.73 gears.
I would think that if my fuddle can handle a 125 shot, [ around 100 to the wheels] it should stand up to a cam easy.

gruntwork

iTrader: (2)

SS3600

By the way, my car passes NY state emissions, is very comfortable to drive, has A/C, gets 25MPG on the highway, drove from San Diego-CA 3000 miles to Long Island-NY, and runs and dynos the numbers in my sig.

224 + SS3600 FT-streetable-W!!

99bluefirebird

iTrader: (8)

Definetly get the stall. I didn't and now have to fix it. The problem is your cam won't make too much power until over 3k, and until then it won't want to downshift because it won't sense much engine acceleration. Thus from a 40mph role it will only shift into 3rd, not second. The pulling on the brakes makes me put the car in neutral when I stop. Plus the downshifts when slowing down really drop the rpms. I would stick with a 3000 stall converter for your goals, it will keep the gas mileage reasonable and be tight enough for highway racing. Also be sure to build up the tranny or it will be toast soon and you will have to take everything back out. I would get the performabuilt stage 2 and 3000 stall if I did it over.