Changing the valve seals need help.
Changing the valve seals need help. Im changing the valve seals and was wondering how you keep the valve from falling? I was told that I could use a compression tester and that would be okay? If so would I go through like im doing a compression test and do one piston at a time? Any help would be awesome.
Thanks, Derek
Thanks, Derek
yeah use a compression tester line with compressed air attached to it instead of a gauge. The compressed air will hold the valves up. Swap out those 2 and move on to the next cylinders valves.
Trending Topics
LS1 Tech Stories
The Best V8 Stories One Small Block at Time
6 Common C5 Corvette Failures and What's Involved In Repairing Them
Pouria Savadkouei
Retro Modern Bandit Pontiac Trans AM Comes With Burt Reynolds' Autograph
Verdad Gallardo
Top 10 Greatest Cadillac V Series Performance Models Ever, Ranked
Pouria Savadkouei
Top 10 Most Powerful Chevy Trucks Ever Made!
Hennessey's New Supercharged Silverado ZR2 Has 700 HP
Verdad Gallardo
Coachbuilt N2A Anteros Is an LS2-Powered C6 Corvette In Italian Clothes
Verdad Gallardo
Awesome K5 Blazer Restomod Comes With C7 Corvette Power
Verdad Gallardo
10 Camaros You Should Never Buy
10 LS Engine Myths That Refuse to Die
Verdad Gallardo You can probably get a cheap one from lowes/home depot or sears. They are good to have around the house anyway. Not a bad investment.
Or you might be able to borrow one from one of the 1,000,000 F-body owners in the DFW area.
Or you might be able to borrow one from one of the 1,000,000 F-body owners in the DFW area.
i never trusted the compressed air method. I prefer to use the TDC method. You just need to find when the piston gets to TDC using something in the number 1 cylinder spark plug hole. Once you know cyl 1 TDC, you can follow the method from the ls1howto cam swap article. mark the pulley with a sticker or something so you can keep track of your crank angle.
Just a little information. While trouble shooting a burned valve, I hooked and air compressor up to find if it would go through the intake, blowby the piston, or out the exhaust. Cylinder #1 went through the exhaust and cylinder #3 pushed the piston back down and started blowing through the intake. #1 and #3 had the burned plugs...
Moral of my experience is that if you used the compressed air method, you have to use a tool to keep the engine from rotating..
Moral of my experience is that if you used the compressed air method, you have to use a tool to keep the engine from rotating..
First things first brad8266 seems to know his ****, as for the renting of the compressor you could go to walmart and buy a 20.00 air tank and have there service department fill it and theres your air cheap.
If you ever had a valve leak an drop you wouldn't be very happy with using compressed air. For this type of job, I would use TDC or get a 1/8" braided nylon rope, remove all the rockers then one cylinder at a time as the piston nears the top feed in the rope through the spark plug hole. Gently rotate until the piston stops and the rope is squished against the valves. Now do your work on that cylinder. Once done, rotate the motor backwards, remove rope and move to the next cylinder. I've done this many times and there are no worries about a dropped valve.
I think if your valves are leaking that much to where 100 lbs of air is applied and a valve drops then you should probably be pulling the heads off for a valve job too because those valves or seats are jacked up.
But yeah using the tdc method will work also.
But yeah using the tdc method will work also.
