Mickey -- wanted to post up, the sniper covers step in. They do the job well, they're just so crazy tall.

 

Thanx for letting me know. Ill buy some due to the covers im using i had to drill and tap to fix coil brackets to it.

 

They have the Ls1 bracket mounts built in

 

Heater hose delete looks like it made enough space, which is great news. Got the make your own wires, so I don't have to wait for those to come in. So I think I have everything I need to at least start the car.

 

Awesome. The wires are pretty easy to make so that shouldn't take much time. Once you do one anyway

 

I used a touch of oil to get the boots to slide on. Made life easy

 

My camaro just roasted another set of factory ls1 coils a few days ago. It started breaking up before hitting 6500rpm which is worse than the previous coils that went bad. I swapped on another set of coils and it was all good again.
I have figured out that the rear two coils on each side of the engine get cooked versus the front two coils on a 4th gen, because of how our cowl and windscreen/dash hangs over the back of the engine, the heat can't escape upwards as easy like on other cars that have a steel hood on top of all 8 cylinders, like our aussie Holdens/04-06 GTO do for example.

And also I noticed the engine fans blow air over the front two coils a lot more, and it keeps them cooler.
Also I think my proform tall covers made it even worse, they feel like they get hotter than the stock covers did for some reason which is backwards (you'd think taller would stay cooler) but maybe they are a thinner aluminum.

I'm looking at coil relocation brackets right now.. i'm going to mount them at the front where the battery was and other side same location. It will also look a heap better and unclutter the engine.
Just a heads up, you might want to think about moving them for the future so your coils stay cooler. It's just dumb having them baking on top of hot oil like they are, after doing some more research on coils and finding out heat kills them.

Also lack of supply voltage or bad earths can kill them prematurely and the more rpm and cylinder pressure you have the more they need a proper 12 volt supply so I've spent a day wiring thicker gauge wire into the coil positive and earths and run each pair of coils through a 40A relay direct to battery power. The stock wiring leaves a lot to be desired for a performance application.

So I've fixed that flaw, and I now decided to relocate the coils also because near $500 here for a set of 8 genuine ac delco coils (and I don't want to gamble with chinese coils) so I'd rather spend the money elsewhere than continue to bake expensive coils over the hot valvetrain oil. And i want the car perfect before i go bolting in my better engine. All the secondhand LS1/2/3 coils including trucks are getting old and finding cheap used low mile sets is more difficult so kind of being forced to buy new coils.

Pic below just for internet dick measuring contests and to disprove any naysayers because you never know with the internet these days. I have to keep these 28x14.5 Hoosier QTP's honest and wear them down before they go stale. But anyway most of my occasional too long posts and the info I post up is to help out my fellow LS people.

 

What wires did you end up going with Darth? And still using br7ef plugs? We are gunna dyno my car with the BR7s, TR6s, and TR55s. Im running msd 8.5mm diy wires n factory truck coils

 

Darth~ I've flipped flopper here threw this thread. Its a great build and a great thread .

You car should run 9s with ease depending on the raceweight of the car. The problem i see you may have is traction. Stroker Combos with 6 speeds really hit the tires hard as hell. You'll more than likely will be spinning the rim inside the tire unless you get some beadlocks or screws for your wheels.

 

Is the LT1 front end that much different from an LS in regards to heat and airflow? Thousands of other 4th gens making more power with stock coils that never die.

 

Launch, you have the same issue with heat and the IGN1A coils? I havent' had any issue with them yet. I did also upgrade my grounds. I probably should have spent some time going over this with the build thread. I've chased enough ground issues in my LS10 and Ghost Hawk that I've finally figured out what to do. On the S10, I ended up running a 4-gauge wire from cab to frame, from engine to frame, and from frame to battery. I was getting 10 volts on my dash, and the blinker would cause the volts, temperature gauge, fuel gauge, everything to move as the blinker blinked. It was bad. A lot of GM grounding is counting on bolts to carry the load. Over time, as bolts rust, the conductance drops, and you start chasing ground issues. This is chassis type stuff.

On Ghost Hawk, I extended my grounds to the front of the heads so I could access them better. I used #6 wire for each head. The heads ground to the block through the head bolts and head gaskets. I'm considering adding some straps to bond the heads to the block. I've also bonded the alternator body to the block and frame with a ground strap. Seems like overkill, but got rid of a lot of weird gremlins and seems to have prevented others. I run a lithium 880 amp battery, which is the first one i've had since owning the car that reliably kept up with the load. Seems odd to me, but I've gone through so many damned batteries, and that antigravity ATX I'm running now is hands down the best. 12.7 volts key on engine off, car starts easily, 14.7 volts and constant output charging.

Please let me know if you had the heat issue with the IGN1A coils. I mounted them with some space betweent he valve covers and then coils to allow some airflow. these coils have heatsinks built in also. but if it's going to be a problem, now is the time to fix it. Very helpfulpost, and I appreciate you taking the time to go into the detail on it.
MSD 8.5mm wires, BR7 plugs. i'm not bothering with TR6. Def not TR55. I needed TR6 on my 346 build with 11.5 compression. Some of that might have been AZ heat, and some 91 octane, but either way, I figured this build needed a colder plug at 12.7 compression.
Thanks, Tusky! I do have beadlocks on my rears. I agree I have a traction issue. I'm running a 26"x11.5"x15" tire. Which is a good amount of tire, but likely getting overpowered like you said. My chassis likely needs work also. I run road race shocks, but I found they do better than the vikings by far. I don't squat near as bad. Raceweight was 3460 last time I took it. that was me in it and 3/4 full tank.

 

I don't run IGN1A coils but no matter which type of coils you have after a decent drive and few minutes after shut down i found the rear coils under the cowl are absolutely baking, touch one and see for yourself. New coils will have a decent life span for sure even getting so heated by the valve covers but after seeing just how hot they get on top of my proform covers (and I also have them mounted high with a good air gap) i don't want to run them like that any longer. It was a suggestion because you need new wires I think it be smart to relocate them off the valve covers. Effort versus gain I think it's worth it. Coil relocation brackets are under $100, and the long universal wires are not much more than the new 12" wires (minimum) you will need. The coils require less current and are much happier running cooler if not even spark better. If it's a 1/4 mile only car it's definitely not worth moving them.

 

I really appreciate the info. I've had a few others suggest I relocate while they're out. You've got me thinking...

 

Darth~ why not go with a 28" tire?

I personally think you'll never get a good 60ft out the combo with a 26" tire. Not trying to be harsh but you not running a automatic and a 5.3 bro.

The FASTER n/a cars with 6 speeds are rocking 28" tires stiff walls.

 

You're not wrong, nor are you being harsh. I know I need more tire. I'll see what happens with these, because I have them and they're on the car. Need to roll the fenders to fit the larger tires. i'd love to run those 28 x 14's launch is running....

 

That thing will destroy the 26's, especially with a stick......I was destroying 27.5" on the street from a dig. Would be a different story if you were an auto.

 

With proper suspension tuning the 26s will work fine. He doesnt have the inertia of the typical 60 pound clutch either. His car is a blast to drive. I cant wait to sit behind the wheel again. This is coming from a guy who refuses to drive other peoples cars too (long story and costly lol)

 

What do you consider a good 60' on a street car?

 

LMFAO!!!!

Actually, Lazer once told me my car was a Cadillac as far as hotrods go. One reason why I try to keep myself in check. I don't want to make myself hate the car.

 

Its a stick with 700+hp. It IS different than an auto car that's soft down low. If it was a drag car and class racing, sure a 26 can get the job done. Its a waste of time to fight the 26's to get traction on a true street car when a taller tire will work easier. It's not like the car is going to lose a ton of ET because of the bigger tire. He's already said its not max effort so a tenth means exactly nothing.