SSSTANG#1

iTrader: (14)

Siemens-Deka injectors work on the Mast intake. Mine are 80 lb/hr.

SSSTANG#1

iTrader: (14)

Btw, I love the cannon plug idea.

LSX67RS/SS

thx Stang.....
Question did those injectors have o-rings on the end and if so how do you assure they don't "slip" down as the intake heats up and the press fit loosens up or this just isn't going to happen?

SSSTANG#1

iTrader: (14)

I lubed the o-rings and stuck them in. I don't remember being concerned at all that the o-rings would come off.

SSSTANG#1

iTrader: (14)

I found this pic with a view of the injector boss. As you can see, there is a groove for the o-ring.


Here is the only pic I have of an injector and you can barely see the o-ring to the right.

BOLO

iTrader: (40)

I have the MAST LS7 4500 Efi intake as well. I too, run Siemens injectors, same as SSSTANG but 60#'s

LSX67RS/SS

thx guys, just took a look and verified there's a relief cut as yours for the o-ring. I'm going to say good to go without the little plastic cups on the ends. Although i am going to call injector vendor and ask about the differences in spray pattern and atomization with and without the caps.....

I'm also considering to re-dyno...over the holidays, i'd like to know if that caps made a difference at all and now i have a 2" primaries rather than 1 3/4". another benefit i can verify i terminated all my connections properly thru the cannon plugs...

Avarookie

iTrader: (8)

So, have you had a chance to get to the dyno yet? Very curious to see if the changes made significant gains or not.

Briou

iTrader: (1)

Man I really like those firewall connectors....where did you get them? Price?

Firebirdmuscle

iTrader: (16)

very nice build you have here. I am currently debating between a heavy powered all motor 454 or a procharged 402 build.

D9HP

They look like military style circular connectors. Most rugged connectors like that are produced by Amphenol, which is what I would recommend using as they are absolutely bulletproof.

He said he used them in the service but they don't look to be like the Amphenol brand. They actually look nicer with a cleaner finish. Either way you can find them on Digi-Key.

Here's a small 10 pin mated pair example:
http://www.digikey.com/product-detai...70)-ND/1209830

http://www.digikey.com/product-detai...25)-ND/1209779

Great build - I'm following along!

Avarookie

iTrader: (8)

Military here as well, those connectors work great. Once installed, they are quick, and very easy to use. To keep things simple, whenever possible either color code them, or use different sizes, this will help make it quicker and easier to use.

LSX67RS/SS

Hey guys thanks for the encouraging words;

Don’t think another dyno run is going to happen, the shop is closing and hes going to build pro-stock engines in Tx. Much to my surprise, he’ll be done here in Phx soon. Supposedly NHRA has made some significant rule changes for 2016 for Pro-Stock and he thinks its going to gain in popularity…bummer for me. I’ll just have to get the car down the track to get some real numbers and use the seat of my pants dyno….hopefully in 2016

As for the connectors they were Amphenol connectors but hated the amphenol catalog therefore I used www.conesys.com catalog for determine which ones I needed. I stuck with the series II plugs and sent request for quotes to several companies, Procure International inc & Interstate Connecting Components are the two I used although another member used Prowireusa.com but they didn’t have what I was looking for. Expect to pay ~$30 -40 per side (male and female) and don’t forget the backshell strain reliefs which run ~$15 ea.

I used 4 in total; 1 for my fuel system, 1 quick disconnect and the gas tank comes out
Two plugs for my Holley HP and engine gauges on the firewall and another under the driver side fender which supplies 12v to the front half of the car. I heavily modified my Holley harness to tidy up the wire run so going this route is not for the faint of heart. The Crank, Cam and O2 sensors are shielded so really thinking it thru before cutting is highly recommended.
In the military we soldered all the wires into the plug but I found that configuration difficult to source therefore I used the crimp style which requires a special crimper. I picked one up on ebay for ~$90 and love it. Its super easy to use and it’s a very good crimp, I did several pull tests and couldn’t pull one out.
As for my progress, I’m looking to finish the entire harness under the dash by the new year, its turning out nicely, very clean. I’ll post pictures shortly.

LSX67RS/SS

btw i love the way your engine looks...thinking i might powder coat my fuel rails black also...

LSX67RS/SS

understand this is potentially a loaded question and could get whole bunch of different opinions but i'm at the point of turning the key. What Oil type should i consider....we used "Driven Racing Oil XP4 (15W50) in the test cell for initial break-in.

SSSTANG#1

iTrader: (14)

Driven BR30 for break in and LS30 after that.

blk00ss

iTrader: (66)

This if you feel like having to order your oil online and got deep pockets lol. I run vr1 10-30.

LSX67RS/SS

LOL....although deep pockets is all relative I went with the LS30. However I started adding up how much i really needed with the dry sump syst and all....it was a $120 purchase for just motor oil.

Par for the course on this build... multiply my estimates by 3....damn!


thanks for the input guys.....