V8Rumble

iTrader: (9)

Hey all,

For those who aren't aware, I've been working on a conversion project, trying to get a brand-new, 0-mile, never-been-fired 2008 model-year L92 engine into the car in my signature. While I've been held up by lack of funds for QUITE A WHILE, I've recently started making "normal" money again, which has allowed me to try to continue work on it again.

I recently found out that the SFI-certified bellhousing that I'd bought interfered with the exhaust, so I removed & sold it - UNFORTUNATELY, I was trying to be "efficient" & so I used my air-driven impact gun for several groups of bolts, including those that held the flywheel to the crank - which led to FIVE of the six bolt holes in the back of the crank getting screwed up to a greater or lesser extent.

I've taken it to a machine shop who is (at least IN THEORY) able to repair the stripped threads in the back of the crank with Time-Sert inserts (somewhat like "helicoils on steroids"). Initially, the guy who runs the machine shop said that he thought that he could fix it with the crankshaft still in the engine - but that was when we thought that it was just one of the holes messed up.

After we found out that five of the holes were messed up, the machine shop found a used flexplate thinking that they might be able to use that as a guide to allow them to 'drill straight'. UNFORTUNATELY (again), that just doesn't have enough depth to serve as a workable "fixture" for drilling by hand.

So, this afternoon they called me up & said that they'll need to remove the crankshaft so that they can throw it into a drill-press fixture which will allow them to drill the five holes perfectly straight - BUT, he told me that they won't be able to (or perhaps willing to) reinstall the crank into the engine when they're done... (WTF??!?)

So, NOW I'm wondering what the hell I should do.

* Should I have them do the repair & try to throw it back together myself?? (NOT especially comfortable with that option, even though I have a fairly-decent torque wrench... I think that it's the timing assembly that has me nervous, since it's a VVT engine.) The repair is probably going to cost in the neighborhood of $180 or so, I'm guessing, he quoted me at $100 for the actual repair of the five holes, & the rest would be incidental time/labor charges at $80/hr.

* Should I TRY to find a replacement crank & swap them out?? (I don't like that idea as I've heard that cranks can get messed up if dropped, and I don't know how to check them).

* The "most appealing" option to me (right now) is to say SCREW IT & get a new stroker crankshaft, even though that's probably the most-expensive option. BUT, I don't know if there are any that will work with the stock rods & pistons, etc. & I do NOT want to replace those (like I said, this is a brand-new, never-fired engine). If it's not possible to use a stroker crank with the stock rotating assembly, then that's simply not a realistic option for me.

* Actually, the FINAL option is the most appealing - just say "To HELL with this engine" and buy a new bullet from Mast, etc. (OK, so that's just a pipe dream...)

What do YOU guys think??? Is there another option that I haven't thought of?? I told the guy I'd give him an answer tomorrow morning, so I'd appreciate any constructive advice I can get right now...

Thanks all.

V8Rumble

iTrader: (9)

For whatever it's worth, I also have a brand-new Comp cam sitting on the shelf that's ready to go into the engine. I'd originally planned on doing the first year or so with stock internals, since I figured it'd be a lot easier to tune, & easier to drive while I'm doing the 500-mile clutch break-in - but, if I'm going to have to pull the crankshaft, well...

86Z28USAF

iTrader: (1)

Might as well see if it'll be worth getting a new crank. PERSONALLY I would just get a new crank.

SShep71

iTrader: (5)

Buy another crank, and bolt that sucker in. For waht you are gonna pay in machine shop time you can get another crank in (not repaired condition) and just swap them. It isnt hard its just detail oriented. I think there are some youtube videos about it.

Jimbo1367

Aggreed. A different crank. Who designed the cam you will install? "CAM" Installed a Patrick G custom VVT cam https://ls1tech.com/forums/generatio...vvt-cam-4.html and he has stellar results

I am glad to see you back on your swap. I am looking forward to your updates.

V8Rumble

iTrader: (9)

THANKS guys!

86Z28USAF & SShep71 - I think I agree with you two, in fact, when I woke up this morning, that's what I was thinking I would do. Going to price rotating assemblies, just for $#its & giggles, but honestly, I'm thinking 'stock replacement' at this point.

Jimbo1367 - Thanks for the kind words amigo! I'm glad to be 'back at it' as well. I figure that if I just put some steady work into it each & every week, I'll have it ready to GO by springtime. (Of course being back in a job where I'm making enough money to do this helps as well...) I have some neat ideas in mind that are giving me a bit of the old enthusiasm back, & I'm looking forward to "showing it off" when it's done!

schnellttz06

Make sure you get a stock GM replacement crank though. Even a stock size aftermarket crank would cause issues because they have filleted journals so your stock bearings wont work and maybe even your stock rods. But while it's apart you may as well put arp hardware in.

V8Rumble

iTrader: (9)

GOOD info, thanks schnellttz06!!

schnellttz06

Yeah no problem, I didnt know that either but luckily I ended up getting the right bearings by accident for my build. If you do use ARP main studs, you might need to go one size under on your bearings, I had to and now I am stuck with a set of stock size bearings.