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got some arp retainer bolts since i ruined one of the stocks but looks like they are very tight with clearance and im worried they might rub.. anyone use them? its hard to tell in the photo but looks like its under 1mm clearance..
The plate is countersunk for the OEM style bolt. A regular shouldered bolt shouldn't be used there regardless of clearance unless you use an older style plate that is not countersunk. You can find replacement bolts at a hardware store, or even online at Fastenal.
The plate is countersunk for the OEM style bolt. A regular shouldered bolt should be used there regardless of clearance unless you use an older style plate that is not countersunk. You can find replacement bolts at a hardware store, or even online at Fastenal.
Are you joking or do you not know what you are talking about ?????
"The plate is countersunk for the OEM style bolt. A regular shouldered bolt should be used there regardless of clearance"
- if the plate is countersunk you use countersunk bolts "use regardless of clearance" you must have bad luck when you are thinking !!
"A regular shouldered bolt should be used there regardless of clearance unless you use an older style plate that is not countersunk"
WHAT if the plate is not countersunk you use regular bolts IF thy give you required clarance
do you even know what a countersúnk bolt is ??????????
You couldn't pay me to put a countersunk bolt on the cam retainer plate whether it's countersunk or not. Use the regular hex bolts. If you're worried, trim the head down some.
KCS has forgotten more about these engines than most on this site know. He might have worded something poorly, but don't make the mistake thinking he's a bad mechanic.
And, before GAtsma points it out, the thread is like 7 years old, so not sure why it got brought back like that...
Are you joking or do you not know what you are talking about ?????
"The plate is countersunk for the OEM style bolt. A regular shouldered bolt should be used there regardless of clearance"
- if the plate is countersunk you use countersunk bolts "use regardless of clearance" you must have bad luck when you are thinking !!
"A regular shouldered bolt should be used there regardless of clearance unless you use an older style plate that is not countersunk"
WHAT if the plate is not countersunk you use regular bolts IF thy give you required clarance
do you even know what a countersúnk bolt is ??????????
That was just a typo. Thank you for bringing that to my attention so that I could fix it.
Originally Posted by omalley34male
And you are the moderator for this forum yeaah you are not going to be my mechanic thats for shure
Hey guys, I know this post was revived from awhile but I have a similar question. GEN 4 countersunk plate and OEM bolts. Are they all the same length? I have exhausted about every resort to figure out why the motor isnt rotating by hand after a few turns. I will make a post about it for insight.
Lsleeper.. I was just assembling an LS motor yesterday and had a similar situation.. Couple things here to check.. Are you 100000% percent sure you put the main caps on facing the right direction? It's easy to put one, or more, on facing the wrong direction. They WILL bolt down when you put them in facing the wrong way, but they will lock the crank up.
#2. I had a cheap aftermarket timing chain dampener that came with it's own bolts. That bolts were TOO LONG and they passed into the engine and were stopping the counter weight on the crank for the 1 and 2 cylinder from rotating. It would turn back and forth but only about 1/4" before locking up the crank.
#3. WRONG bearings.. If you are assembling this engine, and have not already done so.. You must measure the ID of the main caps with the bearing inserts in place, and then measure the journal on the crank, and verify that you have the proper clearance.
#4. Thrust bearing issues.. If the thrust bearing is too tight, or the crank not machined correctly, this may prevent the crank from spinning.
#5. Reluctor ring issues. I had a crank changed over from 58 to 24 tooth reluctor one time and they did not press it on all the way.. it was contacting the block at the back and making a terrible noise, and intermittently stopping the crank.
Just a few things to check off the top of my head.
Motor states together as a shortblock. ran fine before. no issues. the only thing I have changed/removed would be cam/vvt gear, camshaft (used dowel pins for lifters). untouched oil pump. head wise, only thing changed to as pushrods to hardened 7.425, .550 LS springs, and that’s it.
At this point I’ve already ordered the BTR PDS Torque cam. Makes insanely good numbers for the numbers. and I want to LSA this thing next. I will update on when we remove heads. If something is in cylinder, it has to be either carbon holding it that broke off possibly, or a freak accident on something in a cylinder.
11-20-2014, 11:37 PM
cam retainer bolt clearance 
