Looks like im gonna have to risk it
#1
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Looks like im gonna have to risk it
Was doing my cam swap today and couldnt lower the oil pan more than 1 mm. took out all the bolts even the back 2 and still nothing. Saw that it was sitting on the steering rack which was not moving because it is on the subframe. So my g5x3 is going to have to be run with a stock ls1 timing chain. LG Motorsports seems to think it will be fine but i still have my doubts. Cam specs are 232/242 .598 .610 112+4.
What exactly breaks timing chains? The rpm you spin it to or the torque you have? Because i have 342's and a cutout so my torque shouldnt be too crazy..
What exactly breaks timing chains? The rpm you spin it to or the torque you have? Because i have 342's and a cutout so my torque shouldnt be too crazy..
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Although I haven't changed a cam in an LS1 yet, I read this how too for a C5 and it appeared that they didn't drop the pan.
http://www.ls1howto.com/index.php?article=1
Scott
http://www.ls1howto.com/index.php?article=1
Scott
#5
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When I swapped my C5's cam, I dropped the front engine craddle down about ¼" by loosening the nuts to the end of the bolts. I also completely removed the steering rack from the car. There shouldn't be any need to drop the oil pan to change the timing chain. Just take the front two bolts out that connect to the front cover.
Engine torque does not put any more strain on a timing chain. Increased rpm, more lift, and increased spring pressure could all put more load on the chain, but miles are what usually wear them out. How many miles are on your engine? It's also not a bad idea to replace the oil pump if you have some miles on it already.
edit - it just occured to me that you are working on an F-body, not a Corvette. But anyway - the discussion on timing chain stress is still relevant.
Engine torque does not put any more strain on a timing chain. Increased rpm, more lift, and increased spring pressure could all put more load on the chain, but miles are what usually wear them out. How many miles are on your engine? It's also not a bad idea to replace the oil pump if you have some miles on it already.
edit - it just occured to me that you are working on an F-body, not a Corvette. But anyway - the discussion on timing chain stress is still relevant.
Last edited by Chevy406; 08-25-2008 at 07:41 AM. Reason: senior moment
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well i unbolted all the bolts and it drops barely anything and clearly sits on the steering rack. I cant remove the steering rack because its sitting on the subframe and theres no way thats going anywhere. I think im beat..
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#11
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If your determined to get the oilpan futher down your gonna have to lower the K member some. You gotta unbolt the shocks from the lower A arm, then there are six (6) bolts along the K member that you will have to loosen for it to come down plus the bolt on the steering linkage. After that you should be able to drop the oil pan plenty. I had to actually take the 4 back bolts out to get the oil pan out cause that allowed the K member to tilt back so that I could clear the pick up tube. Kind of a pain the first time, but it would be a piece of cake to do it again.
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If your determined to get the oilpan futher down your gonna have to lower the K member some. You gotta unbolt the shocks from the lower A arm, then there are six (6) bolts along the K member that you will have to loosen for it to come down plus the bolt on the steering linkage. After that you should be able to drop the oil pan plenty. I had to actually take the 4 back bolts out to get the oil pan out cause that allowed the K member to tilt back so that I could clear the pick up tube. Kind of a pain the first time, but it would be a piece of cake to do it again.