I finally pulled the head on the driver's side. There is a problem with the last cylinder. #7? There are pieces of metal that were pressed into the head and pieces on top of the piston. I guess that it must be rings/ringlands. I see there is damage to the cylinder walls (dents, scrapes) and the top of piston. Hopefully not too deep so that the block can be safely bored.

I drove to the track a couple months ago and went through tech. Everything seemed fine. When i was driving away I could hear this banging from the front. Could not really tell what was going on. Asked someone to stand next to the motor while I started it. Immediately he said shut it down, probably ran for a second, maybe two. Said it was definitely the motor and smoke came from the breather.

I built the motor in 2009. I guess the amount of damage will dictate where I go from here. Always n/a. The car ran pretty well.

 

Hey Bill,

Damn, that stinks. I think I was there, at the track, that night. Your car ran strong. So what kind of plans/options are you thinking of? I remember you talking of FI. A TT kit if I'm correct? Keep us updated & good luck on your new journey.

 

Just resleeve that hole. Lots of reputable shops doing it now at a reasonable price....

 

Well that sucks

 

^ what he said.

What stroke you running? I think the 4" + strokes kill these things too soon, too much side loading on the cylinder walls. I like to see at least a 1.7:1 rod/stroke ratio for a high rpm engine to live a while.

 

Ls7 has a 4” stroke Stock and actually have the longest sleeves out of the production blocks. I’d imagine they can handle a 4.1” stroke like **** all

The sleeves aren’t thin either they’re just not super strong material. Great NA block though for bay to bay breathing.

 

You can have one hole sleeved for about $ 250 with a darton sleeve.

 

Where at? I've got a spare LS1 block with a hurt sleeve I've been trying to fix now for a while.

 

Yeah I mean why on earth would anyone wanna put the shorter 3.62” arm in that larger bore LS7 Block

 

We have done many LS3 blocks with 4.125" strokes and it certainly doesn't look like it will last long. Yet they have no issues and the LS7 blocks with 4" or 4.100" don't last. The cylinders and blocks crack. It has to be the weakest factory block made. We stopped using them and buy a lot of RHS blocks now for 440ci. However if your not beating on them like our customers do they last for others and they are easier to have the cylinders repaired when the block isn't damaged.

 

Thanks, didn't know you could sleeve just one. May be the best option.

 

Because some people like to party

 

Hi Bill, ask a good machine shop if they can install a "thin wall" sleeve in the bad cylinder.

This method could also be called a "dry" sleeve.

Lance

 

like it's 19--8500

 

Here's the replacement sleeve information. Give Darton a call and see if they have them in stock or ask them if any of their distributors carry them.

https://dartonsleeves.com/sl_chevy.html

Part# 300-022

You can even get them from Walmart !!!!

 

The LS1 sleeves might not be as simple to resleeve since the aluminum is cast around the iron sleeves. The LS7 sleeves are pressed in so it's basically just pop the old one out and put the new one in...assuming the sleeve didn't crack.

 

427 block

 

Not going to happen for $250. I repair several of these a month.
I have never seen one where the block wasn't cracked. This requires heating the block heli arc welding using a rod of similar composition to the block and vibratory stress relief during cool down after welding. Even then some blocks won't cooperate because of core shift or other issues and can't be saved.
Also, welding causes distortion of the adjacent cylinder or cylinders. Those sleeves must be replaced as well as the bad hole.
This repair work ends up taking as much time as sleeving a good block.

Steve

 

Well my brother owns a machine shop in northern Illinois and did 1 about 2 months ago for $250. 1 cylinder was split open with a 2 inch crack. Darton sleeved it. then decked it for another $200.

 

I guess you could do it for that if you wanted. The sleeve is a $bill by itself. Not worth the risk for another $150, in my opinion, from the shops point of view. But sure, you can charge whatever you’d like.
Steve, the gentleman who your responding to, does all of Dartons R&D work, as well as holds a co-patent on the Darton sleeve for our LS engines. He knows a thing or two about this stuff.