New style rear-main seal, opinions???
#1
New style rear-main seal, opinions???
I bought a new rear cover for my 383 build. The cover came with the rear-main already installed. I noticed that the old/original seal "lip" leaned towards the inside of the engine. The new seal/cover combo has the seal "lip" leaning towards the outside of the engine (see attached picture). I did some research (here) and found that this new cover/seal combo is not uncommon, BUT I am looking for any opinions and experiences with this new type...
(notice the white plastic insert that keeps the seal "lip" pointing outward...)
Thanks,
...any info appreciated
(notice the white plastic insert that keeps the seal "lip" pointing outward...)
Thanks,
...any info appreciated
#2
I had a leak from my rear main area from from day one (bought the car new). 3 warr. repairs latter ( I hate having someone else work on my cars) still had the leak, not a bad one but a leak. I decided to live with it until I had the time to do it myself. I was also worried about a crank with to much run-out or a porise block. I did my H/C job 7k ago. I also replaced the cluch and did the rear main and both cover seals and the oil pan seal at the same time. I was told by the GM guy they reviesed the seal. Everything looked fine from the previuos repairs (clean work). Run-out was ok. I made sure all the surfaced were lined up correctly when putting it back together. Dry as can be for 7k now. I'm not sure if it was the seal or if they didn't line something up correctly. The leak was a pita to pin point.
Sorry for the long responce. I hope this helps.
Sorry for the long responce. I hope this helps.
#4
I had a leak from my rear main area from from day one (bought the car new). 3 warr. repairs latter ( I hate having someone else work on my cars) still had the leak, not a bad one but a leak. I decided to live with it until I had the time to do it myself. I was also worried about a crank with to much run-out or a porise block. I did my H/C job 7k ago. I also replaced the cluch and did the rear main and both cover seals and the oil pan seal at the same time. I was told by the GM guy they reviesed the seal. Everything looked fine from the previuos repairs (clean work). Run-out was ok. I made sure all the surfaced were lined up correctly when putting it back together. Dry as can be for 7k now. I'm not sure if it was the seal or if they didn't line something up correctly. The leak was a pita to pin point.
Sorry for the long responce. I hope this helps.
Sorry for the long responce. I hope this helps.
#5
^ I believe thats what he's saying. That he replaced the dealerships old version with the new version and has been leak free ever since. I'm curious what others think of this new seal as well, but if the old one is out of production it's pretty much a moot point.
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#8
Because the new seal is tappered in the opposite direction I don't think you would run into problems with the lip rolling. I just used a straight edge to make sure all the housings / pan were aligned.
#11
There is a possibility that some dumbass installed the seal into the rear cover you bought backwards....not everyone knows what they are doing. I would check to see which way its supposed to be.
#12
Part number is #89060436.. I have an extra if anyone needs one $10... Anyone know how far to install this seal (push it all the way in) Or only push it in until its flush with the rear cover..
#13
#14
yes there is a new tool, the new seal is actually a "double seal",, with a sleave built in to it that presses onto the crankshaft flange, the sealing surface of the seal no longer rides on the crankshaft flange but is internal to the seal itself
#15
Sounds like the seal should be pushed all the way in then correct?
#16
Where do we pick up the tool from?