If they're talking about the valve clearance in the guides, then no, pressurized oil does not go there so it won't affect oil pressure.

 

Not sure about the guides.
That's all the message said.
Both of us have been flat out this time of year and the conversation didn't go any further.
I should have a proper update tomorrow.

 

Does he mean adjusting valve lash?

 

Many of us would consider a dyno vid a "proper update"...

I was assuming he meant valve lash also when I read your post.

 

Yeah this tuner needs to get to tuning

 

Unfortunately this is all to common in these builds. Tuner goes to do his thang, than wham bam, here comes the issues man. 2 choices- take it home n fix em yourself than bring it back, or pay tuner/mechanic/shop to fix it n keep it movin. Any which way time is wasted, bills pile up, oh n still no stinkn tune or dyno video! Dammit! Lol, all good bro, your gettn closer. This is hotrodding.

 

Guys, I finally have an update.
A more serious one.
Before I get started let me say I am somewhat happy with the results so far but pissed off at the same time.
Engine is working as it should except oil pressure is still lower than what it should be.
It's reading way too low.
I have a video and dyno sheets to post.
Firstly the good points:
The engine sounds unreal. Way more alive to any hydraulic setup I have ever had.
Valvetrain is very stable. Hp Peaks at about 7000rpm and holds that power all the way to 8200rpm before falling off which is insane.
Rpm limit is set at 7600rpm.
Torque is also way up compared to before.
Engine is making as much torque as it was before with the long runners which is great now that I have a shorter runners.
The bad:
Peak power is still only at 352rwkw same as before.
And the oil pressure switch was changed and the reading is still the same.
Pressure is only going to 30psi at max rpm so something is definitely wrong.
Because of new converter modifications and that fact that it's looser setup it's eating up more hp than before.
And also, this was tuned in extreme heat also.
It is 55 degrees C in the dyno room which equates to 130 degrees fahrenheit which certainly doesn't help things.
It is a scorcher out there today.
Please note, one of the dyno sheets is out by about 1000rpm and the torque figure is wrong.
Tuner is certain these lifters are the issue. He reckons because it's such a short lifter it's dropping past lifter oil feed holes.
Engine is going to have be pulled apart yet again to check.
If these are the issue I'm going to get my money back on them.
Does anyone know of an axle oiled solid lifter that is OE spec in it's dimensions?

 

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZRbr...ature=youtu.be

Here is the video.

 

Time to set it on fire.

Or find a new tuner.

 

Im using crower, Its not apples to apples tho because of my lsx block having priority mains. Im using melling standard volume high pressure pump when up to temp 50psi at idle to 78 psi at 6000rpm

 

I'm thinking about setting it on fire.
Burning it up and purchasing a new block.
LS7 block.

 

They have better oiling.
Will see what happens when top end comes off.
Maybe lifters could be faulty.
I never had an issue before when the isky high rpm hydraulic lifters were in there.
The oil pressures you mentioned is where they should be.
Before I was at 30 PSI at idle and then it would shoot up all the way to about 80psi at higher rpm.

 

Is that lambda correct?? He’s running it soooo lean!

Man really sorry for you. I hope you get this resolved quickly. I can’t imagine going through this honestly.

 

I got no idea if that is correct or not.
I know dyno is out somewhat but don't know if that will also affect Lambda reading.
He is going away for a few weeks over the christmas period so no updates till towards the end of next month.
This is the first time ever I have had an issue like this. Ever.
Over 10 years everything was so smooth sailing.
And now from no issues to this is something I wasn't expecting.

 

You need to get some money back on those lifters if you still can. Or remove the block and bronze bush the lifter bores and restrict the lifter galley holes, then you can run ANY solid lifter and your oil pressure will be back up.

It wouldn't surprise me if the outside diameter of the lifters is slightly smaller than OEM also.. making your oil pressure even worse. (aside from the other design flaw of them)

Guys you can't blame his tuner. Seems to me like he is doing the best he can. The lifters are junk. This should go over on YB forum where I was told I'm wrong (and that so was LG motorsports) countless times about the designs of some of these LS solid lifters being no good. If it's not the lifters all else it could be from a simple cam swap was your mechanic screwed up the cam thrust plate somehow and it's leaking oil. Which is highly unlikely. It would need to be put on backwards (which it can't if gen4 style as counter sunk bolts) or he forgot to tighten it. Again, highly unlikely.

As for the dyno figure, Melbourne today was 44 degrees celcius (111F for the 'mericans). On a cold day you will no doubt be up. And not to forget the new converter lost some. So given those facts I think the power is there..... but you need to sort out the lifters and have proper oil pressure again or your rod bearings will not last.

 

Times like this is when I hate this hobby. When people sell parts and pretend they work when they don't. I should dig up the old threads with Futral Motorsports talking back and forth with another well known at the time LS workshop about bushing the lifter bores in ALL their solid roller LS builds because the design of the comp solid lifters were bleeding oil pressure from the lifter galley. Or LG Motorsports on the vette forums saying the exact same thing about the cheaper LS solid lifters. But what would the workshops who had some of the quickest N/A LS cars back in the early-late 2000's which still hold records to this day know. What would they know. So no need to dig up old threads. Let people continue to sell **** that doesn't work say it does work, if they said so it must. They have profits to make and lambos to purchase. Who am I to stop them from buying their lambo, they will just call me a hater.

 

So what is wrong with my lifters?
Are the morel 5425 not good?
What solid lifter do you know of that will bring my oil pressure back up without having to machine the lifter bores?
I have already contacted the seller and have put him on notice that there is a good chance the lifters will need to be sent back to him for a refund once the top end is off and the lifters are the issue.
Cam thrust plate is all good. I asked about it.
It's a massive pain and it's not the tuner's fault.
He wanted to go for another lifter and I chose this one.

 

I forgot to quote this. It sounds tough. Looks like you got up to 2.8 bar, which is dead on 40psi. Way too low for 7500 rpm.

For the americans wondering, that gauge is a factory HSV gauge which are fairly accurate.

Bortous were you at around 4.5 bar previously on that gauge, at max rpm?

 

From memory i was around 4.5-5 bar for sure.

 

I haven't run a solid roller in LS personally yet or in a OEM block to be able to make a call for certain on which solid lifters will work. Look at Darth's reply eariler in the thread on his oil pressure with different lifters. I will also bet that his new Cam Motion solid lifters will retain a decent oil pressure also of at least 55psi (a slight loss from the axle oiling) because the lifter body on them isn't cut out, there are no holes in them for the oil pressure to bleed away and their outside diameter is probably spot on and the orifice for the axle oiling probably isn't too large.

I will tell you this again because you didn't seem to notice the first time when I mentioned this earlier in the thread. There have been several engine builders on other forums comment specifically on the Morel axle oiling lifters having a very large orifice to oil the rollers, bigger than other makes of solid roller lifters, and also that on many of them the lifter diameter is a touch smaller than OEM. Both issues resulting in a loss of oil pressure. That's just two possible causes. That wasn't LS specific, but big block chev and they keep the issue under raps with high pressure pumps. I would assume that Morel probably have the same tolerances across the board of all makes of their axle oiled lifters. The third possibly issue is that the lifter bodies on your lifters have too big holes in them, and as it moves up and down, the holes are passing over the oil holes in the lifter galley and causing a further pressure loss. Look at the cam motion (cranes) that Darth has. No big holes, just a thin groove.

Either way, if it's not the cam thrust plate (which we know it isn't), it's the lifters, they are no good. You only have 40psi max pressure. Why the lifters are no good doesn't matter.. they are no good. Is it the enormous holes in the lifter body, is it the orifice for the axle oiling is too large, is it morels failure to keep the outside diameter exactly as OEM. Whatever it is, it's the lifters. They can't work unless you had a block with bushed lifter bores that had the holes in either sides of the bush joining the lifter galley restricted in size, and also the lifter bushes sized correctly to suit your lifters outside diameter.

If you try return them, tell them they are faulty and they are bleeding 30psi of oil pressure at rpm versus OEM lifters, and do not work. And that there is no other possible culprit other than the lifters themselves as nothing else was changed. I don't see an ebay seller taking a return on used race parts. If they do you got out of it with only labour costs.

The only other thing it could be which I just thought of, is cam motion messed up the cam core and the bearing journals are way too small versus your previous camshaft, and the oil pressure loss is from the cam bearings. But I'd bet anyone right now $500, that that is not the issue. They sell hundreds of LS cams. What are the chances they messed one up like that.