I did H/C recently, here are the dyno numbers:
http://www.putfile.com/pic.php?img=6993895

Blue line is with bolt ons: ported TB, Lid, dynatech LT's & cat'd Y, magnaflow & tuned. 349hp/364tq

Red line added TR224 114lsa, 243 stage 1 heads (decked 0.015, stock graphite gaskets), FRPP 30# injectors, PAC 1218 springs, SLP pulley & tuned. 391hp/384tq

I thought my H/C combo would give me 10-15 more for peak numbers but I'm still really happy with the performance. It can pull low RPMs in 6th gear on the highway no problem, and is much stronger over the whole rev range.

At first I was only going to do the cam but I have over 110k miles and I wanted to swap out the lifters. Since the heads were coming off I tried to do a low cost upgrade over the 241's. Now I wish I had gone for some nicer stage 2 heads.

 

I have the same cam and went with the stage 2 heads Mustang dynoed with cam only at 350 hp. so I can let you know what the heads do in the spring when I hit the dyno sorry I cant sooner too much snow haha.

 

To be completely honest with you..i wouldnt get any cam until you get a stall...but out of those i would go with the TR224...i have that cam on a 112LSA and i really like it so far...i didnt lose any driveability, no significant drop in gas mileage, and it has alot more power thru the entire rpm range..

 

i agree:
stall + h/c
it doesnt have to be a really radical stall but youll be glad you spent the extra money and time for the stall once the heads and cam are in

 

I would think that if you want a daily driver and never going to the track then the GM Hot Cam would be best for the street IMO. You never stated what your max rpm was going to be. If you are make your shift at <6000 RPM then GM Hot Cam. Out of the three you picked. From what you have stated you my want to look at MTI B1 cam 220/220 112.

 

i'm running the hot cam, puny but pulled 12.2et at 112mph 3750lbs. and with the 150wet it ran 11.29 at 124, my redline is at 6.4k.

 

You forgot about custom grind cams, this cam that pat g speced me will have great street manners.....good power band and should dyno over 400rwhp

232/232 .612"/.604" 110LSA +2

 

check this out-228 cam
https://ls1tech.com/forums/dynamometer-results-comparisons/844525-01z28-cam-only-our-228-cam.html

 

A stock cammed motor with a 3500 stall would crush a 224-228 cammed motor with stock stall. A stall should be the first performance mod you do to an A4 equipped LS1. If you plan on sticking with stock stall, you'll get best 1/4 mile performance by going smaller than 224 in duration. We've proven it for 10 years.

 

I have a Hotcam, and you don't need a huge donkey dick lift cam to make power!
you are gonna get alot of grief about the HOTCAM being out dated and stuff like that, but how out dated can a cam be? come on
I made 406hp and 378ft lbs with the mods in my sig, If you dont believe me call Straightline and ask for Big Mike he tuned it!
Without the FAST it dynoed 393hp and 370ft lbs
here is a sound clip of it un tuned...
View Video on FQuick

here is a video of straightline tuning it without the FAST intake or 85mm MAFS.

View Video on FQuick

It is easy on the springs, I can drive with the ac on without the worry about it stalling out on me. Good luck and get what YOU want!

 

Do a search on the TR224. It's a well proven cam. I made 385rwhp cam only. ran 12.2 @ 117 first time at the track with it.
Click here to see Video

 

get a tsp torquer cam

 

You mean the NO TQ cam.

 

Get the vengeance racing cam if you want to:

1. Have your valves flycut your pistons for you
b. Make 900 rwhp on their dyno but 400 on anyone else's
III. Get beat by a car with a much smaller TSP cam.

THAT IS ALL.

 

Let's keep this technical, no flaming. Most of you are not listening to the OP. If you did, you would not be recommending such big cams for a person wanting to run the stock torque converter. That's a recipe for disappointment. Either get a converter first, then choose a larger cam or select a much smaller stick if you're keeping the stock stall.

 

Ever consider doing gears and a stall? Or some chassis parts?

You can see by a lot of these posts adding power doesn't always make you go a lot faster.

A bunch of these cars are running 1/2 second or more slower than their cars should for the mph they are trapping.

Just something to consider, without traction adding more and more power is pretty much useless unless you're into high speed freeway racing and start a race at 60-70 mph.

Also like patrick said, bigger cams require more stall and more gear and move the power range up, for a street car you want to maximize the power in the range you drive and your gears and stall work in.

Yes you can add a big cam, it'll make more power on a dyno.

Then you can race a stock cammed car with a stall, some gears and a chassis that hooks and it'll spank your *** and you'll try to play catch up.

You can run a big cam and say you ran 12.4@117, and then watch a car run the same et at 108 mph and scratch your head.

Just my opinion for whatever it is worth.

 

2800-3000 stall, then TR224.

 

I totally agree my buddie with a 99 trans am with a 224 cam I believe and stock stall also 273 rear end from a roll he pulls me but from a dig with both of us on drag radials I crush him and he cant reel me in until high speends like over 100. I have a stock cam stock 323 rearend and a 3000stall in my car along with some other small boltons and out of the hole he cant catch me. So you definetly need a stall in the car even if its something smaller like I have youll be happy you did it

 

That also has alot to do with his 273s...its gonna be a dog regardless out the hole.

 

I have no experience with any of those 3 cams but I do know the TR224 is a very proven choice. Its been around a long time, a lot of people have run it and made good power with it time and time again.