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LS7 valve spring tool

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Old 12-05-2010, 07:41 PM
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Default LS7 valve spring tool

What are you guys using for a valve spring removal / install tool for a LS7?

Will the L92 / LS3 style tool work?

Thanks!
Old 12-05-2010, 08:07 PM
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http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/LS1-L...Q5fAccessories

That's a good one.
Old 12-07-2010, 05:01 PM
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thanks! guess i'll buy that one.
Old 12-07-2010, 05:16 PM
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I made one of those little painful compared to the type that does 2 springs at once like the comp one etc. Contact Speed Inc.
Old 12-07-2010, 05:43 PM
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We do have the "Speed Inc" version on hand. It is used normally for the LS3 heads, but since the bolt spacing is the same on the ls7 head, you can use it on them as well.

121.95. Does 2 springs at once. Very nice setup.
Old 12-07-2010, 11:26 PM
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Originally Posted by John@Scoggin
We do have the "Speed Inc" version on hand. It is used normally for the LS3 heads, but since the bolt spacing is the same on the ls7 head, you can use it on them as well.

121.95. Does 2 springs at once. Very nice setup.
this is true. Just depends on what money you'd like to plop down and how little time you have to do it in.
Old 12-07-2010, 11:28 PM
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You'll need a little air hose too with the right adapter so you can air up the cylinders to prevent the valves from falling out of it.
Old 12-08-2010, 03:07 PM
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Originally Posted by IDRIVEAG8GT
You'll need a little air hose too with the right adapter so you can air up the cylinders to prevent the valves from falling out of it.
Not nessary to use compressed air you just crank it over so that you are on TDC on each cylinder that you are changing the spring on...there is a sticky on it in here for the sequence that you use ... not hard at all...use the search function...... Here ya go I made it EZ 4 ya...just get number one cylinder at TDC and you are ready to go.


Top dead center method
This method requires you to put the piston at the highest position in the bore, so that when you start to compress the spring, the valve can only drop until it hits the piston. When the piston is at top dead center, the valve can't move very far at all.



This method is a bit more elegant. Rotate your motor over by hand until your cam gear and crank gear are dot to dot like you set them up as earlier. At this position, piston 1 and 6 should be at top dead center. You can change the 4 springs on these 2 cylinders now using the instructions below. After you change those 4, then, rotate the crankshaft a full 90 degrees, and the cam gear dot will turn 45 degrees, as if it is pointing to 7:30 if it were a clock. Now piston 8 and 5 are at the top and can be changed. Rotate another 90 degrees on the crank and your cam gear dot will now be at 9 o'clock. Piston 7 and 4 can now have their springs changed. And FINALLY, rotate the crank another 90 degrees and the cam gear dot will be at 10:30. You can now change your remaining four springs on piston 3 and 2.

Once again, that's 1 & 6, rotate 90, 8 & 5, rotate 90, 7 & 4, rotate 90, 3 & 2.

Last edited by slt200mph; 12-08-2010 at 03:18 PM.
Old 12-08-2010, 05:33 PM
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Originally Posted by slt200mph
Not nessary to use compressed air you just crank it over so that you are on TDC on each cylinder that you are changing the spring on...there is a sticky on it in here for the sequence that you use ... not hard at all...use the search function...... Here ya go I made it EZ 4 ya...just get number one cylinder at TDC and you are ready to go.


Top dead center method
This method requires you to put the piston at the highest position in the bore, so that when you start to compress the spring, the valve can only drop until it hits the piston. When the piston is at top dead center, the valve can't move very far at all.



This method is a bit more elegant. Rotate your motor over by hand until your cam gear and crank gear are dot to dot like you set them up as earlier. At this position, piston 1 and 6 should be at top dead center. You can change the 4 springs on these 2 cylinders now using the instructions below. After you change those 4, then, rotate the crankshaft a full 90 degrees, and the cam gear dot will turn 45 degrees, as if it is pointing to 7:30 if it were a clock. Now piston 8 and 5 are at the top and can be changed. Rotate another 90 degrees on the crank and your cam gear dot will now be at 9 o'clock. Piston 7 and 4 can now have their springs changed. And FINALLY, rotate the crank another 90 degrees and the cam gear dot will be at 10:30. You can now change your remaining four springs on piston 3 and 2.

Once again, that's 1 & 6, rotate 90, 8 & 5, rotate 90, 7 & 4, rotate 90, 3 & 2.
Yep he's right. However, if time is an issue and you want to save the frustration from going to one side and then the other per cylinder, a hose do-dad makes it easy.
Old 12-08-2010, 05:45 PM
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If the valve stem seals are good, the valves wont drop that much.
Old 12-08-2010, 05:46 PM
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I hear ya and I do have a air compressor in my garage but it is a PIA to screw and unscrew the air fitting ... I find it easier and faster to just use the TDC method ... after 45 years of hot rodding I have figured out what works with the least amount of hassle ...
Old 12-08-2010, 05:49 PM
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Originally Posted by slt200mph
I hear ya and I do have a air compressor in my garage but it is a PIA to screw and unscrew the air fitting ... I find it easier and faster to just use the TDC method ... after 45 years of hot rodding I have figured out what works with the least amount of hassle ...
Ha I know where you're coming from. I just fitted one from an old compression tester so it functions as a quick connect.



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