Assassin

iTrader: (3)

what would I need for the bottom end to handle a large dose of nitrous, without having to worry too much about the life of the motor, I'm thinkin of corse forged pistons, and rods, new bearings, rings all that duh, but would I NEED a crank also, I'm on a very tight budget and I think I could afford the pistons and rods, is there anything I should hold of on to do a one time build, I have stock heads now, with aftermarket springs, pushrods, cam, I'm doing all the work so I'm not losing money there and I know its going to get done right, any more imput, thanks, lemme know if this should go in the nitrous section, laterz


edit: if you have a link with any parts and prices that would kick ***

DaleMX

iTrader: (4)

https://ls1tech.com/threads/showflat...rue#Post118786

Search on "Crank" in No2 section. Looks like the problem is uneven NO2 distrubition causing stress on the crank and rods.

What type of system are you going to use? What do you consider a "Big Shot" to be.

BLK02WS6

iTrader: (2)

Thanks DaleMX - that confirms some of my thoughts on N2O. I won't be running it for some time (can't cage the car quite yet), but when I do, it will be a nozzle system with a progressive controller!

Nothing like direct port and having control!

Our manifolds don't seem to great as far as distribution - large amounts of N20 through the TB doesn't seem like a good idea.

Assassin

iTrader: (3)

I consider a big shot on an ls1 around the 250 range, making it an even distrabution should help out a bunch, there's even one guy who'z goin to try it on the stock bottom end, there wuz somebody who blew a hole in the block on a 200 shot, does anybody know if that wuz a shot through the throttle body or a 8 fogger system

CAT3

iTrader: (9)

Assassin, Todd B. (Recklass) was the hole in the block on a 200, and it was on a custom DP setup. I heard that one of the guys who built one like his mention that Recklass did not prime the fuel system, which in turn leaned out the bottom, but I believe Todd said it was blown on the top.
I may be the one you were talking about, as for stock bottom end. I am goin to spray a 200shot, progressively controleld(PC) on the Stock bottom. Though about a 300, but by the time I delay (controll) the shot it would be at the top end only, so I will play around with a 200 and think it will be quicker than the 150 I wet kit now.
Nitrated crank is a good idea, but the stocker can handle a lot of power. Problem with nitrous is unless you go PC route your hitting the internals a heavy dose of "wake the f*** up" more so than many setups. Forged internals will be coming sometime next year, or this winter.

Good-luck.

Vents

iTrader: (9)

a good set of rods and pistions, (diamond, or JE. Weisco's dont have a good top ringland for N20 IMO.) you should be fine on the stock crank. i've yet to see anyone break one, and they've run in the 9's. good CR, (11.somethin:1 - 12.somethin:1) balance work, proper ring gap, a good standard split cam to bleed a little CR off, .580 plus lift, good fuel, and take out some timing. nothin to it ;D

ls1290

iTrader: (20)

A good bottum end that would handle a large( 300hp ) nitrous shot would consist of:

- billet main caps from Katech with ARP main bolts
- forged crankshaft. a cryo treated stock crank could work also
- forged rods with ARP rod bolts. I consider this a must!
- forged nitrous pistons. Having the coating will help distribute and dissipate the heat better.
- ARP heads studs

As far as the nitrous system, I would only use a DP Fogger when running over a 150hp shot. For the secondary fuel system, make sure you have a pump with variable pressure. The pump is very important with a rail setup like the NX one, it needs higher pressure than a system using distribution blocks.

Lastly, tuning is everything. You can this break a rod or nuke a piston if you are running lean or have lean spikes.

C4VetteLS1

amazing that you would need to change the maincaps.

we have factory SIX bolt mains, how on earth should we need better main caps???????

Vents

iTrader: (9)

lol!!

an extra 50 HP and billet becomes a necessity...

LS1290, just harassing ya. it'd be a good idea if you had alot of money to throw into a motor, but i dont think it's absolutely necissicary.

head studs also a good idea and i'd do that just out of convenience, because it'd make changing gaskets easier anyway. aside from that, i dont see why a stock crank wouldnt be able to take a 300 hit. i think i'll give it a shot now since you mentioned it. just to do it. ;D

Assassin

iTrader: (3)

yes, let us know how it goes

Pro Stock John

iTrader: (34)

People have been spraying big shots on LS1's since 1999.

Back in 1999, we put two stages of nitrous on a 98Z (Hacker Joe's car) and it went from 11.49@116mph on one stage to 10.81@124mph on two stages... It was a custom wet/dry setup with an inline fuel pump. There were a few guys back then including Terry Burger who were doing this with STOCK longblocks like Joe's car.

I don't think you need a forged crank to spray 250 but you definitely need to go over the fuel system.

PSJ

Assassin

iTrader: (3)

do you know how long these motors lasted?, thanks