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416 LS3 Build Underway (Pics inside)

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Old 04-11-2016, 10:13 PM
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For those that swap in a bigger pump such as Walbro 450 or Aeromotive 340, did you upgrade any wiring harnesses, like the wiring in the sending unit(bulkhead wiring connection)? Hot wire kit?
Old 04-12-2016, 08:35 PM
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Ran main power cables from relocated batt/cut of switch to starter. Starter to +positive junction box,junction box to alternator.
Negative terminal from battery to frame.
Where else do I need to ground the motor? Block to frame? Driver side cylinder head to cowl? I appreciate it very much for any suggestions, thank you.
Old 04-12-2016, 10:16 PM
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Originally Posted by BOLO
For those that swap in a bigger pump such as Walbro 450 or Aeromotive 340, did you upgrade any wiring harnesses, like the wiring in the sending unit(bulkhead wiring connection)? Hot wire kit?
Personally I would run the hot wire kit. It's going to prevent(or drastically reduce) any voltage drop to the pump under heavy load. I'm sure some people will say, "I didn't use the kit and it works fine, etc"

Originally Posted by BOLO
Ran main power cables from relocated batt/cut of switch to starter. Starter to +positive junction box,junction box to alternator.
Negative terminal from battery to frame.
Where else do I need to ground the motor? Block to frame? Driver side cylinder head to cowl? I appreciate it very much for any suggestions, thank you.
Ideally I would ground it from the neg post to the engine, engine to frame at the bare minimum.

I would run a smaller ground from the head to the cowl area and probably one from the neg battery post to the rear of the car.

The gauge of wire, length, battery size, starter draw, unibody, SFC's, cage, etc should all be taken into account when deciding how many grounds and their locations.

OEM uses more than one grounding location especially for sensor and PCM grounds with good reason.
Old 04-14-2016, 10:13 PM
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Originally Posted by LilJayV10
Personally I would run the hot wire kit. It's going to prevent(or drastically reduce) any voltage drop to the pump under heavy load. I'm sure some people will say, "I didn't use the kit and it works fine, etc"



Ideally I would ground it from the neg post to the engine, engine to frame at the bare minimum.

I would run a smaller ground from the head to the cowl area and probably one from the neg battery post to the rear of the car.

The gauge of wire, length, battery size, starter draw, unibody, SFC's, cage, etc should all be taken into account when deciding how many grounds and their locations.

OEM uses more than one grounding location especially for sensor and PCM grounds with good reason.
I went ahead and ordered the new Aeromotive 340Lph #11540 fuel pump as well as a "hot wire kit' from Racetonix. Braided stainless hoses for feed and return lines as well.
Grounded a #2 ga. cable on pass. side block to frame. Another ground strap in front of driver side head to frame. Ground strap from wire harness to back of driver side head. And battery(rear spare tire location) negative post to frame with #2 ga. cable. Let me know, if you guys have better suggestions, thanks. I'm almost there!
Old 04-21-2016, 10:39 PM
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Pics of fuel pump installation. First start up coming soon.
From Walbro 255 LPH to new Aeromotive Stealth 340 LPH fuel pump.




































Old 04-22-2016, 05:59 AM
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Looks good man! Keep the updates comin.
Old 04-22-2016, 01:11 PM
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I think I will die before this car starts
Old 04-22-2016, 01:18 PM
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Nah, just the little things that take time but you are getting there and it will pay off in the end.
Old 04-22-2016, 05:45 PM
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Originally Posted by StockC6
I think I will die before this car starts
Easy there! The man also has other priorities that take precedence over this build. He's almost there!
Old 04-23-2016, 07:54 AM
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Very nice build, doing similar short block but going with a Hi Ram and ProCharger. Running Callies Ultra gear in another engine (410) it is awesome stuff. Good luck!
Old 04-25-2016, 08:51 AM
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Originally Posted by Kytong
Easy there! The man also has other priorities that take precedence over this build. He's almost there!
Obviously joking man.
Old 04-25-2016, 08:54 AM
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Bolo we should have my c6 paid off in 1.5 months, then we are going to rush and pay off our prius c. Then I get to start my build . I wanted to do a 416 build but found out the ls2 would need to be re-sleeved.

So I guess I have to decide wether or not to use the ls2 block and do the 402, or get a different block. If I get a different block I may just go with the ls7. I wanted to put my ls2 internals in my 2003 Silverado (4.8) and get an all new rotating assembly for the ls2, but maybe I will just put the entire ls2 in the Silver Rado!
Old 04-25-2016, 01:13 PM
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Originally Posted by StockC6
Obviously joking man.
No prob. It's all good. Just sticking up for my brotha
Old 04-25-2016, 03:12 PM
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Impressive !
Old 04-25-2016, 03:56 PM
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Mr BOLO,
JUST start it. Lol
Old 04-25-2016, 05:09 PM
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Fuel system looks purdy.
Old 04-28-2016, 10:18 PM
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UPDATE: Finally, and I mean finally on the the tail end of this long build. I put all the fluids in---oil, coolant, fuel. Double and triple check all electrical connectors, bolts, -AN lines, and fittings. This beast is ready for its first start up tomorrow. I will post vids and pics then. I can't wait.
Old 04-29-2016, 04:29 AM
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It has been a long road Butch, I've been there to. Looking forward to hearing it.
Old 04-29-2016, 02:43 PM
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Can't wait as I am sure you are the same. It's a good day when the work comes to a pay off. Good luck with firing her up!
Old 04-30-2016, 07:02 AM
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UPDATE:
Initial start up was not 100% successful. She would fire up, but will not turn over and hold idle. However, I am very happy and relieved that the engine sounds great and nasty wanting to come alive! Plenty of oil pressure, no fuel or oil leaks. So with that said, I have to get back with my tuner and see whats going on. I will update as soon as I can.


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