Lifter install ?
Lifter install ? Well if anyone has followed my thread about the machine gun noise I'm having its looking like I collapsed a stock lifter.
I'm going to be using the ls7 lifters when i swap them out.
I'm just wondering if there is a write up, or any tips anyone has. Also when i order the lifters should I get new trays too?
Anyone have part numbers for the GM lifters?
I'm going to be using the ls7 lifters when i swap them out.
I'm just wondering if there is a write up, or any tips anyone has. Also when i order the lifters should I get new trays too?
Anyone have part numbers for the GM lifters?
Well if anyone has followed my thread about the machine gun noise I'm having its looking like I collapsed a stock lifter.
I'm going to be using the ls7 lifters when i swap them out.
I'm just wondering if there is a write up, or any tips anyone has. Also when i order the lifters should I get new trays too?
Anyone have part numbers for the GM lifters?
I'm going to be using the ls7 lifters when i swap them out.
I'm just wondering if there is a write up, or any tips anyone has. Also when i order the lifters should I get new trays too?
Anyone have part numbers for the GM lifters?
I like the mls gaskets, but I use power adders.
You can use this how-to for a heads/cam swap as a guide: http://ls1howto.com/index.php?article=2
For Parts would:
- Cometic .030" MLS gaskets
- New GM head bolts M8 and M11
- GM LS7 lifters (what trays should I get LS1, LS2, LS7? Or are they all the same?)
-Trays
-Valve cover gaskets (damn reusable things always seem to get bigger)
Those head gaskets would not give you sufficient piston to head clearance on a stock short block. you need to go with at least .040" thick.
Also, use the LS2 lifter trays when you are at it, they are a little thicker than the LS1 trays, we sell them for about $8 each. I can put together a package deal for the whole job if you like.
Thanks,
Shane
Also, use the LS2 lifter trays when you are at it, they are a little thicker than the LS1 trays, we sell them for about $8 each. I can put together a package deal for the whole job if you like.
Thanks,
Shane
When I did my heads & cam swap I installed the LS7 lifters in stock trays with over 100k miles on them & haven't had a single issue. I say alot of people replace them for no friggin reason except someone else mentioned they should. Unless there is damage to your trays thats just a extra expense you can avoid.
I have over 120k on my stock short block & have been driving my H/C combo daily for a year now without a single issue & I didn't drill or replace the lifter trays like some people insist on.
Also you should NOT rely on the lifter trays to hold the lifters up during a cam swap. If you do, you deserve to drop a lifter for being lazy. The proper method is to use a long dowl rod to hold them in place or if the heads are comming off anyway just unbolt the lifter trays & remove them.
I have over 120k on my stock short block & have been driving my H/C combo daily for a year now without a single issue & I didn't drill or replace the lifter trays like some people insist on.
Also you should NOT rely on the lifter trays to hold the lifters up during a cam swap. If you do, you deserve to drop a lifter for being lazy. The proper method is to use a long dowl rod to hold them in place or if the heads are comming off anyway just unbolt the lifter trays & remove them.
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When I did my heads & cam swap I installed the LS7 lifters in stock trays with over 100k miles on them & haven't had a single issue. I say alot of people replace them for no friggin reason except someone else mentioned they should. Unless there is damage to your trays thats just a extra expense you can avoid.
I have over 120k on my stock short block & have been driving my H/C combo daily for a year now without a single issue & I didn't drill or replace the lifter trays like some people insist on.
Also you should NOT rely on the lifter trays to hold the lifters up during a cam swap. If you do, you deserve to drop a lifter for being lazy. The proper method is to use a long dowl rod to hold them in place or if the heads are comming off anyway just unbolt the lifter trays & remove them.
I have over 120k on my stock short block & have been driving my H/C combo daily for a year now without a single issue & I didn't drill or replace the lifter trays like some people insist on.
Also you should NOT rely on the lifter trays to hold the lifters up during a cam swap. If you do, you deserve to drop a lifter for being lazy. The proper method is to use a long dowl rod to hold them in place or if the heads are comming off anyway just unbolt the lifter trays & remove them.
Ya I wouldn't trust that method. I've done a few cam swaps now and I made a set of steel dowel rods that work great.
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I got a lifter tip for you.. If you look at a lifter you will notice there is a small hole on one side thats not on the other side. That small hole is your oil return on the lifter. You should always point that hole towards the main oil galley return flow. Driver side lifters- point the hole to the back Passenger side- point the hole to the front of the motor. This way the oil is returned to the oil galley in the correct flow direction.
considering the plastic lifter trays are the only thing keeping the lifters from turning it would be stupid not to replace the trays with new ones. For 32.00 you can have the piece of mind and worry about other things that could go wrong. 
Seriously though when you try to save every penny on simple projects like this it usually comes back to bite you.
Seriously though when you try to save every penny on simple projects like this it usually comes back to bite you.
considering the plastic lifter trays are the only thing keeping the lifters from turning it would be stupid not to replace the trays with new ones. For 32.00 you can have the piece of mind and worry about other things that could go wrong.
Seriously though when you try to save every penny on simple projects like this it usually comes back to bite you.
Seriously though when you try to save every penny on simple projects like this it usually comes back to bite you.
Risk a topend over 32$
New ones went in mine!!! 
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Those head gaskets would not give you sufficient piston to head clearance on a stock short block. you need to go with at least .040" thick.
Also, use the LS2 lifter trays when you are at it, they are a little thicker than the LS1 trays, we sell them for about $8 each. I can put together a package deal for the whole job if you like.
Thanks,
Shane
Also, use the LS2 lifter trays when you are at it, they are a little thicker than the LS1 trays, we sell them for about $8 each. I can put together a package deal for the whole job if you like.
Thanks,
Shane
One queston though.. can you or should you still drill 1/2 inche holes in them on one side for proper oil drainage? I heard the oil pools in the trays and gets too hot.
also interested in this
Some guys who do a lot of HPDE's do this mod, I don't personally like this mod especially on a street driven car and it weakens the tray. Besides, the LS2 tray has a recess in the side that should help facilitate oil drainage from the head.
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Cool, thanks for your input.
So bringing this thread back up for some more lifter install info ha. What do you guys do to prep the lifters before installing them? Soak them in oil I would assume? How long should I do this for?
Any other advice?
Any other advice?
LOL, also used my stock lifter trays & haven't had a single issue in 20k miles. I drive it daily & rack up a little over 300 miles per week. Again I'll stand by my previous comment of if there isn't any visible wear or damage to your stock trays you don't "NEED" to replace them, but if you feel the need to for piece of mind go ahead.
I got a lifter tip for you.. If you look at a lifter you will notice there is a small hole on one side thats not on the other side. That small hole is your oil return on the lifter. You should always point that hole towards the main oil galley return flow. Driver side lifters- point the hole to the back Passenger side- point the hole to the front of the motor. This way the oil is returned to the oil galley in the correct flow direction.