chevyrunner

iTrader: (4)

I was thinking about buying this sleeved 6.2 block for a Stroker project but I wanted to see what you guys thought about the gaps between cylinder walls? I am not really familiar with sleeved blocks so I called both RED and La sleeve company and asked them about the gaps and they both told me that the gaps are ok because there is movement in the blocks so there needs to be a gap on a stock aluminum block to allow for movement otherwise the sleeves could press against each other and crack. Just wanted to get your guys opinion on that ... Does that make sense to you guys? Like I said I've only seen a few sleeved blocks and they didn't have a gap but they were also iron blocks. Thanks in advance

Jimbo1367

I'd ask who machined and sleeved the block.

KCS

iTrader: (20)

I wouldn't argue with whatever Steve @ RED says. He's da man.

KiwiKid

All RHS cylinder blocks have this gap and it's potentially a leak source, we scrape it clean and fill it with two pot Locktite sealant, and then scrape that level when it hardens.

LivernoisMotorsports

iTrader: (1)

Here is a image of a LS2 block we sleeved to do one of our LS2/3 to LSX Stage 3 LS7 builds.

KiwiKid

It might help if you posted a full size picture instead of a thumb-nail that shows no detail. I am sure if you finish machine the sleeve's yourselves you could reduce the gap between the flats at the top to virtually nothing.

However, as I have said in my previous post once you make certain that there is no leak path the "gap" is of no consequence, if everything else checked out good you should have no issue with this block.

I have also posted it else were, but since we had to teardown a brand new rebuild on our RHS 4.165" block, to find and fix the water leak, we go to extreme measure to make sure that the head interface cannot leak water.

Besides filling the gap between the flats, we also disassemble the Cometic head gasket, b y drilling out the rivets, and lightly spray each side of the 3 layer gasket with copper-coat. We then run a fine bead of Locktite gasket sealant around each of the water way's, just prior to final assembly.

CAMSTER

iTrader: (10)

http://www.ellsworth.com/products/ad...-ml-cartridge/

Jontall

I've seen many sleeved blocks from ERL and none of them had that gap between the cylinders/sleeves.

tadams72

Yeah my ERL doesn't have the gap and I had not seen one that did before this photo. That being said, as was mentioned, if Steve from RED said it's fine, then it's fine.





ERL Superdeck I

EMpowerd3

It would come down to a few things IMO. If the sleeve manufacturer required the gap to be there or they do not. It would also depend on if the person/company installing the sleeves require the gap, it could also come down to machining errors in the sleeves or the block. As stated the gaps are not often seen on the ERL blocks. It is not part of the sleeving process and would not be the ideal finish from ERL products. Everyone will have there reasons to have or have not, I would go with whatever is said by the sleeve installer. They should stand behind it however it is done.

Steve - Race Eng

iTrader: (1)

I don't recall telling you it was OK to have a gap that wide between the sleeves. The spec on the distance between the sleeve flats is 4.398" +-.002". So the max. gap should be .004" assuming the sleeves were correctly made and block correctly machined.

Steve

DavidBoren

If you have had to find other people to ask, rather than whoever actually installed the sleeves, then I'm guessing you don't know who sleeved the block.

And that alone, gaps or not, would keep me from buying it or using it. Installing sleeves isn't something I trust to just anyone. So a block sleeved joe-smoe is already out of the question, in my opinion.

Gaps? Definitely not using it. Certainly not paying money for it.

NAVYBLUE210

^^^^^^^^^^Agreed!!^^^^^^^^^^