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LUNATI voodoo crankshaft concerns

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Old Nov 22, 2013 | 02:27 PM
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Default LUNATI voodoo crankshaft concerns

Well I have been running Callies Compstar cranks with great success and they are good quality, well my most recent order I had to get a Lunati voodoo series because the Callies was out and when the Lunati arrived the quality was pretty skecthy the oil holes were not even champhered not a big deal I normally touch them up myself and the reluctor wheel came not installed and now I have to spend even more time and money on top of the $800+ for the crank to have that installed? and there was no paperwork so I do not even know the current bobweight? Has anyone else used these cranks and had the same concerns? I called the vendor couple times and got 3 different answers and some wise a** attitude from one person that found the need to tell me you need spend $2,000 to expect a quality crankshaft......

Last edited by 1bad8118; Nov 23, 2013 at 10:34 PM.
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Old Nov 22, 2013 | 10:33 PM
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Will be following this thread to see if anyone has had similar concerns. I plan on using a Lunati rotating assembly for an LQ4 build I'm about to start.
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Old Nov 23, 2013 | 12:56 AM
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Default Crank it.

Send that do it yourself back to get mor lov.

I been criticized before for this but at Scogging Dickie I get a Scot non twisted steel forged 4"stroker for under $800. rated at 1,200 plus hp and is micro polished better than the slayer and chamfered with the rite relucter installed.
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Old Nov 23, 2013 | 10:11 PM
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Originally Posted by CAMSTER
Send that do it yourself back to get mor lov.

I been criticized before for this but at Scogging Dickie I get a Scot non twisted steel forged 4"stroker for under $800. rated at 1,200 plus hp and is micro polished better than the slayer and chamfered with the rite relucter installed.
I have to agree with you, the Scat stuff I have used has been right on the money and consistent good quality even the raw forging areas look good on the Scat cranks. I can understand the reluctor left off for balancing purposes in case you need to drill that rear counter weight, the snout has machining lines you can feel and this is a press fit precision machined area for the balancer? it has grind marks on the weights like they were in an enormous hurry to deburr it? I dug out an old eagle I had layin around and the RA on the journals on that was better than this crank? I called Lunati 3 times and each time I got a different story and I have always been fond of them and never had a complaint till now and it seems like I am dealing with another company when compared to my past dealings with them....I understand that $800 is considered budget for a crank, but quality should still be a concern at any price to a company.
The most alarming thing is one of the people at Lunati I spoke to asked me what I expected for a budget crank? if they feel that way their advertising should say that and not ramble on how great of a part it is.
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Old Nov 23, 2013 | 10:28 PM
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Originally Posted by Brian Hoss
Will be following this thread to see if anyone has had similar concerns. I plan on using a Lunati rotating assembly for an LQ4 build I'm about to start.
I almost purchased a full Lunati assembly, but I am not a big fan of the 4032 material Mahle pistons that most of the Lunati kits use in them. I worked for a top engine shop and a well known manufacturer for a while and at the speed shop we used Mahle by customer request quite a bit. At this time coatings were newer and I think people were under the impression coatings were a miracle worker that would make a piston so much better than another? I saw some strange issues with them we thought to be a combination of design and material related that only occurred with that brand?
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Old Nov 24, 2013 | 12:01 AM
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Originally Posted by 1bad8118
I almost purchased a full Lunati assembly, but I am not a big fan of the 4032 material Mahle pistons that most of the Lunati kits use in them. I worked for a top engine shop and a well known manufacturer for a while and at the speed shop we used Mahle by customer request quite a bit. At this time coatings were newer and I think people were under the impression coatings were a miracle worker that would make a piston so much better than another? I saw some strange issues with them we thought to be a combination of design and material related that only occurred with that brand?
Not to derail your original question, but as far as Mahle goes, I'm a big fan. After dealing with many of those top builders in my daily life and seeing the tighter clearances that the 4032 material gives and the increased longevity, its perfect for me in a street/strip application. If I were in a much more severe application, I'd go with the 2618 all day long. But as it sets for this build, I'm still strongly considering the Lunati rotating assembly. If I can find some comfort from the replies to your question.
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Old Dec 1, 2013 | 10:39 AM
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Originally Posted by Brian Hoss
Not to derail your original question, but as far as Mahle goes, I'm a big fan. After dealing with many of those top builders in my daily life and seeing the tighter clearances that the 4032 material gives and the increased longevity, its perfect for me in a street/strip application. If I were in a much more severe application, I'd go with the 2618 all day long. But as it sets for this build, I'm still strongly considering the Lunati rotating assembly. If I can find some comfort from the replies to your question.
I understand the benefits of 4032 pistons but I have seen many of them brake at the ring land area with only small power adder applications they are not nearly as forgiving as a 2618 and for tight clearance we are only talking around .003" difference.
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Old Dec 4, 2013 | 07:54 PM
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Finally Lunati has some of their rotating assembly information online.

http://www.lunatipower.com/PDF/Lunat...Assemblies.pdf
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