When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
Or, you could throw in a melling high pressure pump and it might increase you by 15psi. And if it does, run it. Not optimum, but it'll probably Band-Aid it just enough. It's not like you are circuit racing the the thing. If you are, then maybe don't.
Bortuous, I sent you a PM. Let me know what you think.
Not so sure it's the center portion of the lifters being narrowed. The stock lifters are narrowed. Unless you mean the part of the lifter body that is not narrowed is too narrow.... Here is a shot of the lifters I just pulled from my engine that ran with 50+ psi warm idle:
They do not have the axle oiling feature, but they never let me down. I replaced them with these since I was going to crazy uber lift cam specs:
1. Plus 1 on the lambda. You should be .85-.87 for max power. There's more power in it getting the fuel right. Plus being that lean and in such hot air, I doubt yall were able to push timing at all. Now maybe you just didn't get enough runs in to really dial it in?
2. Did they install the lifters with the link bar up or down? Meaning the bar should be toward the center of the block not toward the cylinders.
Last edited by Darth_V8r; Dec 20, 2019 at 08:53 AM.
This is getting cringeworthy. I took the liberty of making a table to compare the results of the dyno graphs you posted so far. Below 6000rpm, you lost torque and horsepower.
If I were you, I would cut my losses and put all the old **** back on and load the old tune from back in August when you were making 505whp and didn't have oil pressure problems. Leave it alone until you find a "tuner" that can deliver the results you ask for. You've no doubt paid a lot of money just to lose 30whp.
1. Plus 1 on the lambda. You should be .85-.87 for max power. There's more power in it getting the fuel right. Plus being that lean and in such hot air, I doubt yall were able to push timing at all. Now maybe you just didn't get enough runs in to really dial it in?
2. Did they install the lifters with the link bar up or down? Meaning the bar should be toward the center of the block not toward the cylinders.
.85 runs harder at the track... .87 makes more power on the dyno. Whee.
If it were me at this point I think I'd throw in a melling high pressure pump and if it had 55-58psi at 7500rpm, run it. The cheapest and easiest possible fix if you don't want to continue throwing thousands at it.
Also, why did your tuner pick an abnormal 111F hot day, to dyno it. At your request because you got tired of waiting? I can't blame you. But it wasn't smart. I won't even drive my modified cars on a 111F day, let alone WOT them. And the dyno room was much hotter.
Bortous, is your tuner also the person fitting your parts, doing the mechanical work? If so which solid lifters did he initially want to run?
Most here are trying to blame the tuner but my instinct says that he's not the problem, going by your previous results. He is fitting parts at the owners request, and this time the parts don't work.
An experienced workshop will only fit parts not previously tested and recommended by them, at the customers own risk. So I'm guessing you will be paying over, and over, to have this thing sorted out. If that's the case... try a melling high pressure oil pump. Balancer, water pump, timing cover off/on.. few hours labour. It seems you want to run a high pressure oil pump anyway with ANY axle oiled lifter, as the axle oiling will always lose some pressure.
This setup will pull hard with a 5500rpm (minimum) stall converter.
Bort, time for a single turbo kit. Go back to your hydraulic lifters. Too easy with a VT-VZ commodore, there's kits off the shelf and I even see on gumtree some customs kits come along in Melbourne quite often.
Personally I feel dumb for ever bothering gathering a bunch of expensive parts for a N/A setup because of our current aussie prices. There are single S480 turbo aluminum ls2's making 800+fwhp and don't break. Simple setups. Heads/cam/hydraulic. No need to change the block for that level. Several have even gone 8's in the 1/4 in light cars.
You will spend 20k here minimum on a new ls7 build and it will struggle to be 750fwhp. Single turbo what you already have (go back to the hydraulic lifters) and it will have more power/torque than you will want in a street car.
The only reason I haven't done a single turbo on my Camaro yet, is due to lack of time (and motivation) to get it done and nothing else. If I could just wave a wand and a big pile of cash at the car tomorrow morning and say turbo yourself.... I would, in an instant.
.85 runs harder at the track... .87 makes more power on the dyno. Whee.
.95 or whatever that's showing = lean kaboom.
Yeah, I wasn't really trying to split heairs on .85 vs .87. Just saying that's where it should be. Not 0.9x. I think we are violently in agreement here.
Guys, thanks for the responses.
Darth I have replied to your message.
The tune is obviously not completed.
Engine was tuned enough to get it running to test out the oil pressure.
There is still more in it.
Also the torque figure is 1100Nm at the rear wheel which is healthy.
Launch, car already has a high pressure oil pump from Morosso.
Lifters were installed at the centre of the block too.
I asked this question.
Forced induction is out of the question due to my automatic not being able to handle the power.
I have a built 4L65E.
I will respond in more details tomorrow as it is so late over here.
Guys, thanks for the responses.
Darth I have replied to your message. The tune is obviously not completed.
Engine was tuned enough to get it running to test out the oil pressure.
There is still more in it.
Also the torque figure is 1100Nm at the rear wheel which is healthy.
Launch, car already has a high pressure oil pump from Morosso.
Lifters were installed at the centre of the block too.
I asked this question.
Forced induction is out of the question due to my automatic not being able to handle the power.
I have a built 4L65E.
I will respond in more details tomorrow as it is so late over here.
I sort of figured that they aborted tuning due to fuel pressure, and there should be more in it with tuning. Surprised they went all the way to 8200 though. I think what was suggested earlier in the thread was to take it to 3000 or so RPM without load and make sure pressure is building before ripping it.
Glad you asked about the link bar orientation. That's at least an easy one that can be crossed off the list.
Tbh I have yet to see any dyno sheets from this guy that make any sense at all.
Also, there's no justification to taking an engine to 8000 rpm while running 14:1 AFR, or at 30psi oil pressure.
I hope you reach a finish line with this soon. I'm skeptical that it will be with this guy.
You guys aren't getting it. Why blame the workshop? His previous setup made decent power with the same guy. Oil pressure was 40psi, not 30. And not the workshops fault, it's a parts fault. And he probably only did the dyno pull at the owners request, and before the engine ever got warm enough to do any damage. It was already said the tune isn't completed. I don't think the tuner would leave AFR's like that.
Bunch of drama queens in this thread trying to throw blame at the owner and the workshop, when all they did was fit parts that are SOLD as good, when they're not. Put the ******* blame where it deserves to go.. to Morel who allow these lifters to be sold. It's like you all have some kind of complex with not blaming the big guys who market these parts, when that is the issue here.
Find me one other person with a solid roller LS with these specific lifters in it. In a OEM block and a street car with some hard miles on it. Not just a one 1/4 mile pass wonder trailer queen. Because anyone could go trailer this car to a track with some slicks as is and reel off some good ET's with only 40psi oil pressure. And say "I run those lifters, I haven't had an issue". And it'll last maybe 100 runs before it eats a rod bearing. And when it does, the owner will say "I don't know why I lost a rod bearing, time for a rebuild".
6 Common C5 Corvette Failures and What's Involved In Repairing Them
Slideshow: From wobbling harmonic balancers to failed EBCMs, these are the issues that define long-term C5 ownership and what repairs typically involve.
Retro Modern Bandit Pontiac Trans AM Comes With Burt Reynolds' Autograph
Slideshow: A modern Camaro transformed into a retro icon, this limited-run "Bandit" build blends nostalgia with brute force in a way few revivals manage.
Top 10 Greatest Cadillac V Series Performance Models Ever, Ranked
Slideshow: Cadillac didn't just crash the high-performance luxury vehicle party, it showed up loud, supercharged, and occasionally a little unhinged...
Coachbuilt N2A Anteros Is an LS2-Powered C6 Corvette In Italian Clothes
Slideshow: A one-off sports car that looks like a vintage Italian exotic-but hides a C6 Corvette underneath-just sold for the price of a new mid-engine Corvette.
