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I had some work done on my crate engine before the chassis arrived.
During commissioning it was slow to start and wouldnt idle either with or without a MAF connected. Scanning the codes it was throwing, cam speed was an issue that would not resolve.
Removed the cam sensor and filmed the sprocket as I did two full rotations. Turns out the Rollmaster dual row chain fitted has only 2 pulses per rev (Gen III compatible) and not the 4 required for the E85 ECU on this engine (Holden Special Vehicles VE equivalent).
Have a new 4 pulse sprocket on the way but have not been able to find a link with instructions / service manual extract on how to complete the change.
Appreciate any advice or info.
With thanks
Chris
Last edited by sydneychris; Oct 19, 2015 at 12:59 AM.
Hey man is easy just disconnect battery remove air intake, accessory drive belts, water pump harmonic damper timing chain cover (don't forget the two bolts below to the oil pan) remove the 3 bolts holding the top sprocket and timing chain replace sprocket and timing chain aligning two sprocket marks to each other in the middle, be sure all is tight replace timing cover connect cam sensor install damper water pump accessory belt cold air intake and maf sensor start up.
It's a fun 3 hour job enjoy it is a great sport which tents to bring out the best in us (and buy a lot of tools) lol.
Is the only way to go man don't learn to rely on others is always a recipe for disappointments.
Do two steps at a time consult the list then do two more you may have to buy a tool or two like harmonic damper puller and one to install it with but still less money than paying for the labor and you get to keep the tools for you and your kits in the future.
If you don't already have an ARP damper bolt you may have to buy one or just replace the factory one sense is non reusable piece as is stretch to torque, the bolt must be torque to 250 foot pounds with a torque wrench and still they come lose so use red thread lock on the last inch of thread.
You must hold the crank from turning there's different ways of doing it here's the best way to do it, remove starter and install these tool.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/like/331552368843?ul_noapp=true&chn=ps&lpid=82
You may have to buy borrow or beg a 250 foot lbs. capable torque wrench but you must use it they are not that expensive I just bought one for $74.00 at Lowes Hardware, I like the one with all metal handle so I can place a floor jack handle over it for extra leverage. http://www.lowes.com/pd_337334-22328...+torque+wrench
Those tools will equip you to handle the task like a pro still for a fraction of the cost of paying for labor without any one to disappoint you or make you wait at a place where you may not even be allowed to go next to your car and you get to keep the tools ORRR you may return some for refund lol.
Thanks gents.. clearly you read between the lines re the additional info that will be helpful with this one. Will grab the replacement bolt.. have the tools from previous exploits.. !
Chris
Last edited by sydneychris; Oct 19, 2015 at 04:19 PM.
Got the bolt from a local spares dealer.. Its an M14, 10.9 grade, not M16x2.. wont know if its the same as whats installed until I get to the shop tomorrow.
Re holding the crank in place.. the engine is installed in the car with the drivetrain connected.. was thinking this should be sufficient..?
Last edited by sydneychris; Oct 20, 2015 at 01:16 AM.
The TH bolt for the dampner was M16, not 14 as posted.
The engine builder had removed a 4 trigger cam sprocket and replaced it with a single trigger sprocket. This has been corrected with a double row Rollmaster chain and sprocket.
A couple of extra steps in the process for the version of engine I have... the sump needed to be dropped to be able to disengage the oil feeder pipe as well as a couple of bolts on the bell housing and an idler pulley removed.
All up, about 5 hours of steady as she goes work, it now starts and runs pretty nicely..
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LS3 timing chain upgrade 
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