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new edelbrock intake (at SEMA)?

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Old Nov 11, 2008 | 09:39 PM
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Default new edelbrock intake (at SEMA)?

as the title says, anyone have information about the new edelbrock intake manifold? i cant remember where i saw the pics, but i believe it was black. im not sure this is the right thread for it. thanks again guys!
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Old Nov 11, 2008 | 09:43 PM
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https://ls1tech.com/forums/generatio...available.html
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Old Nov 11, 2008 | 10:08 PM
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Here https://ls1tech.com/forums/generatio...than-fast.html
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Old Nov 12, 2008 | 05:14 PM
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nice, thanks alot!
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Old Nov 15, 2008 | 09:31 PM
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It should be out sometime in January.

Last edited by JJD49; Nov 19, 2008 at 08:19 AM.
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Old Nov 30, 2008 | 09:32 AM
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Wil it work for my goat???
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Old Nov 30, 2008 | 11:58 AM
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I will be curious how this intake works for street apps. Manufacterer claims and the real world are often different

My point being those short runners make it appear to be a topend intake that would be a dog down low where us street guys live.

I would love to be proven wrong but I guess it is a little late for me since I have already manned up and taken my my a$$ f*****g from FAST LOL
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Old Nov 30, 2008 | 05:14 PM
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Originally Posted by URNMYGTO
Wil it work for my goat???

Not with out hitting the hood and strut brace.
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Old Dec 1, 2008 | 09:14 AM
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Its metal right... leaves 15 hp on the table
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Old Dec 1, 2008 | 11:01 AM
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Originally Posted by GrannySShifting
Its metal right... leaves 15 hp on the table
how do you figure?

don't say heat soak...if you're that worried about it throw chunks of dry ice inside that huge open area between runs...

plus the way its built to let air flow under I doubt it gets any hotter than plastic, maybe even less
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Old Dec 1, 2008 | 12:28 PM
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Ive seen that much and more power heat soaking metal intakes on these engines. Sheetmetal not nearly as bad as the mass of aluminum is much less.

We have done that (with ice) burn through 30 lbs of ice and still a hot heat sink at the end of the day. You cna cool the intake off to 32 degrees, it will pull the heat right back into it from the cyl head. The less alum in intake, the cooler it stays

Plastic doesnt radiate heat. If your <7500 for 99% people I wouldnt even think about trying to reinvent the wheel, unless another composite wheel comes along. Been thru $6000 worth of intakes that tells me this.
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Old Dec 1, 2008 | 02:29 PM
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Ah another heatsoak theory.
Honestly I would like to see track times. Sure when your driving around town it'll get hot, but do you think that the air moving at 300+CFM sits in the manifold long enough to absorb a large amount of heat?
Again track times would be nice.
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Old Dec 2, 2008 | 09:42 PM
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LOL Track times and theory, riiight. Ok 9.50 at 143 leaving very soft NA, with a hyd roller car. Not with a metal intake though, with a plastic one.

With a cast intake, isolated well the car previously went 9.69 in cold air. With another intake much more aluminum mass, similair runner length, SAME hp dyno'd back-back when bone cold, it was 20 hp or more down with some heat in the engine and a few tenths slower. A dyno pulls air thru intake in high gear just like going downtrack if its loaded right

Heat soaked intake cost us at least 2 tenths on a high 9 second car, naturally aspirated. When it was above 50-60 degrees ambient, there was no getting the engine down to temperature without hours

We dont live in theory, hence why i said weve tested $6000 worth of intakes. Real drag race stuff gets cooled down in a hurry between rounds and leave the starting line at like 130-140 degrees, 99.99% of people arent flushing their blocks with water out of a cooler between rounds

Ill stick with the plastic intake on my bucket, doesnt mind being hotlapped one bit.
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Old Dec 2, 2008 | 09:58 PM
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Well there you go, youve had real experience and track times. Thing is your running a no bullshit all out drag car, and Im sure the 6000 dollars of intake tests were but a fraction of the cash you have into your car. For me, who would be happy to run 11's, 2 tenths at $400/tenth just isnt cost effective. So if I can get an improvement over the LS6 intake for 400 bucks well thats fine, but to spend 1200 on a ported 90mm FAST just dosent make sense, for me anyway.
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Old Dec 3, 2008 | 01:16 AM
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Originally Posted by GrannySShifting
LOL Track times and theory, riiight. Ok 9.50 at 143 leaving very soft NA, with a hyd roller car. Not with a metal intake though, with a plastic one.

With a cast intake, isolated well the car previously went 9.69 in cold air. With another intake much more aluminum mass, similair runner length, SAME hp dyno'd back-back when bone cold, it was 20 hp or more down with some heat in the engine and a few tenths slower. A dyno pulls air thru intake in high gear just like going downtrack if its loaded right

Heat soaked intake cost us at least 2 tenths on a high 9 second car, naturally aspirated. When it was above 50-60 degrees ambient, there was no getting the engine down to temperature without hours

We dont live in theory, hence why i said weve tested $6000 worth of intakes. Real drag race stuff gets cooled down in a hurry between rounds and leave the starting line at like 130-140 degrees, 99.99% of people arent flushing their blocks with water out of a cooler between rounds

Ill stick with the plastic intake on my bucket, doesnt mind being hotlapped one bit.
I'm sorry but this still doesn't prove that your loss was from heat soak. It would take much more science then to say the intakes are simular. Don't get me wrong I would prefer a composite intake to an aluminum, but you really have not proved your loss was from heat soak and not manifold configuration.
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Old Dec 3, 2008 | 02:11 AM
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Originally Posted by 06BOMGTO
I'm sorry but this still doesn't prove that your loss was from heat soak. It would take much more science then to say the intakes are simular. Don't get me wrong I would prefer a composite intake to an aluminum, but you really have not proved your loss was from heat soak and not manifold configuration.
wether or not his theory is right or wrong-his got some facts-

and we all know heat is one of the worst things out their for a engine and trans-

theirs no turning back on that-

heat is a killer-
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Old Dec 3, 2008 | 05:01 AM
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I'm not disagreeing that heat is a problem. I've heard so many arguments about heat soak it hurts my head. The only way to prove that it is the factor that makes the difference would be to have 2 identical manifolds one made from aluminum and one from composite. Run them back to back and see what the difference is. To say that manufacturer A's composite manifold makes Xhp and manufacturer B's aluminum manifold makes less hp and the loss is due solely to the materials is wrong.

As I said before I do believe in heat soak it's not a theory it's fact. I would buy a composite intake over an aluminum one.

For me, the available cash is the deciding factor. It's much easier for me to justify spending 7-800 for 20hp(intake and tune) as it is to spend over 1k for 25hp.
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Old Dec 3, 2008 | 07:54 AM
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Originally Posted by ZMONSTER!
Well there you go, youve had real experience and track times. Thing is your running a no bullshit all out drag car, and Im sure the 6000 dollars of intake tests were but a fraction of the cash you have into your car. For me, who would be happy to run 11's, 2 tenths at $400/tenth just isnt cost effective. So if I can get an improvement over the LS6 intake for 400 bucks well thats fine, but to spend 1200 on a ported 90mm FAST just dosent make sense, for me anyway.
Your apparently missing what I posted completely. There is a measureable power loss on a car cooled down between passes with loads of ice. There is a worse power loss when we drove the car for an hour before racing - even when we had time to dump lbs of ice on it before making a pass. Unless you have the ability to cool your stuff down to 34 degrees like most organized heads up racers do, youd be leaving ET on the table. Your street car with the hood shut always will be affected worse than anything weve dealt with/tested. Weve done it a million ways, one with a $3500 intake that we would really like to have had work and not lose power, took a bath on as we found better results. I wish we could have chosen "not to believe" LOL

You want cheap performance, youll spend $200 more than a LS6 and get a used fast. Or spend $450 more and get a new one. You WILL not make more average power than a intake packaged like that from 3500-6500 rpm, for what you are doing, period, unported. you will maybe pick up 2 tenths over LS6, and lose it all soon as engine gets over 150 degrees. Hello and welcome to the Weiand manifold 8 years ago guys.

06GTO, apparently you missed it as well? Ice bone COLD the two manifolds made EXACTLY the same HP. WITHI 2 HP EVERYWHERE. Get them HOT, and the one with a lot more mass of aluminum DROPPED 20 within 3-4 pulls, the other with open area under plenum maybe 5-8. Did the configuration of the intake change? No. Is it some kind of variable runner that opens up when the intake reaches 200 degrees? The temperature changed only. Plastic manifold, it slows down hundreths, not tenths. Summary: Metal intake made with .5% hp ice cold, but lost up to 20-25 hot. Pretty A-B obvious controlled stuff there

Im not going to try any more, trying to say what weve seen over time testing with the 8K rpm hyd roller street/race stuff save from wasting money to find this but nevermind. "I dont think so" or checked it on is somehow a more qualified answer here.

Get that intake on any cam only LS1 or LS2 and well drive to the track and see how it works out, Ill bring mine with the plastic intake on

NJC, Ill see you on bullet
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Old Dec 4, 2008 | 04:47 AM
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Got cash?
https://ls1tech.com/forums/new-produ...manifolds.html
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Old Dec 4, 2008 | 04:51 AM
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Not like that!
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