LOL.. no sir

 

Darth would you prefer an email through here or a private one?

 

Quick post to update the actual build portion of the thread....

The replacement pushrod arrives today, but I'm out of town. Tomorrow, I expect to be able to get the pushrod installed. I have gone over and over, and I think I finally know what happened. When I installed the pushrod, I thought I had it in the cup, but it was actually on the ledge right by the link bar. it actually ran the first start like that, but since I didn't fully warm it up on first start, it didn't come loose. Then on second start, it popped loose when it fully warmed up, and instead of going into the cup with a ton of lash, it went out of the lifter cup. Before I left town, I verified the lifter cup and rocker cup and both unmarked, the rocker tip was still perfectly round to the degree I can measure with a .0001" caliper, and compression, as I think I mentioned in an earlier post. I also pulled the rockers and laid a straight edge across the valve tips, and they are the same height. They all touched, and I could not get even a .001" feeler gauge under the straight edge on the #6 intake.

After a few friends talked me off the ledge on pulling the whole valvetrain and redoing it, I think I'll just wiggle all the pushrods really good at TDC, and reverify cold lash. My gut tells me that if I had set more than one up on the ledge like this, more than one would have thrown. Of Course if that had happened, I WOULD be ripping into the whole set up and redoing everything. I checked all the valves ont he passenger side since the cover was already off. So I'll pull the driver side and do the same.

I know I'm rambling a bit, but I'm really ticked at myself for skipping a critical step that I never normally skip. How I've always done it: I set up the valves, do four rotations, recheck everything. Run it idling to warm, and on cool down, I re-re-check everything. Had I done that, I would have found it and avoided another week being down. But I let myself get distracted by the last minute stuff (like the fuel rail), and the excitement of getting to drive it prevent me from doing things properly, and I know better.

One additional thing, I really didn't like my cranking compression numbers, but I found the O ring on my checker was nicked. So I'm thinking to recheck my compression with a new o ring. I feel like 190 is low for this build's compression. Even though DCR is 8.7, I was thinking over 200 for sure. My 346 with 145K on it, when I first put the 220's on, it tested 205-210 on all cylinders (It was remarkably consistent for what I'm used to on compression tests). So I feel like I should at the very least be there.

Ok, I'm done for now. With out any more dumb mistakes, Should get some road data tomorrow.

 

Interesting on the Compression values...im curious bout that as well. We just checkd my buddies sbc s10 last night. 150-170. Its defly a very tired SR sbc. I believe it was a trailer queen that was built in the 90s.

 

.its probably lower compression for the boost

 

Bortous- Tooley really is a vette guy. He done owned i know vettes. Im go say that LS7 cam hauls ***. One of his LS3 cams is featured my Cookbook thread on a 416ci with untouched LS3 heads... not many LS3 aftermarket camshafts are going that fast. Its alot of 400 plus cube motors stuck in ghe 11s ( slow) for stroker terms.

 

So, good news, then more pissing int he wind, then good news, then really scary, then great news!

Pushrod did arrive yesterday. I got if off the doorstep this morning, brought it into the garage, and waited an hour ro so to let it come to temperature with the rest of the garage. Installed it. Set lash, rotated engine over four times, set lash, rotated four times, set lash. now I'm paranoid, can you tell? Also, I found that my compression tester sealing o ring was nicked, so I retested compression on #6 - the one that threw the rod. 230 psi. So, No WAY a valve was tagged. All good!

Well, then I reassembled the rest of the car, and one of the build your own MSD wires pulled through the boot, so I fought getting the boot on (again), and the nickel core came unwound. I'm so effing DONE with those stupid things. But then I'm sitting there looking at the damned broke wire and thinking now I'm down another week. Grabbed all my old firecore wires, and picked the longest one. It's almost banjo tight, but it allowed me to get energy from coil to plug, so I'm happy.

Started car. Full warm up and cool down. Took vids. All the yay, right? So I sent vids to the friends, high-fived over the phone, etc... Then I shut it down, and it wouldn't restart. Figured out it's just still rich at idle by looking at plugs, so I took some fuel out of cranking VE and the idle columns. Good to go. Next cold start, cranks right up. Very happy. Motor sounds smoother. Definitely on the right track here.

Go up front to listen to the valve train, and I'm hearing that same damned noise, just not as loud. So I kill it, before I kill it. Shout out to HioSSilver for talking me off a ledge. If he hadn't told me how much smoother it sounds, I'd have gone into convulsions. Took the rocker cover off, and everything was fine. Hot lash is more than I calculated though. By a good bit. So at this point, I think I'm done trying to outsmart the parts. I was wanting to run .002 lash to get faster off the seat, but now I'm thinking to just run zero lash like the parts are designed for.

So right now, I'm just waiting for the engine to cool down so i can set lash again, but I'm past all my fears, so should be able to finally get some seat time in. Roller coaster today, though, and very glad it's over and to be past all the scary stuff.

 

I think it's a great idea to run zero lash as camshaft is designed and should run quieter.
Also is anybody else having trouble getting these videos to work on a mobile phone?

 

I ended up pulling the covers 2 more times and finally it is stable. Idles at 80 kpa lmao. And 20 g/sec idle air. Going to be regarded

 

Isnt that stock?

 

As far as those who don't know, know, why yes it is!

 

Lol. Darth-Stock

 

Mine idles around 74-75kpa with 30 deg overlap. 80 is nasty

 

with aluminum block I set my lash at zero cold. Once its warmed up its at .013

 

what would iron block change? My dart shp block, I set .002 cold

 

It would stay .002 hot

 

Oh hey, I haven't posted in a while.

80kPa... is that cold? Or when it warms up?

I had 70kPa in my original Heads/Cam LS1. It didn't love traffic with the A/C on... lol

 

so iron doesn't change at all.like aluminum blocks?

 

Iron does change but much less than aluminium.

 

That was warming up. It might drop to 75 warmed up. Really to bring it down I will need to speed up idle some. Not sure yet which way to go. Needs so much idle air I might have to drill a bigger hole in the blade. IAC counts are over 120 at 150 degree coolant.