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I'm just about finished with this build, I'm still undecided about what intake to use. I was thinking about that new fast hi ram intake but who knows when it'll be available. Another option is the lod intake. Another option is a ported fast but they don't seem worth the money over a stock intake. Here are the specs on the cam that I'll be running.
241/250 .629”/.615” 114 LSA +3
Any recommendations are links to similar builds with ls3 heads.
I think I would look at the LOD. While I cannot find similar builds having used it, the LS3 data I continue to see on it shows it seems to move a phenomenal amount of air. Your IVC might be a tad early for a 434, so another option might be a fast midlength. If I was choosing between those two, I'd go LOD.
I'm just about finished with this build, I'm still undecided about what intake to use. I was thinking about that new fast hi ram intake but who knows when it'll be available. Another option is the lod intake. Another option is a ported fast but they don't seem worth the money over a stock intake. Here are the specs on the cam that I'll be running.
241/250 .629”/.615” 114 LSA +3
Any recommendations are links to similar builds with ls3 heads.
I agree with Darth on Cam choice.
A better specification would be a 244/256 114 LSA +3
These valve events are better suited to your combination.
Well another thought is that cam will keep tq strong and the intake will allow it to rpm strong..my cam isn much bigger and with the Holley sniper, it Carrie's rpm to 8000 yet still good tq
I forgot to update this thread but the engine is installed and the first start up went fine.
I was worried about having oil pressure issues as well since this is an old erl block but im getting 60psi at cold idle, 38 at hot idle. I have been working with Pat G on a remote tune and right now I have close to 500 miles on the engine.
Right now I'm running a stock ls3 intake, 90mm ls2 throttle body and cheap 1 3/4 headers. I plan on getting a baseline dyno before I upgrade to the fast hi ram(if they ever release it) 2 inch headers and 102 throttle body. Here's a clip of the first start up.
Can we get some videos of it driving? I feel there just arent enuff of em these days. I ve about maxed out watching every single lsx swapped/built vehicle on youtube in the last 4yrs of my build...lol
Can we get some videos of it driving? I feel there just arent enuff of em these days. I ve about maxed out watching every single lsx swapped/built vehicle on youtube in the last 4yrs of my build...lol
I've ran into my first issue, it seems that I have an oil leak. The leak is coming from the back of the engine, from the rear main or cover. But before I pull the engine to replace the seals I want to make sure that this problem isn't pcv related.
I'm using a mike norris catch can, Holley valve covers, and an ls2 valley cover with the pcv valve vent built in.
I have fresh air from the cold air intake going to the nipple on the passenger side valve cover. The valley cover is connected to the top of the catch can and the side of the catch can is connected to the nipple behind the throttle body. The driver side valve cover is capped.
Originally I had the catch can connected backwards, would that cause the rear main to leak? What else should I try before checking the rear seal?
Oil pressure sending unit looks a lot like a rear main leak
Doesn't appear to be coming from there, around the sending unit and the back of the valley cover still looks clean. I'm going to try a better catch can with a one way breather to see if that fixes the problem.
Is there a noticeable amount of crank case pressure with oil cap off? Or lets say comn from existing catch can set up? Just curious how well the machine work on the motor is or how well it was put together.
Clean all the oil off of it really good with a couple cans of brake clean, even spray some into the bell to get all of the oil off. Pull the dipstick out of the tube about an inch and go drive it. If it still leaks, it’s likely not a pressure issue. Not a fool-proof method, but works most of the time.
Clean all the oil off of it really good with a couple cans of brake clean, even spray some into the bell to get all of the oil off. Pull the dipstick out of the tube about an inch and go drive it. If it still leaks, it’s likely not a pressure issue. Not a fool-proof method, but works most of the time.
I tried this and it still leaks, it seems like it's getting worse I'm hoping it's the main seal.
My builder did mention that he replaced my rear cover with a one that he had on had as mine had a hairline crack on the oil passage and would leak oil when he went to prime it.
I don't think it's a pressure issue either as this is the only spot where oil seems to leak from. I'm also going to check the freeze plug in the crank and to make sure that they aren't any porous spots on the rear of the block.
I also test fitted the new fast hi ram intake. It actually fits well with the stock Chevelle non flapper cowl hood. It's pretty tight where the throttle body sits and I might trim the bracing for the hood for a little more clearance.
I'm still undecided on running a ported throttle body or upgrading to a nw102 throttle body.
I chased an oil leak for a long time and just found it.
Ict billet oil pressure adapter was not threaded all the way through and the sensor would bottom out before crushing the washer seal.
I had to grind the end off sensor until it would crush. Problem solved
I also test fitted the new fast hi ram intake. It actually fits well with the stock Chevelle non flapper cowl hood. It's pretty tight where the throttle body sits and I might trim the bracing for the hood for a little more clearance.
I'm still undecided on running a ported throttle body or upgrading to a nw102 throttle body.
Are those fast lsxhr intakes available for purchase now?
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