And the hits just keep coming...
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TECH Junkie
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From: Port Neches, TX
And the hits just keep coming... Last week, had to send my custom Wiseco pistons back because the (factory LS7) rod small ends were interfering on the underside of the crown. Today, I get my block unwrapped and on the stand to find out it never got "tanked" after machining and cam bearing installation.
Can these blocks (L92) be hand cleaned with the cam bearings installed?
I don't want machining chips (0.005" bore hone, line-hone mains, deck block) going through the system on startup...
Can these blocks (L92) be hand cleaned with the cam bearings installed?
I don't want machining chips (0.005" bore hone, line-hone mains, deck block) going through the system on startup...
Launching!
Joined: Dec 2014
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Hmmm, I am sure that I mentioned the potential for this potential issue on another thread, which is also why GM would not sell the uprated Hypereutectic piston with the thicker gudgeon boss's with out the matching Titanium Rod's, which were re-profiled on the little end's.
Last edited by KiwiKid; Jul 7, 2015 at 07:32 PM.
Thread Starter
TECH Junkie
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From: Port Neches, TX
I remember that thread, although I still have no idea what a gudgeon is. 
Wiseco is taking care of the problem. 
This shortblock job has been nothing but a series of unfortunate "miscommunications" so far...
I need to know if the block can be properly cleaned with the cam bearings installed.
I'm prolly gonna see if the vendor will subtract the cost of the "hot tanking" since it obviously was not done. If the cam bearings need to come out, I'll ask about replacements for those too...
Wiseco is taking care of the problem. This shortblock job has been nothing but a series of unfortunate "miscommunications" so far...I need to know if the block can be properly cleaned with the cam bearings installed.
I'm prolly gonna see if the vendor will subtract the cost of the "hot tanking" since it obviously was not done. If the cam bearings need to come out, I'll ask about replacements for those too...
since the machine shop was the one at fault by not hot tanking the block, at the VERY least they should deduct the cost of that process (that's if you plan on cleaning it by hand, if that's even possible - let along a wise decision). If this were my motor, I'd have them remove the cam bearings, hot tank the block, clean it the right way, and then provide and install new cam bearings. I don't know the particulars of your motor build but it doesn't sound cheap. The last thing you want is to be cruising along with a couple hundred miles on the motor, and a bearing gets wiped out by the machining glitter.
You can clean the block with a power washer at a quarter car wash...take your time and it will come out perfect. Once you are done blow it off with compressed air and spray down with WD-40 right away before the sleeves start rusting.
Yes, you can clean them with the cam bearings installed. The oil passage runs alongside it so where it intersects, it's doesn't dead end and trap particles. You can run a small brush through there to make sure everything is cleaned out.
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Launching!
Joined: Dec 2014
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Here is a link to Wikipedia that will explain what a Gudgeon pin is in the "Queen's English"
When I refer to the Piston's Gudgeon boss's, I am referring to the portion of the piston that the Gudgeon pin is located, and must be sufficiently robust to transfer the interconnecting load's generated by the reciprocating mass.
When an engine is over revved on a missed gearshift, the piston, in very simplistic terms tries to rip itself off the gudgeon pin, which is, I am told, what was happening with a lot of stick-shift Ls7 Corvette engines, hence why GM strengthened the Piston's gudgeon-pin receiving boss's, because of all the warranty claims.
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Gudgeon_pin
Cheers,
Mark.
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TECH Junkie
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From: Port Neches, TX
Thanks for the explanation Mark.
After a few e-mails today, the shop says they did steam clean the block before the cam bearings went in. I guess I was expecting an "old school" cleaning where the outside is as spotless as the inside. Now I have to figure out how to get the outside clean enough for paint. Last engine I did, I sealed it up externally and glass-beaded it. This is too far disassembled for that, at least for now...
After a few e-mails today, the shop says they did steam clean the block before the cam bearings went in. I guess I was expecting an "old school" cleaning where the outside is as spotless as the inside. Now I have to figure out how to get the outside clean enough for paint. Last engine I did, I sealed it up externally and glass-beaded it. This is too far disassembled for that, at least for now...
Thanks for the explanation Mark.
After a few e-mails today, the shop says they did steam clean the block before the cam bearings went in. I guess I was expecting an "old school" cleaning where the outside is as spotless as the inside. Now I have to figure out how to get the outside clean enough for paint. Last engine I did, I sealed it up externally and glass-beaded it. This is too far disassembled for that, at least for now...
After a few e-mails today, the shop says they did steam clean the block before the cam bearings went in. I guess I was expecting an "old school" cleaning where the outside is as spotless as the inside. Now I have to figure out how to get the outside clean enough for paint. Last engine I did, I sealed it up externally and glass-beaded it. This is too far disassembled for that, at least for now...
Here's my method-
1st . Remove the plugs from the oil galleys and blow compressed air through them. Blow air through the small feed hole in the cam bearings.
2nd . Wash it with dish washing soap and water. You can use a plastic bristled brush to help dislodge any particles trapped in tight places.
3rd . Use round plastic bristled cleaning brushes with solvent of your choice in a spray bottle ( I use lacquer thinner) to clean out the oil galleys. Constantly flush the galleys with solvent and blow compressed air. I use empty Windex (or equivalent) spray bottles because they have parts made to resist solvents due to the ammonia in the glass cleaner.
Last wash the whole block from top to bottom with solvent, rotating it a few times on the engine stand until all the solvent coming off is clean. Then wipe the bores with engine oil on a lint-free cloth to prevent rust. Reinstall the galley plugs with the appropriate sealant. Don't use Teflon tape.
1st . Remove the plugs from the oil galleys and blow compressed air through them. Blow air through the small feed hole in the cam bearings.
2nd . Wash it with dish washing soap and water. You can use a plastic bristled brush to help dislodge any particles trapped in tight places.
3rd . Use round plastic bristled cleaning brushes with solvent of your choice in a spray bottle ( I use lacquer thinner) to clean out the oil galleys. Constantly flush the galleys with solvent and blow compressed air. I use empty Windex (or equivalent) spray bottles because they have parts made to resist solvents due to the ammonia in the glass cleaner.
Last wash the whole block from top to bottom with solvent, rotating it a few times on the engine stand until all the solvent coming off is clean. Then wipe the bores with engine oil on a lint-free cloth to prevent rust. Reinstall the galley plugs with the appropriate sealant. Don't use Teflon tape.
Thread Starter
TECH Junkie
iTrader: (11)
Joined: Jul 2005
Posts: 3,782
Likes: 7
From: Port Neches, TX
Here's my method-
1st . Remove the plugs from the oil galleys and blow compressed air through them. Blow air through the small feed hole in the cam bearings.
2nd . Wash it with dish washing soap and water. You can use a plastic bristled brush to help dislodge any particles trapped in tight places.
3rd . Use round plastic bristled cleaning brushes with solvent of your choice in a spray bottle ( I use lacquer thinner) to clean out the oil galleys. Constantly flush the galleys with solvent and blow compressed air. I use empty Windex (or equivalent) spray bottles because they have parts made to resist solvents due to the ammonia in the glass cleaner.
Last wash the whole block from top to bottom with solvent, rotating it a few times on the engine stand until all the solvent coming off is clean. Then wipe the bores with engine oil on a lint-free cloth to prevent rust. Reinstall the galley plugs with the appropriate sealant. Don't use Teflon tape.
1st . Remove the plugs from the oil galleys and blow compressed air through them. Blow air through the small feed hole in the cam bearings.
2nd . Wash it with dish washing soap and water. You can use a plastic bristled brush to help dislodge any particles trapped in tight places.
3rd . Use round plastic bristled cleaning brushes with solvent of your choice in a spray bottle ( I use lacquer thinner) to clean out the oil galleys. Constantly flush the galleys with solvent and blow compressed air. I use empty Windex (or equivalent) spray bottles because they have parts made to resist solvents due to the ammonia in the glass cleaner.
Last wash the whole block from top to bottom with solvent, rotating it a few times on the engine stand until all the solvent coming off is clean. Then wipe the bores with engine oil on a lint-free cloth to prevent rust. Reinstall the galley plugs with the appropriate sealant. Don't use Teflon tape.