Iron stroker?
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From: Hartsdale, NY
Iron stroker? I'm thinking about an iron stroker...
Block = new LQ4 iron block (clearanced??)
Crank = 4.125
Pistons = forged dished -15
Rods = 6.125 forged
Car is street car - no racing, NOS or forced induction - just a straight motor setup
Questions:
1. A good idea or should I go with something else?
2. I assume no machining will be required if all parts are new?
3. Will seller balance before shipping?
4. Any other considerations for assembly?
Block = new LQ4 iron block (clearanced??)
Crank = 4.125
Pistons = forged dished -15
Rods = 6.125 forged
Car is street car - no racing, NOS or forced induction - just a straight motor setup
Questions:
1. A good idea or should I go with something else?
2. I assume no machining will be required if all parts are new?
3. Will seller balance before shipping?
4. Any other considerations for assembly?
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From: Grove City Ohio/Port Washington L.I sometimes
Re: Iron stroker? You will have a strong block thats for sure.However I question whether the iron block only weights 75lbs more than stock block.Considering I had an iron block and did before and after weights and IMHO 100-105lbs is more accurate.The front of your car will sag about 1.5 inches more than stock also.I would use all the parts you suggested but stay with the factory alum block.The small increase in cubes doesnt offset the extra lbs.
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From: Hartsdale, NY
Re: Iron stroker? Hey 422:
are you saying go with the 3.9 bore in the alumium block and go with a 4.125 stroker crank?\
What does this work out to in cubes - 383?
I dont want to spend the bucks on a Darton-sleeved aluminum block...if that is what you are suggesting...
are you saying go with the 3.9 bore in the alumium block and go with a 4.125 stroker crank?\
What does this work out to in cubes - 383?
I dont want to spend the bucks on a Darton-sleeved aluminum block...if that is what you are suggesting...
Re: Iron stroker?
Hey 422:
are you saying go with the 3.9 bore in the alumium block and go with a 4.125 stroker crank?\
What does this work out to in cubes - 383?
are you saying go with the 3.9 bore in the alumium block and go with a 4.125 stroker crank?\
What does this work out to in cubes - 383?
Re: Iron stroker?
You will have a strong block thats for sure.However I question whether the iron block only weights 75lbs more than stock block.Considering I had an iron block and did before and after weights and IMHO 100-105lbs is more accurate.The front of your car will sag about 1.5 inches more than stock also.I would use all the parts you suggested but stay with the factory alum block.The small increase in cubes doesnt offset the extra lbs.
I think PSJ had measured both blocks at one time and I thought his difference was closer to 80lbs.
1.5 inches???? Thats alot of sag for just 92lbs! I'll have to put my 95lb wife on my hood and see how much mine sags. Just seams like too much for those springs to drop that much. I'm going with 6.0 iron because its much cheaper to build and should handle the 15lbs of boost I'm going to throw at it.
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From: Hartsdale, NY
Re: Iron stroker? Rodent:
Yeh, I like your thinking....after all, my F-body is not a real sports car and all the roads where I drive are straight not curvey ...so who cares about not being able to corner like a Porsche. I'll take the extra 80lbs on the nose and get a bunch more HP...
A Darton-sleeved block is too pricey at $3,500....give me a break!
...I routinely blow their doors off now so with a iron stroker I could also blow their roof and other body parts off too...
...I was actually going to buy one at one point ...drove many Porsches ...they are "no power pigs"...you have to wind out the motors to 6K before anything happens... they cost WAY too much for what you get...
Yeh, I like your thinking....after all, my F-body is not a real sports car and all the roads where I drive are straight not curvey ...so who cares about not being able to corner like a Porsche. I'll take the extra 80lbs on the nose and get a bunch more HP...
A Darton-sleeved block is too pricey at $3,500....give me a break!
...I routinely blow their doors off now so with a iron stroker I could also blow their roof and other body parts off too...
...I was actually going to buy one at one point ...drove many Porsches ...they are "no power pigs"...you have to wind out the motors to 6K before anything happens... they cost WAY too much for what you get...
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From: Grove City Ohio/Port Washington L.I sometimes
Re: Iron stroker? Resleeved block from ARE is $2400.00.Why not use your factory block (not re-sleeved)with stroker crank.You would have a 383.If the GM service manual says 92 lbs I would believe that for the iron block.I know it is more than 75 lbs.My car went to ARE stock,came back with iron block ATI D-1 and chrome-moly roll bar weight increase 245 lbs
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From: Hartsdale, NY
Re: Iron stroker? Does the ARE resleeved block use a Darton sleave? I've read where Darton's are the only reliable way to increase bore size in an aluminum block...?
Lingenfelter sells Darton blocks for about $3,500.
Lingenfelter sells Darton blocks for about $3,500.
Re: Iron stroker? I wouldnt worry too much about the extra weight unless you are trying to build an ultra light racer. My car does not sag one bit...as a matter of fact it rides high. I have removed all the emmissions equipment, relocated batt to rear and a few other small things. No problem!
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From: Grove City Ohio/Port Washington L.I sometimes
Re: Iron stroker? Yes it is a Darton sleeve.They don't have the problems that other shops have.The ARE shop car is capable of mid 8s with this block.I'm using it and plan on putting a huge shot of nitrous to it.If you due the math on the price difference from purchase of 6.0 block,machine work etc it looks very attractive.You could always call Barry at ARE he would be more informative than me.A quick call could be very enlightening.Your looking at a 1500-1700 $ difference without the extra pounds.
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From: Grove City Ohio/Port Washington L.I sometimes
Re: Iron stroker? I wouldnt worry too much about the extra weight unless you are trying to build an ultra light racer. My car does not sag one bit...as a matter of fact it rides high. I have removed all the emmissions equipment, relocated batt to rear and a few other small things. No problem!
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From: Hartsdale, NY
Re: Iron stroker? Ok Thanks...
I also owned an 95 LT1 Camaro a few years back. It had an iron block and alumium heads....
...OK so my LS1 SS corners better than that car but I did not consider the LT1 as a dog either...
So I guess $1,800 or so is a big difference for me... ...I'm not sure I would go the Darton sleaved block to save 80lbs... ..it does not seem worth it to me...
It seems a while back iron blocked motors were more common but now it seems more people are going with aluminum...probably a function of more choices being available today, right?
Does anyone expect prices of Darton sleaved blocks to decline any time soon?
I also owned an 95 LT1 Camaro a few years back. It had an iron block and alumium heads....
...OK so my LS1 SS corners better than that car but I did not consider the LT1 as a dog either...
So I guess $1,800 or so is a big difference for me... ...I'm not sure I would go the Darton sleaved block to save 80lbs... ..it does not seem worth it to me...
It seems a while back iron blocked motors were more common but now it seems more people are going with aluminum...probably a function of more choices being available today, right?
Does anyone expect prices of Darton sleaved blocks to decline any time soon?
Re: Iron stroker?
Your loking at a 1500-1700 $ difference without the extra pounds.
Re: Iron stroker? Robert said in another thread...
If cost is a factor than the iron block would be less expensive.
If I did it all over again I would save up and get a C5R block.
Hey Pro Stock:
So you owned an iron blocked big-cubed stroker, right?
If you had to go with the stroker again, would you go iron or aluminum?
Cost is definately a factor for me...
did the car handle like an LT1 iron block F-body?
why are so many against a "boat ancor" iron block?
So you owned an iron blocked big-cubed stroker, right?
If you had to go with the stroker again, would you go iron or aluminum?
Cost is definately a factor for me...
did the car handle like an LT1 iron block F-body?
why are so many against a "boat ancor" iron block?
If I did it all over again I would save up and get a C5R block.
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From: Austin, TX
Re: Iron stroker? I think if you look...you can get a C5R block and moldex crank (used of course) for 4-5g's. not bad if you ask me. also, get the iron block, but only use a 4" stroke. NA, it will work better. take the money you save over the resleeved block and buy some T&D rockers and crane liftes....SOLID ROLLA baby!
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From: Hartsdale, NY
Re: Iron stroker? Ryan:
I like low end torque in a street car; would'nt a longer stroke give you lower end tork???? ..i already have full roller rockers and "r" lifters....i had not considered a solid lifter cam, however...
isn;t a 4" stroker crank very similar to the stock crank? ...is this worth it?
I like low end torque in a street car; would'nt a longer stroke give you lower end tork???? ..i already have full roller rockers and "r" lifters....i had not considered a solid lifter cam, however...
isn;t a 4" stroker crank very similar to the stock crank? ...is this worth it?