Ls2 408 stroker
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Thread Starter
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Joined: Sep 2010
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I dropped off the lifters today.
We are confident with these that the short body is the same length as the morel 5425 I have in there and we won't need to change the pushrods.
Hoping this is the case.
Top end should be coming off on Friday and engine should be completed at the end of next week
Also spoke about that new FAST tunnel Ram.
Keen to try it but will need at least a 2 inch reverse cowl in the bonnet.
To give it a neat appearance I will need to get another bonnet and get the mob to install the cowl so it looks like one piece.
Then painting of course.
I don't want to molest the original.
Will also need an aluminium pipe and pod box to complete the setup.
It will cost around 3500-4000 AUD to do this right.
So I might just get the intake for now so I can save for the rest of the parts.
The special on that intake increased and the ebay seller sold out of them not long after.
Have to wait now till they come back in stock.
On another note we were also discussing about me doing another engine and would like your input on this information.
Tuner suggested we use a DART iron block.
We re-use my current crankshaft and rods and we will just need new pistons and we can make a 427 and use LS7 heads also.
He can get a brand new DART iron block for cheap.
From what I have read it can be bored to 4.165 which is more than enough.
So a 4.130 should be good for an ls7 style head.
I'm quite sure the rockers etc are compatible.
Does anyone also know the benefits of having a raised camshaft location?
We are confident with these that the short body is the same length as the morel 5425 I have in there and we won't need to change the pushrods.
Hoping this is the case.
Top end should be coming off on Friday and engine should be completed at the end of next week
Also spoke about that new FAST tunnel Ram.
Keen to try it but will need at least a 2 inch reverse cowl in the bonnet.
To give it a neat appearance I will need to get another bonnet and get the mob to install the cowl so it looks like one piece.
Then painting of course.
I don't want to molest the original.
Will also need an aluminium pipe and pod box to complete the setup.
It will cost around 3500-4000 AUD to do this right.
So I might just get the intake for now so I can save for the rest of the parts.
The special on that intake increased and the ebay seller sold out of them not long after.
Have to wait now till they come back in stock.
On another note we were also discussing about me doing another engine and would like your input on this information.
Tuner suggested we use a DART iron block.
We re-use my current crankshaft and rods and we will just need new pistons and we can make a 427 and use LS7 heads also.
He can get a brand new DART iron block for cheap.
From what I have read it can be bored to 4.165 which is more than enough.
So a 4.130 should be good for an ls7 style head.
I'm quite sure the rockers etc are compatible.
Does anyone also know the benefits of having a raised camshaft location?
Thread Starter
TECH Addict
Joined: Sep 2010
Posts: 2,898
Likes: 467
What you think of this block?
http://www.lsxperformanceparts.com.a...re-9-240-deck/
I can get this for only $2300usd brand new
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Agreed. and between the two, go with the sleeved LS2 block. It’s windowed at the pan rails and will let the bottom end breathe better, freeing up some power/rpm.
However, if your looking to do billet main caps along with this sleeved block, your better off going aftermarket. You’ll get priority main oiling with an aftermarket block which is very appealing considering the poor design of the GM blocks oiling system for performance use.
Here’s why...
Used LS2 block $600
RED sleeving with Darton liners $2150
billet main caps $500
ARP main stud set $220
Align hone, final cylinder hone, and set up billet caps $1300
You May find a better price on machine work, IDK, but I will tell you the ductile iron Darton material is HARD and warrants a diamond hone, which in fact Darton recommends. Simple math shows I have $4770 in the block not including any shipping of the block across the country, from Ga to Cali and back, which isn’t free. I could have easily been in a RHS block or other aftermarket aluminum block. Just my 2 pennies on the subject. Carry on.
However, if your looking to do billet main caps along with this sleeved block, your better off going aftermarket. You’ll get priority main oiling with an aftermarket block which is very appealing considering the poor design of the GM blocks oiling system for performance use.
Here’s why...
Used LS2 block $600
RED sleeving with Darton liners $2150
billet main caps $500
ARP main stud set $220
Align hone, final cylinder hone, and set up billet caps $1300
You May find a better price on machine work, IDK, but I will tell you the ductile iron Darton material is HARD and warrants a diamond hone, which in fact Darton recommends. Simple math shows I have $4770 in the block not including any shipping of the block across the country, from Ga to Cali and back, which isn’t free. I could have easily been in a RHS block or other aftermarket aluminum block. Just my 2 pennies on the subject. Carry on.
I will go with the CP LSR block on my next build, but I figured most have never heard of the block, so I posted RHS (and other aftermarket aluminum block)
But I think the RHS issues were from the early units and they have been fairly problem free for the last few years? I would stay 4.155” bore anyway.
But I think the RHS issues were from the early units and they have been fairly problem free for the last few years? I would stay 4.155” bore anyway.
I done the Dart shp lsnext block for priority main oiling and skirts extend farther down to keep piston rock at bottom to a minimum for high rpm.
I shift at 7900 so I feel better about it with this block,makes up for weight penalty
I shift at 7900 so I feel better about it with this block,makes up for weight penalty
I went thru same convo with my builder...he said for boosted set up, we d be running the Dart. But for NA, even big power, the RHS i better than fine. Try not to look at the few people who ve had problems(earlier production runs for sure), but instead, look at all the people/shops who use em n dont have problems.
There are soooo many variables on what could have went wrong on the ones that cracked....I too was skeptical, but seeing how price point was the same, we chose RHS on my builders wishes. He has his reasons, many of which i ve already forgotten. Way overkill for what i m doing, but i wasnt waitn around for some deal or 2nd hand block to come around.
There are soooo many variables on what could have went wrong on the ones that cracked....I too was skeptical, but seeing how price point was the same, we chose RHS on my builders wishes. He has his reasons, many of which i ve already forgotten. Way overkill for what i m doing, but i wasnt waitn around for some deal or 2nd hand block to come around.
11 Second Club
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I'm sure I would dislike the handling/braking and overall feel of both my LS cars with 120 lbs extra in the front from a cast iron block.
Bortous.. another cheaper and lighter option is a new ls3 block for 3k aud or so from Eagle auto parts in melbourne, throw your rotator in it, new pistons, PRC small bore ls7 heads+ your solid roller or an even bigger one.. I think 416ci with ls7 heads can make 750hp engine. And you will still have a light block. A new LS7 block was only 5k AUdollars last time precision had one on ebay but now they want $6758 so not worth it imo https://www.precisionintl.com/StockS...ch=ls7%20block
Bortous.. another cheaper and lighter option is a new ls3 block for 3k aud or so from Eagle auto parts in melbourne, throw your rotator in it, new pistons, PRC small bore ls7 heads+ your solid roller or an even bigger one.. I think 416ci with ls7 heads can make 750hp engine. And you will still have a light block. A new LS7 block was only 5k AUdollars last time precision had one on ebay but now they want $6758 so not worth it imo https://www.precisionintl.com/StockS...ch=ls7%20block