Is a mild/small cam worth doing?
#1
Is a mild/small cam worth doing?
I know you guys have got to be sick of cam questions by now....
Got a 2009 H3 with the LH8 5.3 (aluminum gen 4, 243/799 heads, 10:1 compression, NO D.O.D.) Only mods are an aftermarket intake, rear cat delete and black widow exhaust, and a tune.
Have been considering the next mod to be a cam swap. Would have to be something pretty tame, maybe a cam made for "towing"?
Needs to have no problems idling with a/c blasting in traffic. Lol
My question: Is it even worth doing at that point? I don't know a lot about spec'ing cam shafts, but I know I would be looking at something pretty mild. Not sure what the gains would be on something like that, and if it would justify the cost/install.
Local shop told me it would pick up around 30hp, but that sounds a little optimistic to me.
Recent pic just so there is something besides text in this post!
Got a 2009 H3 with the LH8 5.3 (aluminum gen 4, 243/799 heads, 10:1 compression, NO D.O.D.) Only mods are an aftermarket intake, rear cat delete and black widow exhaust, and a tune.
Have been considering the next mod to be a cam swap. Would have to be something pretty tame, maybe a cam made for "towing"?
Needs to have no problems idling with a/c blasting in traffic. Lol
My question: Is it even worth doing at that point? I don't know a lot about spec'ing cam shafts, but I know I would be looking at something pretty mild. Not sure what the gains would be on something like that, and if it would justify the cost/install.
Local shop told me it would pick up around 30hp, but that sounds a little optimistic to me.
Recent pic just so there is something besides text in this post!
#2
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Join Date: Aug 2009
Location: Coast of San Mateo County Between Pacifica & HMB
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Kip @ CAM MOTION,Martin @ Tick, and Brian Tooley @ BTR all
Have at least 2 options for 5.3 Truck cams that will give you
Not only 20+ RWHP but more importantly MORE torque throughout
Your driving range 1500-3500 RPM and even a little better mileage
Under highway cruise conditions! Headers will add even more!
Do a search plenty of happy campers.
Have at least 2 options for 5.3 Truck cams that will give you
Not only 20+ RWHP but more importantly MORE torque throughout
Your driving range 1500-3500 RPM and even a little better mileage
Under highway cruise conditions! Headers will add even more!
Do a search plenty of happy campers.
Last edited by NAVYBLUE210; 07-16-2015 at 03:05 PM.
#5
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iTrader: (18)
https://ls1tech.com/forums/dynamomet...hp-22rwtq.html
You can't beat that. I vote you toss a Cam Motion Stage 2 in there. The difference just driving around is great, but the extra power when you really let it eat is amazing. And the best part is it does work and you can still have it shift at 6000rpm so it's easier on the transmission and engine than a cam that needs to rev higher.
You can't beat that. I vote you toss a Cam Motion Stage 2 in there. The difference just driving around is great, but the extra power when you really let it eat is amazing. And the best part is it does work and you can still have it shift at 6000rpm so it's easier on the transmission and engine than a cam that needs to rev higher.
#6
https://ls1tech.com/forums/dynamomet...hp-22rwtq.html
You can't beat that. I vote you toss a Cam Motion Stage 2 in there. The difference just driving around is great, but the extra power when you really let it eat is amazing. And the best part is it does work and you can still have it shift at 6000rpm so it's easier on the transmission and engine than a cam that needs to rev higher.
You can't beat that. I vote you toss a Cam Motion Stage 2 in there. The difference just driving around is great, but the extra power when you really let it eat is amazing. And the best part is it does work and you can still have it shift at 6000rpm so it's easier on the transmission and engine than a cam that needs to rev higher.
That's impressive! Thanks for the info and link. Looks like the way to go for me.
Did I read correctly that you were in the Fayetteville area?
#7
Ok, so the Stage2 Cam Motion is:
210/215 @ 0.050"
0.518"/0.510" Lift
LSA - 114
CL - 110
Based on that, do you guys think I would need upgraded pushrods and valve springs and lifters?
If so, which ones? Just browsing through there, I see a ton of choices. Most seem like they might be overkill for this application though.
210/215 @ 0.050"
0.518"/0.510" Lift
LSA - 114
CL - 110
Based on that, do you guys think I would need upgraded pushrods and valve springs and lifters?
If so, which ones? Just browsing through there, I see a ton of choices. Most seem like they might be overkill for this application though.
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#9
An awful lot of engineering went into that stock cam for your specific vehicle. While you can gain more HP with a new cam, it will honestly be tough to beat your present low RPM towing performance.
#10
11 Second Club
iTrader: (18)
I can assure you the truck is FAR more capable for towing now. There is a noticeable difference in easily available power in the ~2000rpm and higher range which is where my truck stays while towing but it also gains from idle all the way to my 6000rpm shift points.
You have to pull the heads to change lifters...that's a cost you would have to weigh and decide. I did not change mine.
I did not change pushrods.
I did however replace my high mileage stock valvesprings with a cheap set of ls6 style springs. You can get these for $40-60 and are valuable insurance to prevent undetectable valve float since the engine will be getting a little higher in the RPMs with the cam.
You have to pull the heads to change lifters...that's a cost you would have to weigh and decide. I did not change mine.
I did not change pushrods.
I did however replace my high mileage stock valvesprings with a cheap set of ls6 style springs. You can get these for $40-60 and are valuable insurance to prevent undetectable valve float since the engine will be getting a little higher in the RPMs with the cam.
#11
I can assure you the truck is FAR more capable for towing now. There is a noticeable difference in easily available power in the ~2000rpm and higher range which is where my truck stays while towing but it also gains from idle all the way to my 6000rpm shift points.
You have to pull the heads to change lifters...that's a cost you would have to weigh and decide. I did not change mine.
I did not change pushrods.
I did however replace my high mileage stock valvesprings with a cheap set of ls6 style springs. You can get these for $40-60 and are valuable insurance to prevent undetectable valve float since the engine will be getting a little higher in the RPMs with the cam.
You have to pull the heads to change lifters...that's a cost you would have to weigh and decide. I did not change mine.
I did not change pushrods.
I did however replace my high mileage stock valvesprings with a cheap set of ls6 style springs. You can get these for $40-60 and are valuable insurance to prevent undetectable valve float since the engine will be getting a little higher in the RPMs with the cam.
Excellent. My H3 has 4.56 gears and a 4:1 transfer case for offroad use, so keeping the RPMs in the ~2000 range is no problem.
I'd probably just keep the stock lifters honestly, and not deal with pulling the heads at this point.
Good advice on the LS6 style springs. Would definitely purchase those as well.
#12
When I installed a 212/218 cam in my Gen iv 5.3L engine during a DOD delete, I learned a little something about myself. That is how much time I spend below 2000rpm. I pull a heavy 20ft boat up and down some hilly country to and from area lakes. My stock cam was actually better at doing this. No doubt the truck has noticeably more HP, but less low grunt if you will. There is always a compromise.
#13
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iTrader: (18)
When I installed a 212/218 cam in my Gen iv 5.3L engine during a DOD delete, I learned a little something about myself. That is how much time I spend below 2000rpm. I pull a heavy 20ft boat up and down some hilly country to and from area lakes. My stock cam was actually better at doing this. No doubt the truck has noticeably more HP, but less low grunt if you will. There is always a compromise.
I do not doubt a 212/218 in a stock 5.3 would lose down low. Even a stock ls2/ls6 cam which appears just like the Cam Motion cam on paper would lose down low. I remember way back in the day when LS were new and a 224 cam was "big" for a 5.7 LS1. Now people are putting them in "mild 5.3".
Kip designed these as a "drop in" for a stock 5.3 that doesn't need a stall converter, headers, or gears to properly work. Think of it like an "RV cam" for an older 350 truck motor.
It's a very mild cam and not a "performance" cam. Basically it's probably along the lines of what GM would have engineered for these trucks if they weren't under the confines of emissions requirements and trying to optimize MPG (not that I lost any). But the lobe profile, slight bump in durations, and extra lift all come together to bump power output and torque output in a usable RPM range since they utilize the efficiency and flow of a ls style head.
Stock cam is a 190/191 .466"/.457" and this bumps it to 205/210 .510"/.510". He also offers a stage 1 which is smaller too.
I definitely understand where you are coming from and was afraid of losing my low end because I too spend most of my time under 2000rpm unless I'm cruising on the interstate where ~2000 rpm is my cruise RPM with 3.42 and my tire size.
I see a lot of guys putting in larger cams like the one you mentioned or even 220R or 224R cams. IMO most people would be happier with the smaller drop in style cam for a DD or tow truck and leave the bigger cams to hot rod trucks or swaps in cars. They just don't think a smaller cam will be "worth it" and I was one of them...but this cam proved me wrong with both seat of the pants feel and dyno/tuning data to back it up.
I honestly wouldn't want to drive a stock 5.3 truck again.