Nightmaer

Hello all, I have searched google and this forum extensively looking for an answer as to if the lm7 (2001) can be sleeved wet or dry. I know I have the option to just get a lq4/ls2/ls3, but I'd like the novelty of the sleeved 5.3. Also, if it can be sleeved, what kind of sleeves should I get? I plan on going to Houston engine and machining later on in the week, but before I go I'd like to have all of my ducks in a row.
Cheers
Nightmaer

NAVYBLUE210

Contact RED in So CA and/or erl they pioneered and are the
Experts at sleeving LS Blocks.

Nightmaer

Thanks, I'll be in contact with them.

gnx7

iTrader: (28)

Sleeving an iron block is kinda pointless for the $

Just buy a new block
http://www.summitracing.com/search/p...ngine%20Blocks

or just get a 4.0" bore alum block
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/nal-12602691

Nightmaer

I completely understand what you are saying, I was just curious if it could be done. Reason being I'd like to push 440ci (legacy olds) and I don't want to pay an arm and a leg, so I am considering my options accordingly. In addition, I'd like to have the novelty of having a sleeved 5.3. In the end money rules all so whichever is more cost effective will be the route to go.

gnx7

iTrader: (28)

This is a good deal: resleeved LS2 for $2100obo
https://ls1tech.com/forums/parts-cla...o-pistons.html

KCS

iTrader: (20)

If you want a 440, it would probably be more cost effective to use an LSX block.

Sleeving an aluminum block is about $2000, plus the block. Machining iron is more time consuming so it costs even more than that to sleeve an iron 5.3L block. An LSX block is about the same price and you get doweled billet caps and 6 head bolts per cylinder.

Nightmaer

Good stuff, I thought it would be cheaper with an iron block versus an aluminum one (thanks for the new knowledge sir). The lsx block might be the way to go, having 6 bolt heads would be added insurance under boost. Thanks again for the comment
Cheers