Valve springs install. What Happened?
10-07-2008, 12:00 AM
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Valve springs install. What Happened? 
well i started my my valve springs sat night.. problems problems and more problems
s
so i went and finished them today. got to the last spring and one of the retainers was fucked up. it wasnt fully machined. so i couldnt use it...
so i put the stock one on, for now... and started it up and it cranked really
slow but then started really quick and then idled at like 500 and didnt sound great... (broke one spark plug wire) and the valves were really noisy. so i shut it off. YELLED:#(&@!!!!! and then pulled the right side(where the noise was coming from apart and found 4 rockers really loose...(torqued to 22 but still moving... so i pulled them off, and out them back on and they seemed all good.. 22ft/lbs and they were nice and tight... so i bolted it all back together and started it... the valves were alot quieter and it sounded OK... so i let it
run for a little bit and was gonna switch spots...go under a light(11:00PM-DARK) so i put her in gear and reved it up a little bit and there was this squeaky noise! I am so pissed and have no idea WTF is going on. so i shut it
off and locked her up for the night!!! im suppose to get tuned on wednesday morning. this ruins my week. (on top of plenty more ****)!!!
whats happening?
10-07-2008, 01:09 AM
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LSxGuy widda 9sec Mustang
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Squeaking noise is lack of lubrication to the rockers/pushrods, it will take a sec for oil to get to the top of the engine on its own. Anytime new parts are installed I recommend pouring new oil over the springs, rockers, pushrod tip before startup. I then start them up, and after making sure everything is ok (oil pressure, coolant full), and then hold it at about 1500RPM to make sure the top end gets oiled quickly. Even with oil on everything it will still squeak sometimes, but will go away very shortly afterwards if the RPM is kept up long enough for oil to take care of it.
If you idle the engine, it will take about 3-4 minutes for all rockers to get any significant amount of engine oil on a cold engine, that's the reason to hold at a higher RPM.
PS: I wouldn't run the stock retainer with those springs for long if at all...
If you idle the engine, it will take about 3-4 minutes for all rockers to get any significant amount of engine oil on a cold engine, that's the reason to hold at a higher RPM.
PS: I wouldn't run the stock retainer with those springs for long if at all...
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10-07-2008, 12:52 PM
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Car died!!!!.........??????? Well i went out this morning... and started it up and it was just squeaking. so i let the oil
get pumping and after maybe 5 mins, everything sounded good so i ran to the bank and then to get food. and i was driving and heard a "ting" *** and the car stalled. *** again.
So i pulled over and pulled the valve cover.(expecting to see pieces) and everything looked good. the rockers were a little loose but thats it. What happened? something deeper?
get pumping and after maybe 5 mins, everything sounded good so i ran to the bank and then to get food. and i was driving and heard a "ting" *** and the car stalled. *** again.
So i pulled over and pulled the valve cover.(expecting to see pieces) and everything looked good. the rockers were a little loose but thats it. What happened? something deeper?
10-07-2008, 02:42 PM
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Squeaking noise is lack of lubrication to the rockers/pushrods, it will take a sec for oil to get to the top of the engine on its own. Anytime new parts are installed I recommend pouring new oil over the springs, rockers, pushrod tip before startup. I then start them up, and after making sure everything is ok (oil pressure, coolant full), and then hold it at about 1500RPM to make sure the top end gets oiled quickly. Even with oil on everything it will still squeak sometimes, but will go away very shortly afterwards if the RPM is kept up long enough for oil to take care of it.
If you idle the engine, it will take about 3-4 minutes for all rockers to get any significant amount of engine oil on a cold engine, that's the reason to hold at a higher RPM.
PS: I wouldn't run the stock retainer with those springs for long if at all...
If you idle the engine, it will take about 3-4 minutes for all rockers to get any significant amount of engine oil on a cold engine, that's the reason to hold at a higher RPM.
PS: I wouldn't run the stock retainer with those springs for long if at all...
excellent advice. i have done this on every head/cam install with no problem
10-07-2008, 03:36 PM
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to check the lifters you gotta pull the heads off, and if one of your lifters collapsed your cam might be messed up too now, my cam was messed up when i dropped a lifter
10-07-2008, 04:11 PM
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So. should i try to tighten the rockers... or am i fucked? If the heads come off, im selling the Turbo and building a H/C like everyone else... Im just trying to be different. I dont like being like everyone else. but its difficult working in a parking lot. And i just sold my 1 7/8 headers!!! Idk what to do.
10-07-2008, 05:57 PM
#15
Don't panic (yet). Start with basics. Below is the GM procedure. Lifters just don't fail, even though a lot of people blame them there is usually something else wrong.
Are the rockers getting oil?
What did you change? (Springs, retainers, seats and seals?)
What method did you use and what tool?
Did you change pushrods?
Are the rockers getting oil?
What did you change? (Springs, retainers, seats and seals?)
What method did you use and what tool?
Did you change pushrods?
10-07-2008, 08:03 PM
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Thanks a lot vettenuts. I went through and tightened with the GM procedure. and everything is good. i still had to cancel my tuning because a 2 hour project turned into a 2 day project... but. anyway thanks.
I did it the way tatasta explained on two of my friends cars and they worked fine... so idk what happened to me.
I did it the way tatasta explained on two of my friends cars and they worked fine... so idk what happened to me.
10-08-2008, 04:59 AM
#20
The torque you measure with the torque wrench is a function of thread friction which is directly related to the amount of force in the bolt. With the GM procedure you are tightening when the lifter is at its lowest point (on the base circle) so that the force in the bolt is not coming from compressing the valve spring. If the valve is open, the friction is coming from the force required to compress the valve spring and you end up with less bolt preload (the bolt hasn't stretched and created a correct clamping force against the head). The torque wrench will click due to friction where the some of the force is now coming from the valve spring (you are not stretching the bolt).
Hope this makes sense. The other thing to be careful of with larger aftermarket cams and not using the GM procedure, you could force the valve into the piston if the piston is at TDC as the lifter will not bleed down fast enough while you tighten so the valve could open and contact the piston.
Hope this makes sense. The other thing to be careful of with larger aftermarket cams and not using the GM procedure, you could force the valve into the piston if the piston is at TDC as the lifter will not bleed down fast enough while you tighten so the valve could open and contact the piston.