Wet sleeved block with intermittent white coolant smoke
06-14-2016, 12:36 PM
#1
Wet sleeved block with intermittent white coolant smoke I have a Darton wet sleeved MID LS2 block in a 2010 Camaro and I am using Evans waterless coolant in it. The engine has maybe 300 miles on it.
The other day, I drove the car to eat. After coming back outside, when I started it, white smoke came out of the tailpipes and stopped after the initial start. I drove to a gas station and, as I pulled into the lot, I received the dash information message the car was overheated. I then noticed the gauge was pegged on hot. I was running the AC prior to this.
I turned the car off and let it sit for several minutes until it cooled down and I wasn't getting anymore messages from the car. I started the car and pulled over to the pumps for fuel. When it started, again white smoke came out of the tailpipes and then stopped.
I don't remember if the car smoked after starting it again after fueling. However, it did not smoke anymore at all the rest of the day when being started. I did not run the AC anymore that day. When driving down the highway at speed, the temps are in the 200s to 210s. Once, when sitting at a long stop light, the temps crept into the 230s. A few minutes later, at another long light, the temps held steady at 212. Neither of those were with AC on.
There are no external leaks, the oil does not have coolant in it and the coolant level appears the same as always. There has been a slight coolant smell prior to this when starting the car. It seems to come from the vents indicating a heater core issue and has been smelled from the tail pipe but goes away and never had smoke before the aforementioned times.
I haven't pulled the heads yet to check the gaskets, etc but thought I'd see if anyone else has had the same issues and what their experience was.
The other day, I drove the car to eat. After coming back outside, when I started it, white smoke came out of the tailpipes and stopped after the initial start. I drove to a gas station and, as I pulled into the lot, I received the dash information message the car was overheated. I then noticed the gauge was pegged on hot. I was running the AC prior to this.
I turned the car off and let it sit for several minutes until it cooled down and I wasn't getting anymore messages from the car. I started the car and pulled over to the pumps for fuel. When it started, again white smoke came out of the tailpipes and then stopped.
I don't remember if the car smoked after starting it again after fueling. However, it did not smoke anymore at all the rest of the day when being started. I did not run the AC anymore that day. When driving down the highway at speed, the temps are in the 200s to 210s. Once, when sitting at a long stop light, the temps crept into the 230s. A few minutes later, at another long light, the temps held steady at 212. Neither of those were with AC on.
There are no external leaks, the oil does not have coolant in it and the coolant level appears the same as always. There has been a slight coolant smell prior to this when starting the car. It seems to come from the vents indicating a heater core issue and has been smelled from the tail pipe but goes away and never had smoke before the aforementioned times.
I haven't pulled the heads yet to check the gaskets, etc but thought I'd see if anyone else has had the same issues and what their experience was.
06-15-2016, 09:33 AM
#4
TECH Veteran
He mentioned Darton.... sound like Steve at Racing engine development.
06-15-2016, 12:46 PM
#5
They were installed by Lamar Walden who has since passed away. I'm not the guy who had the work done, I bought it from the guy who did. Furthermore, it was rehoned after I got it. Based on those facts, barking up that tree is probably not an option I'll even explore.
I'm leaning towards a crack in an exhaust port since there is no coolant in the oil.
I have no desire to turn a wrench on it at the moment so it is at a shop. I told them I'm in no hurry for it as I'm burned out on the two year project. In fact, I may just sell the car on the cheap regardless of it getting fixed or not.
I'm leaning towards a crack in an exhaust port since there is no coolant in the oil.
I have no desire to turn a wrench on it at the moment so it is at a shop. I told them I'm in no hurry for it as I'm burned out on the two year project. In fact, I may just sell the car on the cheap regardless of it getting fixed or not.
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07-04-2016, 02:43 PM
#8
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I just stumbled on this thread. Any updates? Is there any reason that your using the Evans waterless coolant? It runs a lot HOTTER than regular coolant / distilled water mix from what I've read. I looked into it and it made no sense to me.
07-06-2016, 12:47 AM
#9
MID blocks Do you know what head gaskets were used? Cometic MID specific head gaskets are recommended. The Texas Speed PFF head gaskets work well for highly boosted applications but I am not certain of their life span on the street.
If using non torque to yield fasteners, the fasteners must be retorqued after the first heat up cool down cycle. The same holds true for dry sleeved blocks.
Evans is the preferred coolant to protect the sleeves from cavitation damage. This is more of a problem with boosted engines that will run into detonation. You should never use plain or distilled water as the sleeves will turn to solid rust, also the issue with cavitation that in time will erode holes through the sleeves.
A torque restraint is highly recommended to take the load off of the engine mounts and prevent distortion of the block which can result in a blown head gasket. Front and rear motor plates are recommended for high power applications.
Steve
If using non torque to yield fasteners, the fasteners must be retorqued after the first heat up cool down cycle. The same holds true for dry sleeved blocks.
Evans is the preferred coolant to protect the sleeves from cavitation damage. This is more of a problem with boosted engines that will run into detonation. You should never use plain or distilled water as the sleeves will turn to solid rust, also the issue with cavitation that in time will erode holes through the sleeves.
A torque restraint is highly recommended to take the load off of the engine mounts and prevent distortion of the block which can result in a blown head gasket. Front and rear motor plates are recommended for high power applications.
Steve
__________________
Steve Demirjian
Race Engine Development
Oceanside, Ca.
760-630-0450
web: www.raceenginedevelopment.com/
e-mail: race-engine-development@***.net
Steve Demirjian
Race Engine Development
Oceanside, Ca.
760-630-0450
web: www.raceenginedevelopment.com/
e-mail: race-engine-development@***.net
