1SLwLS1

iTrader: (6)

I suspected that my new engine was running a little hot (2002 stock temp gauge) due to the fact that I can see a little variance in the needle when I am coming home from work in the afternoons. Usually during lunch and the commute to work, the needle perfectly centers the "2" in 210 and when I am driving home, it is a little higher, as well by the time I get home, the oil pressure is around 30-35# hot idle, so I knew that my oil temps were creeping up as well.

I finally scraped together the cash and wired in a oil temp and cylinder head temp gauge for my car this weekend. I went with Autometer units and went ahead and got the cylinder head temp unit as it comes with the sender needed to use the 2277 adapter for the plug in the passenger rear head. When cruising around for lunch, the oil temp got up to around 225-230, stupid temporary short sweep gauges, and my oil pressure was around 35-40#, which I would think is normal. My cylinder head temp never got above 185-190F which confused me. I guess one of the (2) previous owners put a 160* thermostat in it.

Anyway, I know my oil temp is going to go higher tonight on the drive home, if the pattern continues. I have read cruising around town, 240F should be about the max. I will post the results from tonights trip home, but from the threads I have read through, 4+ years old or irrelevant, I shouldn't have a problem.

This is with the stock LS1 pan, oil temp sender tapped from the cover right above the oil filter with VR1 20w-50 and K&N filter, no cooler, yet. Looking for your thoughts and opinions on what I should see. Right now, 97F and should hold that through 4PM when I leave work.

sscamaroburn02

iTrader: (14)

houston heat sucks!!!

1SLwLS1

iTrader: (6)

1SLwLS1

iTrader: (6)

Here are the results. Had camera (iPhone) ready as I pulled into drive way and snapped these pictures to not skew the results.

Wouldn't the passenger rear coolant port read higher (if any different at all) than the stock piece due to cylinders 7 & 8 running a little hotter?

WKMCD

iTrader: (2)

Bigger engines make more heat. I added a DeWitts rad with oil cooler when I did the 403. Really glad I have it now with the 427.

nysbadmk8

Also that 20w50 sheds less heat than thinner oils... I had the same issue as you before, 403 stroker, 220-240 cruising, using 20w50 oil, getting to 250 or better when beating it.

Installed an oil cooler, and am now running rotella t 15w40. My temps dont exceed 200, I will be taping off some of my oil cooler to get the temps up a bit more.

rsz288

What are you specifically concerned with?

If the 20W50 is synthetic it should be fine at those temps.

ECT port at rear of passenger head would show lower than front of drivers side head.

1SLwLS1

iTrader: (6)

Yea, I want to get an oil cooler, but a decent unit is pricey. Maybe for the time being I will throw on a cheap $50 B&M unit with a thermostat and hope the cheapness doesn't throw off my pressure too much.

At this current time, I am not concerned with anything, my post was asking optimal temp. The VR1 is NOT synthetic.

Why would the PS rear port show lower than DS front?

bozzhawg

The VR1 comes in a syntehic now..... I use the VR1 synthetic 10w-30... They also make a VR1 20w-50 synthetic.... Napa sells it... You will prob have to order it from their local warehouse but they have it here in Houston.... The hub location on Aldine Bender has it....

1SLwLS1

iTrader: (6)

Yea, I know I almost confused it with what I was picking up. The guy at the counter was scanning them and it came up more expensive, I was like WTF? We then realized the mistake and he pulled some bottle out of the back. I was just clarifying that I am not using synthetic.

nysbadmk8

Dont cheap out on the oil cooler, you will lose way too much pressure across the cooler. The earls cooler with 10an fittings is 200.

1SLwLS1

iTrader: (6)

Noted. Doesn't matter, after the 408 swap I can't afford crap anyway. If I keep my foot out of it during the day, it stays below 240, so I'm not necessarily worried.

So, is it safe to assume 240F and less is OK during the Texas heat summer with normal driving?

nysbadmk8

Yeah.. its fine

rsz288

250F is pretty well the upper limit for straight mineral oil. After that it dies quickly.

Coolant has been past more combustion chambers.

nysbadmk8

Think you got it backwards, the coolant feeds from the front.. thats why 7 and 8 are the hottest cyl.

1SLwLS1

iTrader: (6)

My understanding is that the flow goes into the block via the DS and out of the block on the PS. If that is correct, read here, then the stock sensor would read the coolest and the hottest point would be at the front of the PS and the second hottest would be at the PS rear port, how I am hooked up.

edge04

iTrader: (9)

sorry to highjack. What oil cooler does everyone rec?

1SLwLS1

iTrader: (6)

rsz288

Coolant flow is in through the block and out of the heads - from front to back in the block, from back to front in the heads. And in parallel around each cylinder up into the heads.

Coolant at the rear cylinder has been through the block only. By the time the coolant gets back to the front of the heads it has been past up to 4 cylinders and 4 combustion chambers.

The temp sensor is at the highest temp point - front of DS head as that is the most critical/highest temp location for max temp monitoring.

The water pump feeds each bank in parallel. Two outlets from radiator outlet/pump and two inlets back to radiator.

1SLwLS1

iTrader: (6)

Ahh crap, you're right. I was thinking we had 1 inlet and 1 outlet on the mating surface of the water pump, but we have that per bank.

Hmmm. Now I need to think of the best way to rectify this situation.