Anyone modify a Kooks TD?
So I added these Magnaflow's which are straight thru. It made a huge difference, got rid of the rasp and Harley sound, but still wish it was a little quieter while getting up to speed (45 mph) in city driving.
Wish I had went with dual tips, however, and still might, since the welder does excellent work.
And I do have room to add another after the j pipe.
Last edited by dlandsvZ28; Nov 24, 2017 at 10:29 AM.
I made some spacers. 1/4 + 1/2 inch worked for me. But still need to make just two spacers (one for each side) that are at total of 3/4 inch.
Last edited by dlandsvZ28; Nov 24, 2017 at 10:26 AM.
And while the UltraFlos didn't make it drone free, the exhaust is more tolerable now.
An old trick to eliminate vibration ( when no amount of BFH will help) is to put a piece of heater hose between the touching metal parts as it absorbs some of the vibration.
And while the UltraFlos didn't make it drone free, the exhaust is more tolerable now.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_7L15T1wFM4
I have the same low point on my system as well. That would be the location for resonators if the clearance wasn't an issue.
Honestly the Magnaflows are growing on me. Compliments All Day Long.
Running 2 Corsa Mufflers (not bullets) on my Kooks True Duals is what I’ve always wanted but couldn’t find a shop that could make it work - until a few months ago.
It’s the best my car has ever sounded IMO and exactly what I wanted
Wasn’t an easy install but the finished product was worth it.
The Best V8 Stories One Small Block at Time
https://www.flickr.com/photos/183593...7689364049826/
I was told by one of their techs that if I threw just a random set of Corsa Mufflers on it would drone; with what he recommended, I have no drone and a completely unique sound.
Ground clearance in the back, under the trunk area, is not very good but acceptable for me to drive daily.
https://www.flickr.com/photos/183593...7689364049826/
Erik at BMR suggested the idea when I got their kit. He said they had tested with them, but couldn't find the plates, so I made my own.
The bracket isn't any lower than the looped bracket on the Spohn tunnel mount kit that I had previously on the car (spacers add up to 3/4 inch). I got tired of the clunking when the rear end would load or unload with the Spohn tunnel mount ta. Even tried their Delrin bushing - didn't help.
Pic below of the Spohn tq. It would catch speed bumps. My Z28 is lowered in the front with Koni's (about 3/4 inch) and in the back with Sam Strano lowering springs (about 1 1/2 inches).
BMR TA
There is about 3 1/2 to 4 inches of clearance using 3/4 inches of spacers. Still don't like it so this winter plan to cut out the 1/2 of the tube and weld in plate which will be the same as 3/4 of spacers while at the same time raise the bracket. There are also leading edges on the bracket that can be trimmed a 1/4 of an inch. Yes - realize tubing is perhaps stronger, but at my rwhp I doubt that I will be able to twist the bracket if a plate is welded in and if the ends of the flat piece are at 90 degree angle on the ends where it will be welded. 1/4 inch plate should be pretty strong.
Note: you can make spacers easily enough with a piece of 3/4 X 1 1/2 inch aluminum bar. Look for aircraft salvage yards. That's where I get my metal when needed. You don't necessarily have to slot the holes like what was done on mine.
It would be nice if BMR would add different spacers as an option. Yes you can add thick washers, but perhaps don't want to stack them more than a 1/4 inch or so. What I did at first.
Last edited by dlandsvZ28; Nov 27, 2017 at 11:27 AM.
The BMR TA013 kit when mounted flush with the floor mounts is exactly the same height as the bottom of the rear TA bracket. And also the same height as my Spohn lower control arm brackets. You can also see that the bracket on the tunnel mount with the spacers is just a bit lower than the American Racing j pipes and I have them mounted as high as possible. So if I remove the spacers, the j pipe will actually be lower than the bottom of the ta bracket.
In summary when we modify and lower these cars, there are lots of places with very little ground clearance.
FTW - my 12 Corvette Grandsport (stock - no mods) is only five inches off of the ground in the front. There are a lot of parking lots with speed bumps that I have to stay away from. So not much difference in ground clearance between my Camaro and the Vette.
Last edited by dlandsvZ28; Nov 28, 2017 at 10:46 AM.
Agree - that's why I am going to modify the tubing on the front ta mount with flat bar steel. That will raise the TA back up 3/4 inch (remove the spacers). On my setup then still allow enough room for the three inch pipe aft of the j pipe.
The BMR TA013 kit when mounted flush with the floor mounts is exactly the same height as the bottom of the rear TA bracket. And also the same height as my Spohn lower control arm brackets. You can also see that the bracket on the tunnel mount with the spacers is just a bit lower than the American Racing j pipes and I have them mounted as high as possible. So if I remove the spacers, the j pipe will actually be lower than the bottom of the ta bracket.
In summary when we modify and lower these cars, there are lots of places with very little ground clearance.
FTW - my 12 Corvette Grandsport (stock - no mods) is only five inches off of the ground in the front. There are a lot of parking lots with speed bumps that I have to stay away from. So not much difference in ground clearance between my Camaro and the Vette.








