iron or ali.... which is better
#2
TECH Veteran
iTrader: (11)
In the LS world the bigger the bore the more your cylinder head choices start to open up. For example, with a 6.2 block you can run the Texas Speed PRC LS7 small bore head which requires a 4.065 bore, which you really wouldn't want to do to an iron block because it will make the cylinder walls thin. Those heads will make a ton of power if you decide to stroke the 6.2 out to a 416 or something of that nature. Don't worry about strength, there are guys in the forced induction section that push the alum blocks to 8-9-1000hp. In stock form
#3
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Join Date: Nov 2004
Location: Tampa FL
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Iron is stronger. As far as bore size thats what they make sleves for. I have always wanted to make a 4.125 bore X 3.622 stroke 387 CI motor that would breath deep and spin to the stratosphere.
#5
TECH Veteran
iTrader: (11)
As far as sleeves. Why would you want to sleeve a block to get bore when there already might be a block you can use that already has enough bore. Nobody would want to buy a block to then have to sleeve it unless they want the superdeck from ERL and their stronger sleeves.
#6
Moderator
iTrader: (20)
In the LS world the bigger the bore the more your cylinder head choices start to open up. For example, with a 6.2 block you can run the Texas Speed PRC LS7 small bore head which requires a 4.065 bore, which you really wouldn't want to do to an iron block because it will make the cylinder walls thin. Those heads will make a ton of power if you decide to stroke the 6.2 out to a 416 or something of that nature. Don't worry about strength, there are guys in the forced induction section that push the alum blocks to 8-9-1000hp. In stock form
#7
TECH Veteran
iTrader: (11)
I know you know and I know the limitations on these blocks and what we would do to our own motors, but there are alot of guys who don't know so I keep them on the safe side of 4.030-040 on an iron block.
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#8
12 Second Club
iTrader: (49)
That is your own engine and I would do the same thing, but I would not tell the masses on ls1tech that it is ok to punch out an iron block that far and then some one throws 28lbs of boost or 250 shot and detonates and it cracks.
I know you know and I know the limitations on these blocks and what we would do to our own motors, but there are alot of guys who don't know so I keep them on the safe side of 4.030-040 on an iron block.
I know you know and I know the limitations on these blocks and what we would do to our own motors, but there are alot of guys who don't know so I keep them on the safe side of 4.030-040 on an iron block.
#16
TECH Fanatic
iTrader: (2)
I just get a kick out of it, when I read a build thread they do a LQ4 build or 370 iron build.
Then about 6 months later they are posting up all these pics of tubular k members and a-arms, pulling the carpet, throwing the A/C out, no radio etc.
"OMG i'm under 3400# now with these parts it should drop off 2/10ths!!"
Yup, only cost you $1500+ in parts, no comforts (A/C, sound deadening, carpet etc.) when you could have all that for another $4-500 or so up front to get a aluminum block and maintain the same weight.
My car is 3360# (1860 on front axle) with me in it, and a completely full tank(16 gal). I have a/c, cruise, heat, all the sound deadener, carpet, etc. No comforts have been touched. The difference with an iron block as the only change would be 3470# (1970 on front axle), doesnt seem like much until you type out the numbers
Then about 6 months later they are posting up all these pics of tubular k members and a-arms, pulling the carpet, throwing the A/C out, no radio etc.
"OMG i'm under 3400# now with these parts it should drop off 2/10ths!!"
Yup, only cost you $1500+ in parts, no comforts (A/C, sound deadening, carpet etc.) when you could have all that for another $4-500 or so up front to get a aluminum block and maintain the same weight.
My car is 3360# (1860 on front axle) with me in it, and a completely full tank(16 gal). I have a/c, cruise, heat, all the sound deadener, carpet, etc. No comforts have been touched. The difference with an iron block as the only change would be 3470# (1970 on front axle), doesnt seem like much until you type out the numbers
#17
Banned
iTrader: (2)
What's your budget?
And FWIW......I asked the question about weight difference between the two blocks and how it feels for city driving to go to an iron block. I was able to get rides in two Trans Ams that switched to iron.......there is ZERO difference in feel. So if you're going for big power, go iron. 800 RWHP or less, stay aluminum, but you'll need to resleeve an aluminum block which costs like $1,600.
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#18
12 Second Club
iTrader: (49)
I just get a kick out of it, when I read a build thread they do a LQ4 build or 370 iron build.
Then about 6 months later they are posting up all these pics of tubular k members and a-arms, pulling the carpet, throwing the A/C out, no radio etc.
"OMG i'm under 3400# now with these parts it should drop off 2/10ths!!"
Yup, only cost you $1500+ in parts, no comforts (A/C, sound deadening, carpet etc.) when you could have all that for another $4-500 or so up front to get a aluminum block and maintain the same weight.
My car is 3360# (1860 on front axle) with me in it, and a completely full tank(16 gal). I have a/c, cruise, heat, all the sound deadener, carpet, etc. No comforts have been touched. The difference with an iron block as the only change would be 3470# (1970 on front axle), doesnt seem like much until you type out the numbers
Then about 6 months later they are posting up all these pics of tubular k members and a-arms, pulling the carpet, throwing the A/C out, no radio etc.
"OMG i'm under 3400# now with these parts it should drop off 2/10ths!!"
Yup, only cost you $1500+ in parts, no comforts (A/C, sound deadening, carpet etc.) when you could have all that for another $4-500 or so up front to get a aluminum block and maintain the same weight.
My car is 3360# (1860 on front axle) with me in it, and a completely full tank(16 gal). I have a/c, cruise, heat, all the sound deadener, carpet, etc. No comforts have been touched. The difference with an iron block as the only change would be 3470# (1970 on front axle), doesnt seem like much until you type out the numbers
With the right setup in the front end, you can lose the spare tire and jack, move the battery and not ever notice the added weight, and still shift more weight to the rear on acceleration....for 4-500 less than an aluminum block.
#19
Banned
iTrader: (3)
That makes no sense. It doesn't take a tubular k member, a arms, and removal of every creature comfort to lose a buck ten off the car.
With the right setup in the front end, you can lose the spare tire and jack, move the battery and not ever notice the added weight, and still shift more weight to the rear on acceleration....for 4-500 less than an aluminum block.
With the right setup in the front end, you can lose the spare tire and jack, move the battery and not ever notice the added weight, and still shift more weight to the rear on acceleration....for 4-500 less than an aluminum block.