Anyone modify a Kooks TD?
So there are many parts under these cars that can possibly hit something if we decide to add custom parts while at the same time lowering these cars about an inch and half.
My solution will be to raise the bracket up by modifiying with a flat bar steel piece replacing the 1 inch tubing. Then I won't need the spacers. Even so all of the other parts I pointed out above will still be lower than the BMR bracket.
Lastly, I live in a normal neighborhood with normal driveway inclines. I can't drive my Corvette GS into the garage without scraping the front air dam and valance. It is stock height from the factory.
I don't like it, but it is what it is. Eventually I will replace the valance if it starts to look bad or breaks.
It's a risk we take when we modify our cars or drive cars that don't have a lot of ground clearance.
Perhaps the poster who had $4k of damage will respond telling us what he hit than caused the damage and the parts that were damaged.
Get longer grade 8 bolts too to account for the extra 1/4 (if you use two washers) on each side.
BTW, the washers were before I made the spacers.
Some of these cars are very critical after doing mods such as adding k members, solid motor mounts, different transmission cross member, the wrong transmission isolater etc. I had a Yank tranmission mount that along with the UMI k member thru my tailshaft off by 3/4 of an inch. So I had to raise the tailshaft by that amount to keep the front u joint from vibrating.
If the front tailshaft is too low even by a 1/2 inch they will vibrate on the front.
So yes, worst case scenario can take some time when adjusting pinion angle to try to get rid of vibration and save your ujoints.
But, you can buy the angle finder at Harbor Freight for less than $10 along with some cheap BA wrenches. An you will need two sets of drive on ramps.
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Drive the car on ramps, making sure the suspension loaded and NOT unsprung.
You will need four wrenches - two 15/16 inch, one 1 inch, and one 1 1/8 inch if adjusting the BMRTA013.
Follow the BMR TA instructions or the Spohn TA instructions. Find a friend to help you.
I set mine at -1 degree because I don't race or street race.
You can buy all of the stuff above and still save money if the shop charges that much.
Note: some can adjust the car at the track simply by knowing the number of turns on the adjusting nut for each degree of angle they want. So it does't have to be on jack stands or level, etc if you keep track of various angles and the number of turns for street setting vs drag strip setting.
Spohn, BTW, sends along an angle finder with their kit, BMR did not.
Last edited by dlandsvZ28; Nov 30, 2017 at 03:56 PM.
The Best V8 Stories One Small Block at Time
Some of these cars are very critical after doing mods such as adding k members, solid motor mounts, different transmission cross member, the wrong transmission isolater etc. I had a Yank tranmission mount that along with the UMI k member thru my tailshaft off by 3/4 of an inch. So I had to raise the tailshaft by that amount to keep the front u joint from vibrating.
If the front tailshaft is too low even by a 1/2 inch they will vibrate on the front.
So yes, worst case scenario can take some time when adjusting pinion angle to try to get rid of vibration and save your ujoints.
But, you can buy the angle finder at Harbor Freight for less than $10 along with some cheap BA wrenches. An you will need two sets of drive on ramps.
*******************************
Drive the car on ramps, making sure the suspension loaded and NOT unsprung.
You will need four wrenches - two 15/16 inch, one 1 inch, and one 1 1/8 inch if adjusting the BMRTA013.
Follow the BMR TA instructions or the Spohn TA instructions. Find a friend to help you.
I set mine at -1 degree because I don't race or street race.
You can buy all of the stuff above and still save money if the shop charges that much.
Note: some can adjust the car at the track simply by knowing the number of turns on the adjusting nut for each degree of angle they want. So it does't have to be on jack stands or level, etc if you keep track of various angles and the number of turns for street setting vs drag strip setting.
Spohn, BTW, sends along an angle finder with their kit, BMR did not.
Where did you get your mufflers installed at? I got a pair of Magnaflow 12219 and took them to a few muffler shops in Gulfport, MS. And they all said that they could not install those mufflers in place of the SE bullets. New Orleans is not that far. I would be willing to run over there if you feel like the shop that did yours did a good job.
Last edited by bbond105; Feb 9, 2018 at 01:42 PM.
I read all the posts in here lots of good info. I have the TSP true duals and just ordered the magnaflows. I want to try and figure out a way to be able to install these with the ability to switch back and forth with the bullets that came with it. Oddly enough fresh after my install the drone was holy ****, but the more I drive it the less there is, maybe it is just me. I went from an adjustable borla system which wide open was decent, fully closed it was to quiet and raspy. Bought the borla when the car had stock cubes and it was amazing, but behind the 408 stroker it lost that amazing sound. Trying to find that balance with a true dual setup is a pain in the *** on these cars.









