LQ4/9 Gurus!
09-03-2010 | 12:06 PM
#1
LQ4/9 Gurus! Okay, it is about time for me to start buying parts, but I have a few questions and knew that this would be the right place to ask. For simplicity, I will just make a list.
1. I will buying the block first (duh) and, since it is iron, is it okay to sit outside till I get heads or will rust attack the cylinder walls? I live on the water.
2. What heads do I need to be able to swap my LS6 manifold over?
3. If using the LS6 manifold is a bad idea, what manifold should I use?
4. When shopping internals, is it the same as an LS2?
5. I want this to be a high compression/occasional nitrous motor, what parts of the bottom end are good? Obvious I am going to run higher compression pistons, but how are the rods and cranks?
6. Is the LQ4/9 have any notorious problems? When I get the motor what do I check for? (You can use technical words, I'm not looking for a 'the metal thing behind the black thing')
7. If the crank isn't too strong, should I stroke it?
8. What wire harness/PCM modifications need to be done?
9. What's the story on the reluctor wheel?
I think that is about it, if you can answer any of these, I'd be stoked. I appreciate the help!
1. I will buying the block first (duh) and, since it is iron, is it okay to sit outside till I get heads or will rust attack the cylinder walls? I live on the water.
2. What heads do I need to be able to swap my LS6 manifold over?
3. If using the LS6 manifold is a bad idea, what manifold should I use?
4. When shopping internals, is it the same as an LS2?
5. I want this to be a high compression/occasional nitrous motor, what parts of the bottom end are good? Obvious I am going to run higher compression pistons, but how are the rods and cranks?
6. Is the LQ4/9 have any notorious problems? When I get the motor what do I check for? (You can use technical words, I'm not looking for a 'the metal thing behind the black thing')
7. If the crank isn't too strong, should I stroke it?
8. What wire harness/PCM modifications need to be done?
9. What's the story on the reluctor wheel?
I think that is about it, if you can answer any of these, I'd be stoked. I appreciate the help!
09-03-2010 | 04:36 PM
#2
Okay, it is about time for me to start buying parts, but I have a few questions and knew that this would be the right place to ask. For simplicity, I will just make a list.
1. I will buying the block first (duh) and, since it is iron, is it okay to sit outside till I get heads or will rust attack the cylinder walls? I live on the water.
Yes rust will build up, takes only a slight amount of pitting to have issues machining the block, by that I mean it won't clean up at .030, If the water passages are caked with rust that acts as an thermal insulator.
2. What heads do I need to be able to swap my LS6 manifold over?
Any of the cathedral port heads will work, casting numbers 853, 241, 243, 799, 317 etc.
3. If using the LS6 manifold is a bad idea, what manifold should I use?
LS6 manifold is fine for under 500rwhp
4. When shopping internals, is it the same as an LS2?
yes.
5. I want this to be a high compression/occasional nitrous motor, what parts of the bottom end are good? Obvious I am going to run higher compression pistons, but how are the rods and cranks?
Crankshafts are strong, rods are weak
6. Is the LQ4/9 have any notorious problems? When I get the motor what do I check for? (You can use technical words, I'm not looking for a 'the metal thing behind the black thing') least amount of rust as possible, check cylinder walls visually for cracks. If you plan on reusing the crankshaft make sure it is, newer style rear flange.
7. If the crank isn't too strong, should I stroke it?
8. What wire harness/PCM modifications need to be done?
Nothing at all, 1 bolt hole in the block needs to be drilled for alternator bracket.
9. What's the story on the reluctor wheel?
GM computers pre 2006 use 24x reluctor wheel, after use 58x
I think that is about it, if you can answer any of these, I'd be stoked. I appreciate the help!
1. I will buying the block first (duh) and, since it is iron, is it okay to sit outside till I get heads or will rust attack the cylinder walls? I live on the water.
Yes rust will build up, takes only a slight amount of pitting to have issues machining the block, by that I mean it won't clean up at .030, If the water passages are caked with rust that acts as an thermal insulator.
2. What heads do I need to be able to swap my LS6 manifold over?
Any of the cathedral port heads will work, casting numbers 853, 241, 243, 799, 317 etc.
3. If using the LS6 manifold is a bad idea, what manifold should I use?
LS6 manifold is fine for under 500rwhp
4. When shopping internals, is it the same as an LS2?
yes.
5. I want this to be a high compression/occasional nitrous motor, what parts of the bottom end are good? Obvious I am going to run higher compression pistons, but how are the rods and cranks?
Crankshafts are strong, rods are weak
6. Is the LQ4/9 have any notorious problems? When I get the motor what do I check for? (You can use technical words, I'm not looking for a 'the metal thing behind the black thing') least amount of rust as possible, check cylinder walls visually for cracks. If you plan on reusing the crankshaft make sure it is, newer style rear flange.
7. If the crank isn't too strong, should I stroke it?
8. What wire harness/PCM modifications need to be done?
Nothing at all, 1 bolt hole in the block needs to be drilled for alternator bracket.
9. What's the story on the reluctor wheel?
GM computers pre 2006 use 24x reluctor wheel, after use 58x
I think that is about it, if you can answer any of these, I'd be stoked. I appreciate the help!
Heres a picture of the crankshaft flanges, the wide flange was 1999-2000 trucks, all cars and 2000+ trucks are narrow flange. Wide flange is not desirable.
Last edited by AES Racing; 09-03-2010 at 04:44 PM.
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Homer_Simpson (12-06-2021)
09-04-2010 | 10:13 AM
#4
The l92 head is rectangular port and the ls6 manifold is cathedral port so if you found some way to make those fit, please let us know.
What would you delete VATS for if it is going in an f-body? If it was being swapped into an old school car then yes. The OP never stated what car so we don't know.
09-07-2010 | 02:08 PM
#5
It's going in an fbody. But the compression ratio doesn't matter as long as the blocks are the same. I'm changing the pistons and heads. Anyone know a good static compression calculator?
EDIT: How much is too much compression on this motor? I want to run about 11:1 or a tad bit more.
EDIT: How much is too much compression on this motor? I want to run about 11:1 or a tad bit more.
09-07-2010 | 02:26 PM
#6
The L92 head will not work with the ls6 manifold. You will need an intake like the ls3, a fast or edelbrock made for the heads, or one of the other truck style that are made for l92 heads. The ls6 will work with the other heads stock 5.3, 6.0, ls1, ls6, ls2 (so 853, 241, 243...)
09-07-2010 | 02:47 PM
#7
It's going in an fbody. But the compression ratio doesn't matter as long as the blocks are the same. I'm changing the pistons and heads. Anyone know a good static compression calculator?
EDIT: How much is too much compression on this motor? I want to run about 11:1 or a tad bit more.
EDIT: How much is too much compression on this motor? I want to run about 11:1 or a tad bit more.
generally up to 11.8:1 is fine on pump fuel
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