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Valvetrain Tick "ON STOCK CAM"

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Old Jan 11, 2010 | 11:57 AM
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Default Valvetrain Tick "ON STOCK CAM"

Had several locals guys I know listen to it, and eveyone agrees it sounds like a failed lifter. I pulled tha head off the bank the tick was coming from, and inspected the lifters. They look perfect. Cam looks perfect. Valves look perfect. Rockers, pushrods , springs, seats, etc all good to go. Is it possible that a lifter can fail without any visual indications? Perhaps a stuck plunger.

I also plan to run my summer weight oil again 15w50. I'm suspect that the winter weight 10w40 might be to light and I starved a lifter !?

Pulled the driver side today, eveything looks perfect.

I have brand new ls7 lifters in hand, ready to go in. All the drivetrain looks to be good, valve springs, valves look good, cam looks good, no visual damage AT! ALL


Do I tear it down further or put in new lifters and new oil, re-measure for the pushrods and crank?

Make ur suggestion and why!?
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Old Jan 20, 2010 | 12:53 PM
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65 views and nothing.... sigh! Come on guys!
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Old Jan 21, 2010 | 03:52 PM
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What valve springs are you running? Are you spinning the hell out of it?

Robin
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Old Jan 21, 2010 | 09:38 PM
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How many miles has it been doing it for? What preload are you running on your lifters? You can try a slightly different length pushrod to see if you can find a spot the lifter will work properly at. I had a few lifters that didn't like the preload I was using and would tick occasionally, fixed 90% with a .050 longer pushrod.
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Old Feb 11, 2010 | 06:16 PM
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Originally Posted by Robin L
What valve springs are you running? Are you spinning the hell out of it?

Robin
PAC springs
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Old Feb 11, 2010 | 06:18 PM
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I found the culprit today.......



Cylinder 8 crank/rod bearing was spun, creating slop where the large side of the rod connects to the crank. None of the small scratches found on the crank were significant enough to catch a nail on. Nevetheless my engine builder encouraged me to send the entire rotating assembly out to be regrinded, polished and balanced. The inside of the top crank bearing was worn down to the copper. So we decided the clevits p bearings were too soft. So we will replace them with sum hardened race u bearings. On the contrary, I think it was the fact that the bearings were soft and forgiving that prevented much worse findings...I'm also considering a new oil pump, (but cant find a upgraded one) along with new heads and cam.



I'm so happy i didnt mess up any of my rods or pistons.
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Old Feb 14, 2010 | 06:35 PM
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Was the bearing "spun" or just worn badly?
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Old Feb 17, 2010 | 04:18 PM
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Originally Posted by gnfan
Was the bearing "spun" or just worn badly?
ok ok, it was just badly worn, not spun sorry lol

After speaking with a few ppl, that build boost motors for a living, i found that the rod and crank clearances for my block were far to tight for a boosted 6.0



This is also why my oil pressure was abnormally high. It was 1.5 thousandths when it should have been more like 2-2.5 thousandths. The problem is being fixed.... I'm still just happy I didnt break any of my diamond pistons or eagle rods I have a few hot spots on my crank, but they should polish out.... more to come!
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Old Feb 17, 2010 | 05:26 PM
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Lets see, too tighten of tolerances and 15W50 oil, not a good combination.
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Old Feb 18, 2010 | 02:17 PM
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yeah i know right.. im just happy nothing got really hurt....
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