View Poll Results: Would you use a stroker crank rebuilding your engine?
Yes, go for it!
26
92.86%
NOOOO, dont even think about it!
0
0%
Indifferent
2
7.14%
Voters: 28. You may not vote on this poll
Stroker or not?
Thread Starter
Teching In
Joined: Jun 2007
Posts: 46
Likes: 0
From: Greenville, sc
Stroker or not? the first day i had my car and i spun a bearing, thats what i get for buying a pre modded car...since im most likely going to have to replace the crank, i would like opinions on wether or not to get a stroker. how many of you would or wouldnt and how much power gain would i get out of a 383 stroker? assuming it already has a mild cam, and full intake and exhaust.
TECH Fanatic
Joined: Nov 2004
Posts: 1,251
Likes: 0
From: Tuscaloosa, AL.
It will cost almost as much to get a 383 stroker plus your blcok rebuilt, than it would to buy a forge 402 from a sponser. Could always just get the crank turned, and put new bearings in it. That is what i did. Sucks man, sorry about your car. Look at my sig, we are in the same boat.
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All else being equal, a short stroke engine and a long stroke engine will make about the same horsepower. The difference will be the long stroke engine makes horsepower at a lower rpm, which means it makes MORE torque. Same horsepower, more torque. The long stroke engine wins. Over-simplified, the airflow potential of the head determines horsepower, but the displacement determines rpm, and therefore, torque.
Stroke it, bore it then boost it. You'll have a monster on your hands.
Stroke it, bore it then boost it. You'll have a monster on your hands.
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Brett Foote
TECH Fanatic
Joined: Nov 2004
Posts: 1,251
Likes: 0
From: Tuscaloosa, AL.
All else being equal, a short stroke engine and a long stroke engine will make about the same horsepower. The difference will be the long stroke engine makes horsepower at a lower rpm, which means it makes MORE torque. Same horsepower, more torque. The long stroke engine wins. Over-simplified, the airflow potential of the head determines horsepower, but the displacement determines rpm, and therefore, torque.
Stroke it, bore it then boost it. You'll have a monster on your hands.
Stroke it, bore it then boost it. You'll have a monster on your hands.
TECH Fanatic
Joined: Nov 2004
Posts: 1,251
Likes: 0
From: Tuscaloosa, AL.
yea, but the kid has a spun bearing and is looking at building a reliable DD. Not a force fed track car! Not saying that FI is unrealiable, but it is a little hit and miss. ask any of the FI guys.
TECH Fanatic
Joined: Nov 2004
Posts: 1,251
Likes: 0
From: Tuscaloosa, AL.
Do yourself a favor and have the shop or you if DYI check the bearings. Hell, just get some ARP rod bolts, and new bearings. Its cheap insurence. Good luck bud, and don't be pessimistic. I am sure your build will go better than mine.
You're hinting at it, but that's alright. I agree. Those who don't put the right controls on a forced induction system experience hit and miss results. Especially when they don't do enough R&D before hand.
TECH Fanatic
Joined: Nov 2004
Posts: 1,251
Likes: 0
From: Tuscaloosa, AL.
Yea, I really don't know enough about it to argue the point. I do know that if you are going to do it, you should commit now and buy a purpose built boost motor. Im talking 8.5:1 compression, boost pistons... the works. I think the guys who have the most issues are the guys who Cheap out(cut corners) and the guys who decide to do FI on motors that are not built for them. For instance, you wouldn't want to just slap a procharger on my engine @ 13.5:1. Well actually, as it sits it probably wouldn't matter. Whats it gonna do, spin a bearing??? lol!
8.5:1 compression is most definitely not required. Neither is 8:1, 7:1, 9:1, 10:1...ect. There are many variables that go into determining ideal compression, static and dynamic. I invite you to buy and read the book "Maximum Boost" by Corkey Bell and learn the basics about turbocharging. It will be a good start down your road to learning the ins and outs of boosting a motor. Definitely read the book if you get the chance. We (enthusiasts) spend hundreds even thousands on our vehicles, yet surprisingly how many of us own even 2 or 3 technical pieces of literature at home? Magazines don't count. $20-30 spent on a book is well worth it.
Last edited by InchUp; Mar 9, 2008 at 01:57 AM.
TECH Fanatic
Joined: Nov 2004
Posts: 1,251
Likes: 0
From: Tuscaloosa, AL.
8.5:1 compression is most definitely not required. Neither is 8:1, 7:1, 9:1, 10:1...ect. There are many variables that go into determining ideal compression, static and dynamic. I invite you to buy and read the book "Maximum Boost" by Corkey Bell and learn the basics about turbocharging. It will be a good start down your road to learning the ins and outs of boosting a motor. Definitely read the book if you get the chance. We (enthusiasts) spend hundreds even thousands on our vehicles, yet surprisingly how many of us own even 2 or 3 technical pieces of literature at home? Magazines don't count. $20-30 spent on a book is well worth it.
There is no such thing as the 'best' or 'ideal' compression ratio. The simple fundamentals are such that the lower the compression ratio, the easier it is to produce a lot of boost with no detonation, however on the other hand the higher the compression ratio, the greater the fuel efficiency and non-boosted throttle response. You are certainly on the right train of thought with the pesky gas laws associated with compressing a gas, like oxygen, when passed through a compressor (turbo or supercharger). You are also on the right track with trying to avoid detonation at all costs, however, as I said earlier there are more variables to play in that are more important. Such a variable is the added bennefit of being able to take that increased temperature charge out of the compressed air through means of a heat exchanger, or around here called an intercooler. Serious efforts with intercooling allow a builder to have their cake and eat it too by being able to have a motor that is quick to respond while sacrificing no boost potential in the upper rev range where the compressor exceeds at doing its job. Such other variables include block and head material, cooling system of the engine, camshaft profile, octane fuel availability, spark plug heat range, advance/retardation of the timing, intercooler and compressor efficiency, amount of boost pressure, BOV's and finally electronic safety controls. I'm sure I have forgotten somethings but those are the basics I can remember off the top of my head.
I still encourage you to pick up the book. It's an enlightening read.
I still encourage you to pick up the book. It's an enlightening read.
If you'd like the complex answer PM me. I don't want to continue to hijack Vette beater's thread anymore than we already have.
