LS7 Exhaust manifolds, mating flange for header pipe
#2
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Currently I don't know of anyone that is making these. I am sure that there is a conversin company somewhere.
I would have them made. Find a company that has a laser cutter. I have had a company make header flanges that don't exist.
You might find someone with a take off.
Robin
I would have them made. Find a company that has a laser cutter. I have had a company make header flanges that don't exist.
You might find someone with a take off.
Robin
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#8
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Encouragement is a great tool, thank you.
405HP_Z06, thank you, I have used their parts in other swaps, excellent suggestion. Their block hugger four into one header is somewhat similar at the collector, wonder why I didn't remember them.
You should call Street & Performance, they do a TON of engine swaps. If the parts are available, they will know.
#12
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I have already made the Autocad drawing, and we too have a number of precision shops in our area.
Like anything else, if it is already mass produced, that would be the less expensive way to go. That is the reason for my inquiry.
If someone wants the CAD drawing and can produce parts in trade, PM me.
Like anything else, if it is already mass produced, that would be the less expensive way to go. That is the reason for my inquiry.
If someone wants the CAD drawing and can produce parts in trade, PM me.
#14
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I notice someone said that the flange had to have a recessed portion?
If it is anything like the C6 6.0L exhaust, I wouldn't worry about it. That gasket is a metal crush-style. It is flat with a raised lip around the circumfrence of the exhaust hole. As you tighten the flange to the manifold, this raised lip will crush and make your seal.
As a result, a flat flange should be fine. I don't think it necessarily needs a recession on both flanges. If anything, you could screw it up by making it too deep.
If it is anything like the C6 6.0L exhaust, I wouldn't worry about it. That gasket is a metal crush-style. It is flat with a raised lip around the circumfrence of the exhaust hole. As you tighten the flange to the manifold, this raised lip will crush and make your seal.
As a result, a flat flange should be fine. I don't think it necessarily needs a recession on both flanges. If anything, you could screw it up by making it too deep.
#15
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Sometimes on a crush seal both parts have a similar depth, so that the outside actually bottoms out to make a uniform seal on the inside.
#16
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Interesting. I just looked at my set, and both flanges have this recess (manifold and collector side both). The crush gasket has a bead at that position that locks in the groove to seal.
With that said, any decent machine shop can make these according to your drawing. I've had my father in law take a drawing to work and ask their machinist in house to do some axle flanges before. For the price of a case of beer.
I have also used a small machine shop to modify brake parts. It usually isn't too bad. I guess I agree with jmil, we have options here.
PM me if you want me to try to pursue a machine shop for you here on a set.
With that said, any decent machine shop can make these according to your drawing. I've had my father in law take a drawing to work and ask their machinist in house to do some axle flanges before. For the price of a case of beer.
I have also used a small machine shop to modify brake parts. It usually isn't too bad. I guess I agree with jmil, we have options here.
PM me if you want me to try to pursue a machine shop for you here on a set.
Last edited by Lurk; 03-06-2009 at 09:24 PM.
#18
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I used a version of Autocad, only because that is what I am familiar with. Satisfied with drawings are pretty close to factory part. Did one in .dwg format for a basic print and dimension checking, did two drawings in .dxf format for machining on computer controlled mill, wire edm, or laser.
One person has sent for drawings in exhange for parts, anyone else?
One person has sent for drawings in exhange for parts, anyone else?
Last edited by grobb284; 03-08-2009 at 07:05 AM.
#19
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Could talk to these guys:
http://www.ls1gto.com/forums/showthread.php?t=260523
Otherwise, why not just custom-made headers?
http://www.ls1gto.com/forums/showthread.php?t=260523
Otherwise, why not just custom-made headers?
#20
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These headers are just right for my project. I need a header that exits almost central to the motor, as I am running side pipes. See photo in signature.
Also, even though they are from GM, and are mass produced, they have to be one of the more expensive headers produced, as far as design time and tooling. I don't know of any aftermarket headers that took the time or expense to hydroform the tubes.
![](http://popularhotrodding.com/tech/0504phr_ls7_18_z.jpg)
The shrouding of the integral cover with dead air space may keep heat in, as well as not letting as much heat out.
![](http://www.v8archie.com/pip/DSCN8240_(Small)_1.JPG)
GM made them in stainless, a superior material for long term use. They also polish up nice, like a art-deco piece from the '30's.
![](http://i84.photobucket.com/albums/k24/letsgostlouisblues/ebay004.jpg)
They must flow pretty well, they are using them on the supercharged LS9, the most powerful engine that GM sells to the public.
Also, even though they are from GM, and are mass produced, they have to be one of the more expensive headers produced, as far as design time and tooling. I don't know of any aftermarket headers that took the time or expense to hydroform the tubes.
![](http://popularhotrodding.com/tech/0504phr_ls7_18_z.jpg)
The shrouding of the integral cover with dead air space may keep heat in, as well as not letting as much heat out.
GM made them in stainless, a superior material for long term use. They also polish up nice, like a art-deco piece from the '30's.
![](http://i84.photobucket.com/albums/k24/letsgostlouisblues/ebay004.jpg)
They must flow pretty well, they are using them on the supercharged LS9, the most powerful engine that GM sells to the public.
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