Evan.steeves

I bought this camaro already done up made for the track. . It drove like crap on the street.
Ls3 418 stroker. Cam 251 259 .660 .663 111 lsa
Was told to run a smaller cam What size should I go

Don't know much cam sizes to go with for this kinda motor

I only drive on street

DietCoke

iTrader: (18)

That cam is fine, find a better tuner. See attachment for tune for that cam if you want (I had the same one, and it drove like a dream)

Evan.steeves

From a small town. And only tuner around
I took it in due to the bad bucking at low rpm. He tuned it. And now it is a little better. But it breaks down at 3-4 grand He said it must be the plugs, Weird cause it didn't do that before the tune
I called Texas speed and they suggested a 231 236 cam

DietCoke

iTrader: (18)

No, and no.

Find another tuner, or use the tune I posted.

imma_stocker

iTrader: (19)

That cam should be fine for a nasty 418 with proper tuning. This isn't a typical H/C deal so your tuner will likely need a few sessions with it. FWIW, my 408 was loaded with a 427 base map for shakedown and to drive itself on/off a trailer.

What heads are you running? Are your bolt ons able to keep up with extra CFM?

Check plugs no matter what, tuner could have blown them out if he was playing instead of tuning. Try to find another tuner or get an e-tune from a sponsor.

Rise of the Phoenix

iTrader: (27)

I agree with the group. Your cam isn't the problem; your tuner is.

Tuskyz28

Might be better off with a mail tune... pat G or James Short or John Weeks would be my top 3 choices.

Evan.steeves

Heads are cnc-ported L92. I am going by the receipts that came with the car

Evan.steeves

I'm also looking for more low to mid power. Rather then high rpm power So wouldn't it be a good idea to go smaller ?

albrntout

I had same problem it was all in the tune. I tired three tuners and all failed at fixing it so I took lots of classes. One of the instructors found my issue. During ve tuning you disable several things, one is PE a previous tuner had set mine to < 8500. I'd put my money on PE being set to an absurdly high rpm or table being set to 1.0:14.7.
It's not your cam, plugs maybe fouled out, still should run fairly strong just throw codes. You may have a 1514 code going on aka your outflowing capability of maf. Basically mine would run ok till 3500-4000rpm then fall on its *** and sputter out. The reality is once the car left maf portion of tune and looked at PE tables the data was garbage and car came unglued accordingly. Now my q's for you What year is the car? What type of tune is it running? Assuming you have hpt. Does this happen driving at wot,partial or both? Do you have a wb02 on the car? Logs help when chasing these things. If you post the tune I'll gladly take a look and see if it's the same issue I had. If you post tune and logs pretty sure you'll find that beast Ls3 to haul plenty of *****.

Evan.steeves

Yes mine at wot would start to sputter around 3 grand. And after 4 grand it would come out of it and hook on. When I start the car cold It will idel really rough and quit if i give it a shot of gas. Until it warms up

CAMSTER

iTrader: (10)

There's important factors involved not disclosed have no idea why all the buss, first what static compression, gears headers pipes details how advanced or not this cam is, exhaust or intake center line.

WE only know the lsa duration and lift.

Is best first to find out what the real cam is the OP want's and it only cost 25. to run it true a software and find out where he is in relation to where he want's to be, then he can decide whether to tune it or change it, this is of course in my never to be humble opinion.

http://www.guerragroup.com/#!camshaft-help/c1mq5

flintwrench69

iTrader: (11)

That 111 lsa is odd for square port heads.

03EBZ06

Let me guess, CL tune? Please state the rest of your mods. 418s can eat a lot of cam.

albrntout

Dunno if the car falls apart at 3500-4000 rpm don't think he can skip tuning either way. Definitely shows bad tune practices aka short lived pricy 418. IMHO New cam is automatically more tuning anyway. Cost wise wouldn't it be wiser to get what you have running optimally then decide if it's good enough or not? Route Id go before spending 500.00 on a cam, 200.00 on valve springs, 110.00 on gaskets etc, then 1500.00 labor if he's not a diy, and then a 3-500 for retune that may net zero returns vs current cam anyway? Granted knowing rest of specs and actual goals would help, he may in the end need / want a cam but again labor to find if cam is the actual cam he speced and if it's installed straight up etc, alone is a large cost at a shop ( if not DIY ). Tune to optimize what he has before deeming it poor on street costs a fraction of cam swap. In the end at least your not destroying a solid platform for power.

MuhThugga

This.

If I did the math right, that cam has about 33* of overlap at .050", and if there is one thing square port heads hate, it is overlap.

flintwrench69

iTrader: (11)

I'm not claiming to be a cam expert, guru as I had Martin from Tick Performance come up with the cam for mine. I pay attention to what people are running in different setups & 113 lsa & split duration seems to be what the square port heads like. That cam is definitely designed for cathedral port heads. Guy he bought the car from probably got a deal on it tried it out. Mine is on a 113+4 lsa & I have no complaints! I guarantee the OPs car would be a totally different animal with a custom cam.

DietCoke

iTrader: (18)

I had a 257/272 on a 108 lsa that drove like a baby behind a big inch ls3. Like I said, find a better tuner.

A.R. Shale Targa

iTrader: (2)

Compression ratio does help quite a bit with larger cams and for the record wasn't yours around 14-ish to one ???
I agree with you that the OP could mellow his headache out with a killer tune, but there seems so many unknown variables in his combo as he bought it and did not build it.

DietCoke

iTrader: (18)

15 ish. lol