76firechicken

I bought a 5.3 truck engine that needs a rebuild. I think it's out of a 99 Silverado but it will be going into a trans am.

Need a little direction because I'm new to these things, I'd prefer NA and a some comfort to it that the original 400 wouldn't offer but I'm going to need more power if I want to do this change.

So to start, internals are going to be replaced, unsure on if a stroker is the way to go but I'd like some advice here. Thought about just a stockish rebuild with the 4.8 pistons for extra compression.


Next is heads, I have the stock ones but I'm not attached to them. Port? Rebuild? Replace?

Cam I'll address later, something streetable.

The wiring harness is already scaring me but that's way down the road.

G Atsma

If more cubes are desired, it would have been better to source a 6.0. Stroking gets expensive. Find a set of 243 or 799 heads(they are identical). They are a HUGE improvement over the present ones. 799's come on all 5.3's since about 07 or 08.

76firechicken

I kinda stumbled across this one and it had everything I needed for the swap.

G Atsma

Did you get the ECM and all harnesses you could get your hands on? It will make things much easier.

76firechicken

I sure did. That was the selling point.


I have most of the accessories and wiring all the way to the starter.

G Atsma

GREAT! Hope it all goes well for ya!

bobfig

if you just do a nice rebuild with new rods and some flat top 4.8l pistons with the 799 heads you should be good to go. compression would probably be around the 10:1 so you may be able to get those heads milled a little to bring it to a 10.5:1 if you want for cheap. im thinking .015" would get you close.

what intake do you plan? not sure what will fit in the trans am but the nnbs truck intakes are suppose to be a cheap higher flow intake then the stock older one. or just get one of those holly high rise put in.

07NBSChevy

iTrader: (1)

If you plan on keeping it a 5.3L, just throw in some stock Gen4 5.3 Internals, 2007-2009 use flat top pistons with no valve reliefs, 2010-2013 use flat top pistons with valve reliefs due to the VVT. Valve reliefs wont be need for a .600 lift all out torque cam such as the 212/218.

Get some 243 heads, have a stage 1 porting done from TSP-PRC or someone reputable, keep stock valve sizing. Have them milled to achieve 10.5:1-11:1 Compression. Thinner head gasket to achieve 0.032-0.035 Quench for best burn and to allow more timing without knock, will also raise compression slightly.

A TSP 212/218 .600/.600 112 LSA is the biggest Cam I would go with for torque and using stock converter.

Stock Rocker Arms with Trunion Upgrade, BTR .660 Platinum Dual Springs, Tick Performance 0.105 Wall Pushrods to correct length.

Gen4 5.3 Truck Intake with LS7 90mm Throttle Body, possibly port the intake. Stock Gen4 5.3 FlexFuel Injectors and rails.

Then all the other goodies such as LS2 Timing Set, Melling 10295 Oil Pump, Sac City Corvette Billet Oil Barbell and if using a Gen3 Oil Pan get their Oil Bypass Delete, ATI Damper, and so on.

Now this is my opinion on an all out Torque 5.3, this will put you around 350 rwhp using an Automatic. Cam and valve sizing can change if you go up to a 349 or a 383ci.

JoeNova

I tried the Howard's rattler cam, and was very impressed.
226/234 109+6, .525/.525.

Not the best cam for power, but it sounds INSANE and makes pretty much instant torque when you stomp the throttle.

If you want power, get something else.

76firechicken

Haven't decided on intake yet. I was looking at a few different things. One I'm considering is the edelbrock that has a throttle body intake but still runs rails so I can run a factory style air cleaner in the car and make it adapt to my shaker and keep it functional. Otherwise, it will just be sitting on top not doing anything.

tech@WS6store

iTrader: (2)

We have everything you need for the build. Youd Be better off with boring it to an ls1 size for tq production. Any bigger than the tsp stg2 high lift and youre losing bottom end really. If youre not gonna use it alot for towing and hauling and just wanna have fun, our High Lift Hot Cam would get you what you want and you can either use a stall or not.
You dont HAVE to go to gen4 rods since you have the gen3s. They are an upgrade but no real need to throw more money at the thing since the gen3 are a nice rod anyway.
Thats what i would do and have done.
If you're going with a single plane efi style intake youll def want the cubic inch to combat what that intake will give up on the bottom since they dont make a dual plane efi.
If you want more info let me know!
You can also email me
Rpmspeedtech@gmail.com

76firechicken

This sounds pretty spot on with what I have in mind.


Stock rebuild with flat top pistons
Ported 243 heads
I may not go with an all out torque cam, maybe something a bit more balanced, torque is fun, but I don't want it to fall on it's face, I can run taller gears and have more RPMs and it should be a little more fun in the small car.
Intake is tbd, we'll see where I go with that.
I'll probably run a t56 tranny if I can find one I want to use. I would really like to go manual but I have an auto I can stick on there if I need to.


I'd like to see hp and tq numbers over 400 or even easing in towards 500 if possible, but I'm afraid NA that isn't gonna happen.

tech@WS6store

iTrader: (2)

If you look at the stg2 high lift truck cam from tsp youll notice it doesnt fall on its face. Same way with stg3. They pull to 6200 and 6400.
Building an iron 5.7 will get you closer to what you want really.

76firechicken

I already have this block so I think I'll keep going with it.


I do need to replace my crank so a 4.0" one may be what I need.

tech@WS6store

iTrader: (2)

Youre spending alot less for bore/hone and ls1 pistons and balance even than you would for a 4 inch crank. You need more expensive bearings for rods and mains plus still have to balance and then rods as well as no 4" stroke piston will work with stock rods so youre in for piston price as well and then file fitting rings. Over $1500 more roughly at least.

76firechicken

wasn't aware that could be done with these. Still new to this engine family.

pantera_efi

iTrader: (1)

Hi 76, my area is more directed to the electronics.
The 90mm air door is Drive By Wire, I offer a Drive By Cable conversion for $135.00 that fits the "square bolt" motor mount. (includes the TPS)

I believe your stated 1999 ECM is DBC.

I like the 212/218 cam duration choice, I would put this on a 116 C/L which is better for your converter AND better for planed C.R. increase.

I can provide the forged crankshaft both 3.622"/4.00" (1850 Bob Weight) that could save you much of the costs required for engine balance.

As stated, new crankshaft, rods, pistons, rings, bearings at $1500 + balance cost = $200.00.
I can supply the forged 4.00" crankshaft, forged pistons, forged rods (ARP), King Bearings and NPR Rings, balanced for $1850.00 FOB.

Lance