josht

iTrader: (2)

this is going into a 68 GTO / GM A-body with ATS mounts. I don't have the headers yet.

The game plan is to install the following parts:
cts-v or ats oil pan
GM Performance hydraulic roller lifter set part # 88958689 from SDPC
new cylinder head ceramic gaskets {GM MLS head gaskets 4.080” x .060” thick}
LS1? ported oil pump which one?
ARP head bolt set, does any one have the part #?
Livernois Motorsports L92 Camshaft (Stage 3 )
Livernois Motorsports CNC Ported Stage 3 L92 Cylinder Heads
L92 Intake, new TB? and reuse the injectors and rails?
send the harness off to make it stand alone
have the ecu/cpu edited with eftlive?

my questions are, to get the engine installed/bolted in:
Which brackets do I need to replace?
can I use Gm parts direct # 19155067 gen IV with ac or
Gm parts direct # 19155066 gen III with ac

The L92 intake is a 4 bolt deal? so any 4 bolt LS2 TB will bolt on? like a NW or Fast TB? i was told that the original LQ4/LQ9 TB will not work with the L92 intake as it is smaller. Is this true?

I can buy ::
Intake Manifold, L76 / L92 Car, Bare Manifold part # 12590124 / $252.13

or

Intake Manifold, L76 / L92 Car, Complete Assembly # 12590123 / $528.95
that comes with manifold, injector rail, injector assembly, 90mm throttle body, intake bolts, intake gaskets, map sensor.

Which is the better option:

Can I reuse the original truck fuel rails & injectors? Will I need spacers to reuse the original fuel injectors with the L92 intake? Would I still need new bolts and gaskets as I can not reuse them, is this correct?

I can use LS2 fuel rails but I would need to use the Katek injector kit? or is it that I only need to use the Katek kit with LS1 injectors with a LS2 intake?


I am sure I missed something so please let me know...

TIA

95FbFormula

iTrader: (25)

Only advice I can add is there is no need for the CNC Ported Stage 3 L92 Cylinder Heads unless you plan to run a custom or the carb intake the L76 will not flow enough to support a full ported L92

josht

iTrader: (2)

If I get the L92 Intake bare I can use the original LQ4 injectors with the LS1 to LS7 kit as this is a EV1 > EV6 deal?

Should I get the complete L76 Intake Manifold and use the truck injectors with adapters and call it a day?

I will need both the injector connector and spacer kits regardless?

Which high volume/ported LS1 oil pump should I use?

Can I reuse the ps/wp/alt/ac comp with C5/LS2/Cts-v brackets & hardware?
Should I use a LS2 water pump 89017592 $183.02 S&H $40.26?
What do I need to replace top get rid of the truck clutch/fan?

TIA

josht

iTrader: (2)

Should I use the truck LS1? injectors or the LS7 ones?

If I go FI will the stock truck LS1? injectors be enough or will I have to upgrade to LS7 type anyway?

josht

iTrader: (2)

Stock Information:
4.000" bore
3.622 stroke
6.096" rod length {is this correct??}

LQ4 compression 9.4
LQ9 compression 10.0
both have 72cc heads

I want to use the stock crank if possible. I did not find connecting rods with 6.098" length, most were 6.125" Does using the longer rod length mean I use a thicker gasket?

Build parts:
Dura-Bond Coated High Performance LS1 Cam Bearing Set, 2004-up
Part # CHP-23T Retail Price: $98.95

1.5, 1.5, 3mm Low Tension File Fit Xtreme Piston Rings
Part # ACX105985 Retail Price: $116.95

wrong rod length ???
LS1 Dish Pistons - 4.000 Bore, 3.622 Stroke, 6.098 Rod
Part # DIA11514 Retail Price: $634.95


LS1 Warrior Piston Kit Part # WPKLS11 Retail Price: $869.95
3.622 Stroke, 6.098 Rod length, LS1 Warrior Piston Kit
·JE forged Flat Top Pistons
·JE File-Fit Plasma Moly Rings 1.5, 1.5, 3.0mm
·Cometic MLS Race Head Gaskets
·Clevite 77 P or H Series Bearings

so what are my options for building a LQ4 with forged internals?
I was looking into Diamond LS1 Dish Pistons or Diamond LS1 Flat Top Pistons with Scat H-Beam LS1 Connecting Rods.
I am confused with the rod lengths..........




TIA

69LT1Bird

iTrader: (1)

What harness are you using? I am using the factory truck harness from a 2002 and the injectors use the Motec connector, not the EV1 or EV6. I put in 39lb Ford SVO injectors and whet to the junk yard and took connectors off from Dodge Neons and PT cruisers.

I still have to relocate the mounting brackets from the rail to manifold. Also, the oring is wrong for the lower part of the injector, I found that the upper oring is the correct size to take up the diameter difference at the injector boss in the manifold. I just used the upper oring from the stock injectors and put them on the bottoms of the SVO ones and they are now tight in the bore.

josht

iTrader: (2)

I am using the 2005 factory LQ4 harness.

I assumed since it is a gen III engine it would have EV1 plugs, not that I have access to look at it anyway..

I am thinking of changing up my intake combo:
I am not sure I want to run a L92 setup, I don't know how cost effective it will be.

The bottom line is I have to replace the truck intake.

5150mechanic

iTrader: (6)

Pretty much what I'm building.
Iron 6.0
Stock L92's w/ 918's, prob take 030. off (more compression!)
Trick Flow cam
Wilson 90mm. TB
LS2 Flat tops full float w/ LS2 rods (gotta get the CR up)
L76 intake w/ included injectors
02 truck harness, will change the inj. plugs with EV6 plugs from Casper
I would get the complete manifold, sell the TB

5150mechanic

iTrader: (6)

Can I reuse the ps/wp/alt/ac comp with C5/LS2/Cts-v brackets & hardware?
Should I use a LS2 water pump 89017592 $183.02 S&H $40.26?
What do I need to replace top get rid of the truck clutch/fan?

Maybe the a/c pump,
If you have the money, the cts-v drive set up is nice and tight, but will require the water pump you mentioned, caddy alt, p/s pump and all corrosponding brackets from the cts-v

What ever water pump you use just don't run the fan and clutch, go to an electric.

I like the LS2 pump or should I say caddy/ vette 6.0 pump since the GTO still uses the big pulley/ f-body style pump.

I guess if you run the LS2 pump with f-body brackets you need to pull the pulley out about 3/8" for proper belt alignment

josht

iTrader: (2)

I have gotten different answers on will and will not work with mixing and matching accessories. I will be using the truck stuff with a LS1 water pump pulley on the truck water pump and a Speartech tensioner. I will have to notch the frame to use AC in the factory location. I was told that this combination will work.

I know their will be issues with the LQ4 power steering pulley and clearance. Using spacers should resolve this. The other person doing this swap into a GTO used all F-body accessories, brackets & hardware. I would rather spend the money on other hardware/parts if I have that option.

I will be running electric fans with the new radiator.

TT402LS1

iTrader: (5)

You may want to check S&P for a bracket that moves the AC pump forward. This way all assy. will run on one belt, and the compressor will clear the frame. This way you dont need to cut on the frame.

Ron

5150mechanic

iTrader: (6)

Or,,, price the f-body brackets new from GM,,,, Dirt cheap! Rather than use an alternator for an f-body use one for say a 98 s-10 with a 4.3, a little cheaper. The only thing that really costs' is the p/s assy. I'm curious on moving the a/c pump forward too and using the main belt to drive it. I like S&P's but it's bank. I think I could use the stock nippendenso pump and use the clutch assy. from a 02 or so duramax (6 rib pulley) and make or modify my own brackets. I don't think you would want to put an f-body waterpump pulley on a truck pump, the water outlet will get in the way of the throttle body I think. Then again why switch pulleys? Just use the f-body pump.

TT402LS1

iTrader: (5)

The S&P brackes will move the AC pump forward and uses a Fbody balancer. I would also use a Fbody or Corvette WP if you are going to be using a Fbody type intake.

Ron